Quantcast
Channel: CupCakes and CrabLegs
Viewing all 317 articles
Browse latest View live
↧

Taking a Bite Out of Guatemala

March 9, 2015, 7:54 pm
$
0
0

I came to Guatemala for one reason ...to eat. 

I asked a dozen people who had been to Guatemala what to eat when I was here. Most confessed little or no memory of the food. Tourists come for the spectacular textile market in Chichicastenango and Lake Atitlan, the most beautiful lake in the world. They don't come to eat.

For the past two weeks, I've been looking for reasons to love Guatemala's food. I didn’t have to search too hard. There’s so much good food here and I’ve just scratched the surface.

Here’s 15 reasons why you're going to love it, too.

Buen Apetito!

1) My new food addiction: Buñuelos. 

Once you've had a Buñuelo, fried Guatemalan sweet bread served with a warm, sugary syrup, you'll never forget Guatemalan food.

The consistency of Buñuelos reminds me of one of my favorite foods, popovers.

These sweet treats are from a street vendor outside La Merced Church, 1 Calle Poniente and 6 Av. Norte 5Q. 

2) Food Cravings

From a hot dog (called shuco dogs) to Texas BBQ, you can find any type of cuisine in Antigua. In fact, according to Trip Advisor, there are 232+ restaurants in Antigua.

This local sandwich comes from La Parrilla, 4 Calle Poniente #5. It's made with Salchicha (the hot dog), chorizo, longaniza (the white sausage) and salami and is served with guacamole, mayo, boiled cabbage and mustard. Like the Chicago dog, they have the good sense not to add ketchup. With an ice-cold Cerveza Modelo Especial, this lunch will run you 40Q. 10Q just for the sandwich.

This pulled pork sandwich with cole slaw (is this Texas or Carolina?) is piled high at Pappy's BBQ, 6a Calle Poniente #21. 62Q. The Friday special is a board of ribs for 75Q. Both are home-sweet-home good.

I've also had BBQ ribs at the picturesque Meson Panza Verde, 5th Ave S #19. The Asian Pork Ribs were made with Ginger, Star Anise and Soy Sauce and were served with a mound of whipped sweet potatoes.155Q.


Beignets almost as good as Café du Monde? You’ll find them at Epicure Restaurant, 3a Avenida Norte 11B. 5Q. They also have made- to-order deli sandwiches with pastrami or corned beef for 25Q.

I never imagined that Antigua's menus would be so diverse. 

3) Need a restaurant recommendation?

After three impressive meals at Bistrot Cirq 5, I had so much confidence in Chef Mario Godinez’s taste buds that I asked him where else I should go to eat.

He sent me to a Japanese restaurant called Orgami Organic and Oriental at 6a Calle Oriente #6.

This rib bowl was 65Q and a tasty treat for anyone craving healthy, Japanese food.
Miwa is from a family of chefs back in Tokyo and definitely has that magic touch when it comes to preparing dishes to write home about.

4) The Mexican food you know and love?

Never mind that a Mexican Taco = a Guatemalan Taco that's rolled and looks like a Flauta or that a Mexican Tostada = a Guatemalan Enchilada.

Forget Mexican food while you're here and embrace everything that is Guatemala. You'll be glad you did.

We've had one disappointing meal in the past two week. Not bad considering we eat out every day. I will not mention the Mexican restaurant but even the Margarita lacked one essential ingredient...tequila.

Traditional-modern Guatemalan food is served at Los Tres Tiempos, 5 Avenida Norte 31, just under the Santa Catalina Arch. 

They have a stunning rooftop patio and pay close attention to the artistic presentation of the food. 

Try the Tamalitos Montados, Q 39 or the Guatemalan version of Carnitas, under 100Q with a beverage.

The clientele that day was primarily Guatemalan which tells you that the kitchen is doing something right.

5) Haute cuisine


All of this pre-trip research didn't lend a clue to the fact that Antigua has so many French restaurants.
                                             
The master of them all isChef Mario Godinezof Bistrot Cirq 5, 4a Calle Oriente #7, who did it again with his take on Arrachera smothered in miniature, french-fried onion rings. 175Q.

Earlier in the week, we tried his version of Steak Frites which were à la perfection. 145Q.

Going for dessert? How about petite Profiteroles with caramel ice cream and an ample fix of hot fudge. 45Q

I would eat at Bistrot Cirq 5 every day if I could because French just doesn't get any better than this.

6) Got to love a city that has just one…

 Food Blogger that is, so I went to the source, Rudi Girón. 

Since 2006, La Antigua Guatemala Daily Photo blog documentary has been using photographs and narratives to illustrate everyday life in Guatemala and includes a very detailed section on the local cuisine. He's a walking, talking authority on all things Antigua and conducts the ever popular Antigua Photo Walk, which is rated #6 of 105 things to do in Antigua on Trip Advisor. 

antiguadailyphoto.com

7) Organic Options

Caoba Farms:

At 5a Ave Final Sur, this farm supplies many of the restaurants in Guatemala with just-picked, organic produce. 


A fairly new Farmers Market is held once a month. We enjoyed this one March 7th, which included a walk of the splendid grounds.

caobafarms.com

EarthLodge:

This mountain lodge and avocado farm is located just outside Antigua.

Want a breathtaking view? Overnight in one of their tree houses. With a private bathroom and that all important hot shower, it runs 280Q. 
Earthlodgeguatemala.com

Restaurant Cerro San Cristobal 

This restaurant is perched on the hill in San Cristobal El Alto, a 15 minute shuttle ride from Nim Po't Centro de Textiles Tradicionales at 5a Avenida Norte 29 in Antigua.

It has a small organic farm so handpicked vegetables are along for the ride on the shuttle back to town.

Don't be in a hurry; the shuttle runs whenever and is often over packed buts it's worth a visit just for the views.

Their orchid greenhouse has 2,000 + orchids so something is always in bloom.

8) The best local eats…

are on the streets but you don't have to hike all over town to find them. Just go outside many of Guatemala's churches. 


These street vendors, at La Merced Church, 1 Calle Poniente and 6 Av. Norte, were dishing out some of Guatemala's most beloved classics.

Also visit Iglesia El Calvario, Alameda el Calvario final,where the Buñuelo vendor is reported to be the best in Antigua. 

9) Fried Chicken

From the markets in Chichicastenango and Antigua to Pollo Camero, the local brand of your grandmother's best, this part of the world loves fried Chicken too.

Pollo Camero is at 5a Avenida just 4 doors down from Central Park going towards the arch. Fries, a chicken breast and leg and a drink is 43Q. 15Q for a breast. Ask for extra crispy.

10) Food Truck: Shtilero Antigua

We lunched at this wildly popular food truck and like most food trucks, it has ridiculously good food.

I'm not a huge fan of meatballs but we loved theirs. The sandwich was easy to eat; not overloaded with either meat or sauce. Their secret? Like any great sandwich, it’s all in the bread. 

Check out their Facebook page for an exact location before you go.

11) Exotic Ice Cream

Sobremesa owner Alex Ferrar was described to me as wonderfully funny and a bit crazy in a good way. How about a genius?

He's the mastermind behind Exotic Ice Cream, located on 4 Ave between 3rd and 4th street. 20Q.

Mono Bolo? Translated, that’s Drunken Monkey; a delicious blend made with Macadamia nuts, white chocolate and of course tequila. It was sensational. 

Another mixture was simply called Breakfast: Coffee, maple and bacon. 

They were getting ready to do a photo shoot for the New York Times when I was there.

If you don’t know, now you do…Exotic Ice Cream rules.

Drinking Guatemala…

12) Guatemala’s Coffee 

Guatemalan coffee is some of the best in the world.

It's full bodied, more so than other Central American coffees, and has a flavor that has been described as both spicy and rich. I would also add that it has heavy notes of Chocolate. No wonder I like it so much.

This cup of cafe con leche is from El Sol Café in the Central Jardin. 16Q.

You’ll meet a lot of locals at El Sol Café after you've sunk in to the pace of a city or you can compare food notes with globe-trotters from around the world. In particular, a large number of Europeans visit Guatemala each year.


One thing for sure…both the natives and tourists are really friendly here and you’ll meet people of all ages and nationalities.

13) Wine

The good news: Wine is imported, mainly from South America. The bad news: Don’t expect Guatemalan prices for a high-quality glass.

These restaurants have some of my favorite wines to pair with food and will not break your travel budget:

Hector’s Bistro, 1st Calle Poniente, has a nice Viura InfinitusSpanish Chardonnay for 45Q a glass to go with their magnificent open faced beef tenderloin sandwich. 85Q.

At Bistrot Cirq 5, 4a Calle Oriente #7, indulge in a glass of Rio Claro Chardonnay from Chile for 50Q or head for Meson Panza Verde, 5th Ave S #19 and try a glass of Adobe Reserva Chardonnay D.O. Valle de Casablanca 2013. 65Q a glass. 225 for the bottle.

Tartines, 4 calle Oriente #1C, also serves a good red, a 2013 Chilean D.O. Valle Central Misiones Drengo Carmenere, for 40Q a glass. They have nice views from their rooftop so go for sunset and try their pepper steak. A lot of fresh pepper and a few tablespoons of sauce would have been perfect to flavor this steak so ask for the sauce on the side. 165Q.

14) Rum: Ron Zacapa

If you came to Guatemala to drink good quality rum, you’re in luck.

Fantastically smooth Ron Zacapa was the first rum to be included in the International Rum Festival's Hall of Fame. 

The House Above The Clouds is Ron Zacapa's aging facility located in the highlands of Quetzaltenango, 7544 feet above sea level. 

Just like aging Sherry, they use the Solera method to achieve its tantalizing flavor and perfect balance. 

This high-end version runs $160 US per bottle.

A taste can be purchased (100Q) at the charming, little wine bar called Tabacos Y Vinos, 5a Avenida Norte No 28 B, Calle Arco.

Ron Zacapa will get you on the first sip and you're not likely to forget Guatemala's distinctive drink profile ever. The taste is remarkably intense with peaks of brown sugar, oak, toffee, cedar and tobacco. 

15) Guatemala's National Beer: Gallo

I know beer is a great thirst quencher when drinking the water is not an option but beer for breakfast?

Then I remembered my #1 Traveler's Rule: when you're on vacation you can have anything you want for breakfast...even a beer. 20Q
↧
Search

Eat Your Way Around The World and Never Leave San Miguel

March 30, 2015, 3:36 pm
$
0
0
There will always be controversy when it comes to food. A recent article, published by The Independent out of the UK, suggests that San Miguel is emerging as the new culinary capital of Mexico. 

While friends in DF agonize at the mention of it, they also grudgingly acknowledge San Miguel's growing influence in Mexico's culinary scene.

I made an observation after a recent trip to Guatemala; there is a level of sophistication in the culinary scene here in SMA. Not just on the strength of the restaurants, chefs and their menus but also in the availability of quality ingredients, artisan stores to buy them, and a developing wine and cocktail culture. Add into that mix the number of visiting chefs like Lee Dubberman from Ariel’s Restaurantwho cooked at Provecho this winter and you've got a culinary capital in the making. 

Certainly this level of refinement has been brewing for some time and has taken an enormous leap forward in the two years I have been here. 

Are we there yet? One thing is for sure… you can eat your way around the world and never leave San Miguel.

Granted, if you want to eat out African, British, Caribbean, Eastern European, Irish, Korean, Middle Eastern, Vietnamese 

or really authentic Greektown-Chicago-style food right now, you'll have to cook it yourself but sourcing ingredients has gotten a lot easier and there isn't too much you can't find in San Miguel or Querétaro to show off your culinary skills. 

You can patronize your old standbys like 

Hecho en Mexico (Ancho de San Antonio # 8), Los Milagros (Calle Reloj #17),CaféBuen Dia (Callejon del Pueblito #3), Tacos Don Felix En La Casa (15thFray Juan de San Miguel St/Col. San Rafael), Cafe Monet (Zacateros #83), Mama Mia (Umaran #81) or La Parroquia (Jesus #11) and get a good meal, but if your palate is far more adventurous, here are the restaurants that will transport you to anywhere in the world...and you don't have to bring your passport.

We’ve written about all of them this past year so I’ll leave you with these mouth-watering photographs to remind you that San Miguel’s culinary profile has come this far.

Buen Apetito!

American:

Lavanda, Dr Ignacio Hernandez Macias 87


Hansens, Calzada de la Aurora #12

Argentinean:


Buenos Aires Bistro, Mesones #62

Asian:


Sweet Water Catering, Saturday Organic Market 

Bakery:


Panaderia El Maple, Salida a Celaya #53


Panaderia La Buena Vida, Hernandez Macias #72, Int. 5


La Mesa Grande, Zacateros 49

BBQ:


Diablo Panzon, Salida a Celaya #94

Cajun/Creole:


Hank's New Orleans Café and Oyster Bar, Calle Miguel Hidalgo #12

Canadian:


Santos Crudoteca, Del Los Suspiros #7

Contemporary:


The Restaurant, Solano #16

Continental:


Paprika Restaurante San Miguel de Allende, Ancha de San Antonio #7

Danish:


Café Oso Azul, Zacateros 17

Dessert:


Petit 4, Mesones 99

Eclectic:


Provecho, Ancha de San Antonio #10A

European:


Restaurante 1826, Calle Nemesio Diez #11

French:


Chamonix, Sollano #17

German:


Berlin Bar and Bistro, Umaran #19

Global:


La Mezcaleria, Correo #47-A

Indian:


Bhaji, Cuadrante #34

International:


Aperi, Quebrada 101


Nirvana Restaurant and Retreat, Camino Del Cortijo a Montecillo de Nieto, Antigua Via Del Ffcc 21-2 El Cortijo

Italian:


Bacco, Hernandez Macias #59


Cent’anni, Canal #34


Cafe Firenze, Recreo #13

Japanese:


Delica Mitsu San Miguel de Allende, Calzada de laLuz #49, Col. Guadalupe

Lebanese:


Fenicia, Zacateros #73

Mediterranean:


Cumpanio, Correo #29

Mexican:


La Posidita, Cuna de Allende #13


Moxi Restaurant, Hotel Matilda, Aldama #53


Muro, Loreto 10B


Don Lupe Mexican Grill, Pila Seca 34-B

Oaxacan:


Salsabor Prehispanc Delicatessen, Antonio Plaza 21-A, Col. Guadalupe

Pan Asian:


Chao Ban, Pila Seca #16

Peruvian:


La Parada, Recreo 94

Pizza:


Casa Chiquita, Correo 45

Seafood:


La Sirena Gorda, Calle Barranca y Huertas

Southern:


Cafe Mesones, Mesones #74

Tapas:


Tapas San Miguel, Umaran #36


Luna Rooftop Tapas Bar, Nemesio Diez #11


La Azotea, Umaran #6

Thai:


Orquidea Comida Thai, Zacateros #83

Uruguay:


Tannat Cocina Con Caracter, Ancha de San Antonio #67

Vegetarian:



Via Organica, Margarito Ledesma #2
↧
↧

First Stop: Antigua, Guatemala

April 5, 2015, 7:45 pm
$
0
0
If you don't love the food in Antigua, you've been eating in the wrong places. 

There's show offs in every crowd. Here they are and they have plenty of reasons to be bragging.

1.The Jewel: saberico
6a Av Sur #7

If you're in the mood for a healthy fix, this is the place to go.

It's a bakery, a chocolate shop and restaurant neatly packaged and perfect for organic and vegetarian enthusiast who can't find these choices any other place in town.

Included on the menu are a wide-variety of options for healthy street foods, licuados and smoothies like this detoxifying pineapple and celery one made with yogurt. 28Q.

I fell in love with the secret garden in back. It’s so unearthly, you'll find yourself hanging around a lot longer than your schedule allows. Throw away that itinerary and stay for awhile because saberico happens to be one of the most casually, beautiful restaurants anywhere. 

2. The Feast: Sobramesa
4 C Oriente No.4 

This restaurant has one of the most creative menus in town.

From one of the most inviting French Onion soups; the Carpaccio, thinly sliced beef tenderloin with lemon, olive oil, capers, purple onions, Parmesan and a scoop of Parmesan ice cream with toasted pine nuts to the Blackberry Chipotle Beef Tenderloin rubbed with cardamom, cinnamon, cacao and other spices in a mildly spicy blackberry and chipotle reduction and the Jalapeño Banana-Chicken breast made with cream of jalapeño and fried bananas, this is one restaurant that lives up to the hype.

The secret blackberry sauce remains just that. Owner, Alexander Ferra,knows he's got a pot of gold if he decides to bottle and sell it. I, for one, would order a case if I could just figure out how to get it back home.

3. A Slice of Heaven: Tenedor del Cerro

What's not to love when you get magnificent, inexpensive food with views to die for? This is a place you can reach out and almost touch the clouds. Also, as a personal touch, they place a flag from your home country on your table.


This restaurant is owned by Casa Santo Domingo, 3 Calle Oriente #28, a former monastery turned hotel which is a wonder in its own right. Check out the museum-quality artifacts just for starters.

Executive Chef Mario Enrique Campollo uses imagination while crafting dishes that express local influences.

I experienced these two notable dishes when I ate there which included fabulous Guatemalan coffee and fresh-squeezed juice.

Huevos Fritos de la Abuelita
Fried eggs (more like poached) served with onion, tomato and Worcestershire sauce with black beans and a caramelized banana. 55Q

Huevos Crujientes
Fried egg over a crispy tortilla covered with refried black beans, cobanero chili red pepper and tomato sauce, avocado and cotija cheese. 65Q

The hotel provides a free shuttle up the hill to the restaurant and allows you to catch some of the best views in Antigua.

This restaurant was one of the highlights of my trip. Don’t miss it.

4. Authentic Brittany: Le Petit Saint Malo
5ta Calle Poniente #3

This crepe was filled with exquisite lemon and was an amazing dessert. In fact, it was so good, I came back the next day for another fix.

I despise buckwheat and was prepared not to like the Galette filled with ham, Emmental cheese and an egg. I was actually astonished at how good it was and the flavor was not nearly as strong as I expected. The buckwheat is so high in fiber it fills you up quickly. It's almost impossible to finish. I only ate half so you can easily split this lunch for 27Q each.

If you wish you were in Brittany, ask for an extra egg.

5. Get Your Irish Up: Reilly's Irish Tavern
6a Ave Norte 2

If you happen to be Irish like I am and in Antigua on St. Patrick’s Day, Reilly's is the place to celebrate with the all the local Irish and the locals who just think they are. We all know there's little difference between the two on St. Patrick’s Day.

In keeping with the travelers #1 rule that you can have anything you want for breakfast when you're on vacation, I made mine a Guinness. 

6. Home Away From Home: Hectors Bistro
1a Calle Poniente

With 6 tables, we were amazed that the staff could dish out so much great food from its teeny-tiny kitchen because the place was always full. They certainly have the dance down to a science.

We loved this place. The staff was friendly and this was one spot where we met people from all over the world.

I had a great lunch one day with two women from Kansas City. I had but ultimately lost their email address so if they read this, please reconnect.

It proved to be ideal at the end of the day for a glass of wine or an early dinner.

The open-faced beef sandwich was something to write home about at 85Q. This was one of the best and least expensive meals we had in Antigua. 

The menu was small but they changed up their specials every day so there was always something new to try.

7. The French Kiss: Bistrot Cinq
4a Calle Oriente #7

Sometimes your body just knows it's time to have a salad. 

This wedge, prepared by Chef Mario Godinezof Bistrot Cinq, looked pretty ordinary but what a surprise when I took the first bite. The dressing was his special apple medley infusion and totally made the salad.80Q. 

Ask for more bacon. One can never have too much bacon.

8. The Pioneer: Shtilero Food Truck

This food truck has the corner on authentic eats. 

Round two… it was breakfast for lunch; chicken, egg, bacon and pesto piled on a soft loaf of perfectly fresh-baked bread from Isopanwho has a busy retail outlet at 3ra Calle Poniente #35.

Check out their Facebook page for a location before you go.

On Guatemalan food …

If Guatemala has a national dish, it isPepián. Pepián is a thick meat and vegetable stew, that’s served both on the street and in fine dining restaurants. In fact, there are endless varieties of stews in Guatemala including Gallo en Chicha, a Rooster stew; Subanik, a stew in a spicy sauce; Estofado, a beef, potato and carrot stew; Revocado, a tomato based stew with spices and the underbelly of the cow; Jacon, chicken stewed in a green sauce along with Pollo Guisado, a Spanish chicken stew, just to name a few.


I found some of the dishes to be bland but others were wonderfully flavorful and even somewhat spicy.

Charcoal-grilled meats are also very popular, especially on the street, as well as many  types of tamales and chili rellenos.

Like arepas in South America and gorditas in Mexico, Guatemalan pupusas are made of corn. Pupusas don’t have a filling but I have a soft spot for pupusas overstuffed with cheese.

Guatemala also has a variety of enjoyable tropical fruits like plantains, papayas, pineapples, mangoes, and watermelons. You’ll also find carambola; star fruit to use instead of pineapple in an upside-down cake and guanabana, which makes remarkable fruit smoothies.

Radishes are a tradition and Chojín, a radish salad served as appetizer or side dish, can also be smothered on just about anything on the menu.

$$$

Don’t expect the food in Antigua to be inexpensive. I spent twice as much as I planned to and I always budget a hefty sum for eating when I travel.

For inexpensive food, try one of the dozens of vendors in front of churches like La Merced, who have a wide-variety of street foods to offer.


Remember to be smart when eating street food. Freshly cooked is better than food that’s been sitting around and go to the stand that’s filled with the locals. 


Go outside your comfort zone…

Try zip lining, waterfall rappelling, climbing volcanoes or jumping off 8 foot balconies into the most beautiful lake in the world.

The adventures are here for the wonder you don’t want to miss any of them.

Take in the Color…



Paint a picture of Guatemala and it will be colorful for sure.

Go to Chichicastenangofor all of its intensity and embellishments. The market is a complex balance of colors, textiles, dialects, indigenous dress, and wonderful aromas.

Buy authentic boots and a bag from Coleccion Luna (http://www.coleccionluna.com) to take the magic back home with you. One thing I’ve noticed. When I wear these everyone looks at them with boot envy.

Go to Nim Po't, 5a Avenida Norte, home of the world’s largest retail Maya textiles collection. It’s a second hand store like no other and well worth exploring.

Take a ride on the chicken bus…and a tuk-tuk

These are what I call a JOY ride!

You’ll be hanging on for your life, wedged between welcoming strangers who are chatting in unknown dialects. The entire time, you’ll be wondering if you’ll ever make it off the bus. The adventure is rich and always good for more than a few laughs.

Just like Asia, you can also hail a tuk-tuk, a motorized version of the traditional pulled rickshaw, which is one of the more inexpensive ways to get around. I found a driver I liked the first day and was good to go for the month.

It’s all about the music…

You’ll hear bachata, punta, tropical salsa, meringue, hip hop, reggae and mariachi but it’s really all about Marimba, the traditional music of Guatemala.

Marimba is community music-making and just about anyone can sound somewhat seasoned with about 30 minutes of practice.

The mischief maker you just have to love…

Something within us loves a bit of mischief andMaximón, one of Guatemala’s most popular Mayan folk saints, will win you over with his.

Maximon is considered an idol of vice; he takes the burden off his followers' vices by making them his own.

Some say he is the incarnation of the Mayan god of sexuality; others a pre-Columbian Mayan god of the underworld.

He’s always well-dressed, offering counseling on money, business, luck, love, protection, fertility, justice, revenge, healing and spiritual cleansing in exchange for Venado rum or Quetzalteca and Payaso cigarettes. He’s also been known to sport a pair of sunglasses.

He’s adored, feared, worshiped and guarded everywhere in Guatemala and an effigy of Maximón is in the lake town of Santiago Atitlan where he is celebrated year round. 

These beautiful Mayan paintings of Maximón were done by artists Felipe Batzim Navichoc and Domingo Garcia Criado.

I’ll never see a picture ofMaximón now without smiling. In fact, I think Maximón will find a place on my Day of the Dead altar this year.

Not your typical moonshine....

                                        Heresson Noe, Graphic Artist, Guatemala City 

Serious drinkers in Guatemala love Quetzalteca and Venado, two aguardientes that will move you into another trajectory. I had a just a little sip and could immediately sense the outcome.

A mysterious beauty…the lake

The lake…a mysterious beauty that never looks the same twice.
Transportation is generally pretty easy and inexpensive with lanchas that get you from village to village around the lake. The prices are fixed for the locals but tourists generally pay more.
Travelers will be taken back at the magnificent surroundings and the landscape, with its unforgettable volcanoes and its breathtaking views.

Once you’ve been there, it’s impossible to stop thinking about. It’s one place that will remain in your mind’s eye forever.

On speaking Spanish again…

Who turned my Spanish button on?

Suddenly, I am remembering words I thought I had forgotten and I'm speaking Spanish without thinking again. That’s what immersion will do for you.

When I start dreaming about food in Spanish again, that's when I’ll know I have my mojo back. 

Until then, I’m ready to pack my bags and go on the road again. How about you?

Gracias por los recuerdos Guatemala…

Buen Apetito!



↧

Querétaro: El Bajío’s Rising Star

April 23, 2015, 12:17 pm
$
0
0

20°35′15″N 100°23′34″W. Mexico’s best kept secret. Querétaro!

With the fastest growing economy in Mexico, Querétaro is a picturesque city known for its mix of 17th and 18th century Baroque architecture and its thoroughly modern buildings. 



There is construction everywhere you look. 

Some have compared Querétaro to Alicante, Spain...minus the ocean. 



Crawl inside Querétaro and you’re likely to stay awhile. It feels just like home.

The city, known for its many jacaranda trees (street art; the buds on the street in Alamos) and green spaces, is visually one of the most appealing cities in Mexico. 

Call it a mini-Mexico City.  In fact, ask anyone who has moved here recently and many will tell you they’re from Mexico City and repositioned for a better life. Querétaro is renowned for the highest quality of life in Mexico.

The city is expected to increase in size about 35% over the next 20 years. It’s one of the safest and cleanest cities in Mexico.

Cost of living? its’ less than both Mexico City and San Miguel de Allende.

Gringos? not many so better start practicing your Spanish. 

Modern? Querétaro’s downtown is the first in all of Latin America to be wireless. 


The high speed train between Querétaro and Mexico City? Not canceled, just postponed. 

Moving here? For now, I’m just excited that a city I somewhat know and love a lot is less than an hour from my doorstep.

Querétaro: The Culinary Scene



My trip to Querétaro was an eye-opener. There are not only many fine dining restaurants offering upscale Mexican food and also wonderful cafés, cafeterias, taquerias and street eats waiting to seduce the food lover.

According to Trip Advisor, there are already 371 restaurants and Querétaro continues to add premium eating spots every day.


Walking around Mercado de la Cruz is a feast for the eyes… and nose. 


Just take a look at how fresh this seafood is. The only other place I found seafood this fresh was at the Mercado de San Juan in Mexico City.


Mercado de la Cruz also happens to be one of my favorite markets in the Bajío region because just about everyone is eager to have their picture taken.

On the Wine and Cheese route between Tequisquiapan and Querétaro, there are farms producing remarkable Mexican and European artisan cheeses. The vineyards have the ideal climate and soil for making excellent wines; all testimony to the fact that Querétaro's culinary scene is flourishing.

Try the Bodegas de Cote winery at Libramiento Norponiente km. 5+900, Ezequiel Montes, for an enjoyable day trip and some out of the ordinary wine selections.

Creating "The List" 

     Photo from Chef Edgar

The list of where to eat came together rather quickly. On the first draft were the two chefs I stayed with, Edgar and Laurent. 

When we were drafting it, I asked Laurent why a certain restaurant was not on the list and he simply replied “No love in the food.” Passion is everything when it comes to cooking. 


Among the many celebrated restaurants in France where he cooked, Veracruz native Edgar was at the renowned Le Quinzième in Paris with Michelin-starred chef Cyril Lignac. 

For those of you who don't follow French chefs, Cyril Lignac is a Michelin-starred chef and well-known television personality in France, appearing on several cooking shows including those related to travel in different French regions. He owns Le Quinzième which earned him a Michelin star in 2012. Their menu highlights French ingredients such as Landes foie gras and Brittany lobster. Photo from Wikipedia.


French born Laurent is a former Mechanical Engineer turned chef. With that broad path of engineering skills at hand, he immediately applied it to cooking with impressive results.


Together as a team they make magic in the kitchen. It was an immediate coup de foudre.


One morning, I observed them making pastry for Sucre Sale Delicatessen (Av. Universidad Oriente 42 in Centro Querétaro) and I was astonished at their technique. Why did making French pastry look so easy when I knew it wasn’t?


Their new pastry shop, La Maison Gourmande, at Felipe Luna 2 in Centro historico between 5 de Mayo y Santa Cruz Church, will be open in the next few weeks.



What is the Best and Where Can I Find It?

As for the Holy Grail of what should be consumed in Querétaro, this list was drafted by Chefs Edgar and Laurent and Ernesto and Sally of Casa Peti Bed and Breakfast. All of them have an educated taste when it comes to food.

A week was not enough time to go through the entire list but every place is worthy of a visit.  



Especiero
Independencia #64, Centro Historic

This restaurant, with a French cafe feel, is renowned for their sandwiches but it’s also one of my favorite breakfast spots.

Some of the best Chilaquiles made with strips of fried corn tortillas served with cheese, poached eggs, and chicken. Their secret? Pour the sauce over the dish at table so it never turns soggy before you hit the bottom of the bowl. 


Laurent was sweet on the Waffle with strawberries and bacon as if he was suddenly transported back to France with a single bite.

Cocono Restaurante Bar
Blvrd Bernardo Quintana 18, Calesa  



Blending old traditions with new techniques, people are singing the praises of this food establishment and I can see why. Every typical Mexican plate brings something different.


From eye-catching drinks like Lemonade with chia seeds and spearmint and the delicious Margarita Maracuy to meat platters grilled and served with a salsa of habanero and chile de árbol and a pile of requeson to cut the heat, just about everything at Cocono's will grab your attention…especially the service.


5DMayo Experimental
Calle 5 de Mayo 128


A 7-course menu with new and interesting flavors. 5-star and totally worth the spend. You'll leave this place wondering what's on the menu next weekend. Make a reservation in advance.


Elea Restaurante Griego Greek
Av. Manufactura 48-9,  Parques del Alamo, Plaza Bosques

Plenty of authentic Greek indulgences but the perfectly seasoned pork leg is just too good to pass up. 



Cardosanto
16 Circuito a Jardin Sour


Food lesson #1: When it comes to hamburgers, calories don’t count.

They don’t get any bigger or better than this one. Supersized? Try the GordoSanto, piled high with a tower of bacon or the CardoSanto, topped with everything and then an egg. 


The salmon burger is one of the best cooked a la parilla and served with cream cheese and capers. Not sharing my fries treated to a peppering of thyme and parmesan.



La Sirena Gorda
Calz. De Los Arcos 25, Jardines de Querétaro

Just like San Miguel only bigger.Legendary at both locations for their Margarita de Jengibre. 

Logan's Beer House
De Los Arcos, Jardines de Querétaro

Order the fish and chips and select from a large variety of artisan craft beers from all over the world. Come thirsty and stay late. Great views of the aqueduct.

Taberna El Quillo
Paseo de la Republica 135, Cuitláhuac

This classic tavern-restaurant has an extensive menu that's hard to narrow down but Spanish natives swear this is the most authentic ticket in town.

The chef dishes out so many impressive eats, you’ll want to start planning your next vacation in Alicante.


Alioli Gastro Bar
16 de Sept #28

There is a reason this place is often the #1 restaurant in Queretaro. The food is prepared by people who have been trained in Michelin Star restaurants in Spain.

In other words, as Laurent would say, there is so much love in this food; you wouldn’t need any other reason to come back.


Tikua Sur Este
Ignacio Allende 13

Mexican moles and pickled grasshoppers? A varied menu with an emphasis on Oaxaca, Yucatan, Chiapas, Capeche and Tabasco cooking.

Tikua is a favorite that will not disappoint even the most hard to please eater. Look for the superb recommendations for vegetarians and vegans. Sit on the patio and drink in the murals...and San Miguel's favorite beer, Dos Aves.


Cenaduria Blas
Av 5 De Mayo 125

Indulge yourself with pickled pork legs, turkey and all your favorite regional cooking. With over 50 years of history, this place has a record to maintain. Don’t leave without trying the gorditas.

El9 Restaurante Lounge Yucateco 
Blvd. Bernardo Quintana #9, Alamos 2a Secc

You would think by now I was beginning to feel a bit of overkill when it came to Chamorro. Never too much where this Chamorro al Pibil is concerned because it’s better than almost everywhere else in Querétaro.


Hacienda La Laborcilla 
Prolongación Corregidora Norte 911-Bis, Parques Residenciales

This visual stunner is like no other in the city. A renovated hacienda, you’ll want to come here for the architecture but the food, wine and service are superb draws as well.
Fine cuts of meat and a great wine list make this worthy of a repeat. 


Maria y Su Bici
Calle 5 de Mayo 91, Centro

Go for genuine Oaxaca and grab an order of the Tacos de Chapulines with a glass of tasty, chili-dusted margaritas.

This rather touristy restaurant has some of the most extraordinary decor around so bring your camera.

Love thy neighbor as the communal tables give you a chance to get to know everyone in the place before you finish your dessert.

Cafe Breton
Andador Libertad #82

The owner is from Bretagne and the food is dependably French. A great breakfast and lunch so you pick.

My philosophy? You can never get your fill of French food so go again tomorrow.


Restaurante Orange
Meson Santa Rosa Hotel
Calle Luis Pasteur Sur 17, Centro Historico

The see-and-be-seen spot for coffee or a drink. Best to dress like Angelica Rivera. Not the most warm and cozy owners but a charming site to watch the beautiful people of Querétaro walk by.


San Miguelito
Andador 5 de Mayo 39, Centro Historico

Owned by the brother-in-law of Claudia, SMA’s beloved pie professional, you’ve got to go for a drink and an appetizer (the beef carpaccio) at this visual tour de force. 

Pure fiesta décor that’s tiled inside and out. Stunning, one-of-a-kind table place settings you’ll want to gather up and take home with you. Too bad you don’t have seating for 200+


Mariposa
Calle Angela Peralta 7, Centro Historico

Enchiladas verdes con pollo and a homemade milkshake for breakfast? Let’s get a little adventurous because this place is a slice of Mexico… 50 years ago.

One of the oldest and most traditional restaurants in the city is always full to capacity but the sweets make it totally worth the wait.


Calufe 
5de Mayo 99A 

This petite coffee house serves high-quality brew from Veracruz. Ask them to open a bin and soak in the aroma of the beans.

Drink up and savor the history. I got excited just thinking the beans were picked by worn hands and voyaged all the way across Mexico to end up in my cup. A daily indulgence.

Bar Alquimia
5 de Mayo 71, Centro

Just one block from Plaza de Armas, this attractive, little cantina-style bar caught my eye and it was love at first sight. Get there early or you are likely to spend the night standing. Great place to meet locals who will end up being your BFF’s by the end of the night. Open from 18:00 to 2:30 hrs; Closed on Sundays and Mondays.


Street Eats... 


Don Chamorro
73 y 74, La cruz

When the owner pulled out a leg so I could see just how much meat is on one, I almost dove in the pot. That’s how good this dish looked.

Smother the best pork leg taco in Querétaro with onions, cilantro and pico de gallo and you’re in for a serious feast. Bring a bib and a pocketful of change.


Las Tortugas
Anda 5 De Mayo 27

Institution status? This carnita torta with its secret tomato sauce has been served by Las Tortugas for over 59 years.

Also flavoring this mouth-watering torta? Plain old mustard. I am addicted to the combination which became my breakfast for the two mornings while I was there.
This pork Sloppy Joe was more than an appetizing deal at 39 pesos each.


Tortas Nico
Calle Independencia #13

The line at this torta shop convinced me that something inspirational was coming out of the kitchen.

Try the Torta de Milanesa which was the favorite of everyone waiting to get a first bite.
A tasty, local choice, where nobody’s leaving until their number is up.


Las Gorditas del Portal 
Corregidora 15B Sur

Chalk up another one for the vegetarians. My new favorite gordita is stuffed with just two ingredients: Guacamole and Oaxaca cheese. 


There’s something in the Guacamole that makes this better than just about every other one I’ve tried…

and true to the name, I ate a bunch of them.


La Cabaña
Avenida Constituyentes 130

Best Cabrito in town? The mastermind behind the cooking has been here since 1957. 
Rivals the famous El Rey del Cabrito in Monterrey? You tell me.

This is one local specialty where you have to eat the skin, it’s that good. Go for another helping. No vegetarians allowed.


Barbacoa Santiago
Carretera Mexico-Queretaro Km. 152, San Juan del Río, QRO

This cash only place off the highway is now world-famous. Blame it on Chowzter, the gastronomy powerhouse out of London who awarded Barbacoa Santiago with the title of “best taco in the world.” Since then, it’s seen carloads of visitors hungry for both the food and the experience. BEST TACO IN THE WORLD

This pit-cooked, Mexican-style barbacoa is a flavor epiphany. Bring a $20 bill and call it the best food ritual in Querétaro. Can we go again tomorrow?

Other tasty distractions …

Sabores Boutique Gourmet
Av Universidad 33, Centro Histórico

This place is packed with things to stir up your taste buds. A routine stop on its wine tasting circuit will trigger your addiction to all of its outstanding reds.

Metzgerhaus
Juan B. Alcocer 236, Candiles, Qro.

Expect the wurst because there’s nothing better than wonderful homemade sausages made to order using old world recipes and ingredients.

Roll out the BBQ and order a barrel of anything that slightly resembles sauerkraut. Make up a batch of German potato salad, close your eyes and swear this isn’t Berlin. I’m so there.
www.metzgerhaus.mx

The Food Trucks…

Querétaro's food trucks gather once a month on Friday and Saturday to put on a not-so-ordinary feast.

Some of the best food comes from these mobile eateries; taste the burgers at La Burguesia and Bisrroka and have a bite at one a favorite of my favorite trucks, Chef on Fuego, who also spends a fair amount of time in San Miguel.

Sweet Dreams…

Instead of making this a day-trip destination or a place to shop as many people in the area do, I suggest going for a week; you’ll want to stay a lot longer.


LA CASA DE LOS CHEFS is in the Alamos section of town and an easy 20 minute walk to town. You’ll walk through green spaces with walking paths much of the way.

The chefs have a beautiful French style bedroom with the most comfortable bed and linens. I slept like a baby and had a great week with Edgar and Laurent.

If you want the chefs to cook for you, be sure to ask for pricing and menu selections in advance. Don’t miss this experience because the food was beyond magnificent.

Book this room with Airbnb at the link below but please leave some nights for me.
https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/5135950

Casa Peti


Many of you remember Ernesto from Red Tree House in Mexico City. So happy that he is one step closer to San Miguel.

When I went for a visit, the space was starting to come alive. Sally was planting gorgeous flowers to pave the center courtyard and Ernesto’s sister Alexandra, the head architect, had all the tile designs laid out in her head. Getting them done is just a matter of time. It is a huge work in progress and they currently have 4 rooms completed with one of them already occupied by a long-term guest.

When they’re completed, you'll want to bring your extended family, a wedding party or a large group of friends to this property; it's the perfect spot to reconnect right in the middle of downtown Querétaro. Just don't forget to invite me to the party. 

Book at this airbnb link :
https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/5015060  


Shopping:

You can take a full weekend just for shopping in Querétaro . You’ll want to check out these stores along with the new Antea LifeStyle Center at Paseo de la Republica with many high-end stores and restaurants.


Luba Arte Dulce
Calle 5 de Mayo #100

An amusing candy store stocked with the sweetest of treats. Go here and you’ll remember why you’re still a big kid at heart.


Hecho a Mano y Mas
Calle 5 de Mayo #60

Want something authentically Querétaro? This is the place to buy it with artists from all over the state contributing to the stash.

Take a part of Mexico home with you…

Don’t you just love it when people accuse you of always picking the perfect gift? Abrazos pretty much has all of my Mexico-manias covered…tequila, piñatas, mariachis, Day of the Dead, fiestas and siestas, fireworks, Virgins, Frida’s, rosa mexicano, chili peppers, hugs and kisses…

http://sanmigueldesigns.com/


Check out these Querétaro shops that carry products from Abrazos featuring San Miguel Designs by Patrice Wynn.



You may even want to buy something for yourself.


QUINTO REAL
Reforma 80 
www.quintoreal.com.mx

MADRE TIERRA
Andador Libertad 35A

tiendas-madretierra.blogspot.mx
↧

Just Like Home

May 2, 2015, 1:45 pm
$
0
0

Having good food and service meets a minimum requirement when it comes to dining out these days. A restaurant has to offer more.

These SMA restaurants are all very different but have one thing in common; they know it's the little things that differentiate their restaurant from the next.  

I am as dedicated to the owners as I am to their food…one of the many reasons that these restaurants feel just like home.

Buen Apetit!

augamiel cocina rustica
Pipila 3A
http://aguamiel.com.mx/
  
You all know Chef Gaby Green, a restaurant legend in San Miguel forever. Chef Sandor Rodriguez spent time at The Restaurant as sous chef to Donny Masterton and recently worked with ex-Cafe Rama chef Jason Mallof in Nelson, BC. Together, with media savvy co-owner Jennifer Posner, you get a fine-tuned team that not only understands good food but also knows how to make a table full of customers happy.


They begin your meal with great bread; augamiel buys theirs from the bakery down the street, Buonforno, and then pairs it with a delicious Baba ganoush; a Levantine dish of cooked eggplant mixed with olive oil and various seasonings. They've kept it secret and little wonder since this one is superb.


I tried their signature dish, the Fried Avocado Taco. Slather black bean spread on a taco, top it with a fried, panko-crusted slice of avocado, kimchi and a touch of spicy mayo for just $30 pesos. This is one of the best new takes on a taco that I've had recently.


The Panuchos are tortillas with a spread of black beans, cochinita pibil, habanero sauce and pickled red onions. This gets high marks as the combination of flavors was surprising and delicious. In fact, nothing we ate at augamiel cocina rustica was predictable. That’s one of the many things I like about this place.

The next day, we came back to order Chef Sandor’s BBQ Ribs. The sauce was the perfect blend of 15 ingredients. It was so good that it made us wish they were on the menu every day.

Happy Hour is from 4-6 PM; Dos Aves Cerveza or 2x1 Margaritas with three Argentinean Empanadas for $120 pesos. Without a doubt, this is one of the best fiestas and deals in town.


We tried the mango, tamarind and the not-so-standard Margarita and all of them were magnificent…and strong. Hats off and good night to friends who could drink more than two.


The empanadas were a mix; one stuffed with corn, one with meat and one with cheese. I’m not sure any of us could decide which one was the favorite. All of them are worth another order just to figure that one out.


The restaurant is just off Sterling Dickinson; it’s the little street with the tree in the middle of it. Walk up the hill and the restaurant is on the left.

I love a restaurant that starts out running. This one is already on my top 10 list.
  

garambullo fonda gourmet
Animas 46
             
Team up mother and daughter Maye Cordova and Jimena Tamayo Cordova and you get a made-for-locals hang out with strong coffee, great conversation and really good food.

Maye was at Cumpanio and has been a catering maven in Mexico for years, delivering some of the most creative and beautiful dishes in San Miguel. 


Try my favorite, the poached eggs and beans with spinach (a substitute for nopales) green sauce, and toast points.
  

Look for the signature pink door, and interior pink wall, on the right-hand side of Animas. It’s the first left as you head down Colegio around from Mercado Ignacia Ramirez.


Casa de Cocinas
San Antonio, San Miguel de Allende

Casa de Cocinas is part of my monthly culinary tradition that is anything but routine. Its tasting dinners make it one of the best "restaurants" in town.

If you don't know owner Michael Coon, he's the former Travel Director and co-creator of the Culinary Institute of America's Worlds of Flavor tours.

He now owns and operates The Inside Route at Casa de Cocinas here in San Miguel. 


Michael is one of the top chefs in SMA. Ask him about any place in the world and he’s likely been there. He a dedicated scholar of global cuisine and works his magic in the kitchen at Casa de Cocinas.

On the first bite at every tasting, I wonder what backstreet he traveled down to inspire the recipe. His gift is innate. I’m certain if he were handed a golden beet, he would do something astounding with it. There’s something totally stimulating about watching a really great chef at work.

When he’s not out leading culinary tours, he’s in his kitchen doing tasting dinners and teaching classes. His talent is so broad, you’ll never have a repeat adventure.

If you want to get on his mailing list for tours, classes and dinners, email him at: nsideroute@aol.com

No surprise that all seven of the meals I've had at Casa de Cocinas have been among the best I've had in San Miguel. Go once and I guarantee you’ll become a regular.
   
Oliver's
Refugio Sur no. 28


You'll likely see your country's flag in their front yard when they come out of the house to greet you.
  
The tables are just close enough together to get to know the people sitting next to you. It’s like dining with one, big, happy family.
  
They are doing everything right these days…

Having moved around for many years because of increasing rents, they've found a little piece of heaven with their own space where the garden is overflowing with fruit and flowering trees.

La Lonja Carniceria is their meat supplier and the meat is delivered fresh every day. I've bought from La Lonja since the first day I came to San Miguel.


I go there because I like their burgers. They have added steaks and chicken to the menu. 


I love to spend time with Oliver and Ellie, who both love to talk food.


Dog friendly.
   

Andy’s Tacos
Hidalgo and Insurgentes

Every evening at 7PM, there’s a long line at Andy's Taco cart. The smell is a magnet for aficionados who jockey for one of the few seats and an overflowing plate of savory Tacos Al Pastor.

The pork is marinated in dried chilies and spices then slow-cooked on a vertical rotisserie. Cover the taco with a spicy, red chipotle salsa and slices of cooked pineapple and you’ll likely be totally unaware of when to stop eating. This stuff is habit forming.

Andy's is also a favorite of partygoers looking for an after-hours feast and still intoxicated by the magic of the fiesta.  A bargain at 10 pesos each or 67 cents; have 3 and you’ve spent $2.01.

I need a frequent Pastor fix so you’ll find me there at least once a week just as they open. It’s a great time to chitchat with Andy as he caramelizes the Al Pastor to the stage of almost-burnt perfection.

I have the recipe which I am going to make this weekend. It’s pretty complicated so I can’t imagine I’m going to give up going there any time soon.

It’s the only food I missed when I was in Guatemala. 


Dog friendly.


Lavanda
Hernandez Macias # 87

This is my go-to place for an outstanding breakfast. I’ve eaten the old menu and there was not one dish I didn’t like. There now have several new items on the menu.

This is the place to go when you have out-of-town guests and want to make an impression. You can always count on fresh ingredients and a more than attractive presentation. In my world, presentation counts just about as much as the food itself.


Straight-up best? It will always be their signature Huevos Rancheros. Died and gone to the food heaven of my dreams every time I taste them.

Karla is one of the most consistent and talented chefs in SMA.


Provecho
Ancha de San Antonio #10A

Nobody in SMA happens to be more charming than these two…

Add this lovely owner/mother Siobhan with daughter/Chef Joanna Bryne, and you get a culinary dream team; a match that knows exactly what to give to their customers.

On the grounds of this former 17th century palace of the Counts of Canal, the restaurant is not only visually beautiful but the food is splendid as well.

The dishes are layered with such amazing flavors that it always surprise me. Joanna is a chef that knows how to get the best out of all the seasonal ingredients that she uses.


The soups are a stand out and they change up their specials every week.

Call it your everyday Irish home away from home.


El Tucan
Hernandez Marcia's 56
Dog friendly

Since I came to San Miguel, I’ve been friends with El Tucan owner, Alex, who cooked in Chicago for 11 years.


He’s got inexpensive, Mexican items on his menu. My favorite is the flautas; 5 for 35 pesos. Knowing that something deep fried has been covered in a pile of healthy vegetables takes away at least half the guilt for eating them.

This is a guy who not only will cook anything you’re hungry for on any given day – just ask him- but he will also do anything for you as well. He a shirt-off-his-back kind of guy.

Want to know something or just get something done? Ask Alex, a SMA native with a remarkable network of contacts.

Last year, when several of us were on the hunt for pork cheeks, Alex not only told us where to get them but he also went with us to Comonfort and introduced us to the butcher. Turns out Alex use to buy all the meat at the Longhorn when it was in its’ prime.

His English is textbook perfect. Don’t let the dive surroundings throw you. This place is as local as it gets.

If you get it to go, you’ll miss the “Alex experience”.


Osvaldo's
Independencia #47

Call this place unpretentious. At this dog friendly restaurant, 90% of the customers are Mexican. Mix that with good food, cheap prices - everything on the menu is about 50 pesos- and a charming owner with 6 beautiful kids and you get a place where you want to go as often as you can hike up the hill. 

Go for the tasty liquiado which on a split 15 pesos.

I'm trying to remember the last time I got anything this good for $1.
↧
↧

Seven Cities in Mexico to Get Great Food

May 12, 2015, 2:43 pm
$
0
0

Having been on the road for three years now, I no longer think of Mexico in terms of just beautiful beaches, five star resorts and tequila.

The Mexico I know is colonial cities and pueblos mágicos that blend tradition with stunning architecture along with a remarkable food profile. 

One minute you’re sipping a smoky Mezcal that’s just been opened for the first time in five years and the next moment you’re in awe watching Cemitas being made in a market stall in Puebla.

Great food experiences, developing good taste, refining your palate…call it what you like. It all goes into understanding just what makes Mexican food taste so darn good.

Quite frankly, I thought I would be sick of Mexican food by now but the chefs here keep reinventing it and with every new experience comes a different taste.

We love the authentic food experiences we’ve had in these seven cities because one new food adventure always led to another. That’s the beauty of eating where the old world meets the new.

To explore the culinary landscape of inland Mexico today is as complex as it is excitingly.

When you go, you’ll want to dig deep to find all of your favorites. 

We’re giving you a head start by telling you some of ours.

Buen Apetito!

Mexico City

Mexico City, is packed with remarkable, high-end restaurants, food trucks and is known for its incredible street food. In fact, there’s so much good food in Mexico City, the Wall Street Journal called it a contender for the world’s greatest food city.
There is no place in Mexico we love eating more than Mexico City. Like Chicago, it’s our kind of town.

Posts:

http://www.cupcakesandcrablegs.com/2014/04/mexico-city-just-in-time-for-comida_13.html

http://www.cupcakesandcrablegs.com/2014/10/chasing-df.html

Best thing I ate:


Am I high-quality bread deprived? There are many great things to eat in Mexico City but the bread was most inspiring the last time we were there.

I had no clue after years of eating bolillos that they were suppose to taste like they do at El Cardenal. I ate the entire basket they were that good…and asked for a second. The waiter didn’t blink an eye so apparently a lot of people do the same thing.


Panadería Rosetta is ina class by itself when it comes to making lighter-than-air artisan breads. 


Best Restaurant:

Rosetta
Colima 166, Cuauhtémoc, Roma Norte

Chef Elena Reygadas was recently named the best female chef in Latin America and she built Rosetta's reputation on using fresh, seasonal ingredients. 

Meals here are a spiritual experience; the kind that you can still taste and dream about long after you've eaten them.


Go when they open to get one of the coveted, outdoor tables.


Restaurante El Cardenal

 A short trek down the hill in San Angel, Restaurante El Cardenal, Av. de la Paz Núm. 32, Colonia San Ángel, was perhaps the best combination on food, service and atmosphere that we’ve had in Mexico. Try the Mixiotes.


Maximo Bistrot

 At Tonalá 133 in Colonia Roma, Chef Eduardo Garciá never studied gastronomy but developed his skills in the kitchens of Mexico City’s famous Pujol and Le Bernardin in New York. Need I say more? Sweetbreads to die for.

Where to find Mexican street:


Inside Mercado San Juan at Delicatessen La Jersey.

A complimentary glass of wine, the Amigos over-stuffed sandwich with Serrano ham, Salami, Cocido, Lomo Canadiense, Manchego National, Cabra and Parmesano topped with Salsa Artisanal Botanera and a free Postre made with Mascarpone, strawberries, honey and chocolate was just 65 pesos. When was the last time I had a fantastic lunch for $4.25? It's now on my growing list of cheap eats in Mexico City.


Food Writer Nicholas Gilman knows Mexico City better than just about any food lover out there. Read his book, Good Food in Mexico City: A Guide to Food Stalls, Fondas and Fine Dining, like it was the bible before you visit. You’ll know exactly where to go for the best of everything when you arrive.

A market adventure:  

You’ve got to experience them just once: Central de Abastos/La Nueva Viga

Central de Abastos is Mexico City’s main wholesale market for produce and other foodstuffs. La Nueva Viga is the largest seafood market in Mexico and the second largest in the world. Get there early because a lot of the freshest stuff is gone by mid-day. 
Expect to get lost.

Favorite Food Market: Mercado San Juan

Mercado de San Juan is the destination for Mexico City’s chefs and you'll find plenty of them wandering this market for some of the best food in DF. 


You'll be tempted to spend all of your mad money in one place. 


The Bajio region is set across Mexico’s central highlands and includes the cities of San Miguel de Allende, Queretaro and Guanajuato.

Up until recently, culinary experts had nothing good to say about the food. Then along came significant numbers of expatriates, entrepreneurs and foreigners relocating to the area and suddenly you can savor anything from Mexican to International and gourmet classics.

One thing is for sure; the culinary scene in the Bajio is as diverse and vibrant as the region itself.

After a recent trip to Queretaro, I call the city Bajio’s rising star. It’s not only the fastest growing economy in Mexico, but the food is both exciting and unique…and it’s less than an hour from my front door in San Miguel.

Queretaro

Post:

http://www.cupcakesandcrablegs.com/2015/04/queretaro-el-bajio-srising-star.html

Best thing I ate:

Chilaquiles@Especiero
Independencia #64, Centro Historic

At Especiero, Chef Emiliano Ayala is not afraid to mess with a classic. These Chilaquiles are made with strips of fried corn tortillas and served up with cheese, poached eggs and a pile of chicken. Salsa verde is poured over the dish at the table so it never turns soggy before you hit the bottom of the bowl. It is the perfect cure for a wild night that didn’t end until Especiero unlocked the doors. 


Gordo Santo@Cardosanto
16 Circuito a Jardin Sour


Food lesson No. 1: When it comes to hamburgers, calories don’t count. And at Cardosanto, these people know how to accessorize grilled meat; super-sized by adding a mountain of bacon. The accompanying fries are treated to a peppering of thyme and Parmesan. You’ll leave satisfied; that is, if you can get out of your chair.

Best Restaurant:

Cocono Restaurante Bar
Blvrd. Bernardo Quintana 18, Calesa  


Blending old traditions with new techniques, people are singing the praises of this food establishment and I can see why. Every typical Mexican plate brings something different. From eye-catching drinks like Lemonada with chia seeds and spearmint and the delicious Margarita Maracuy to meat platters grilled and served with a salsa of habanero and chile de árbol and a pile of requeson to cut the heat, just about everything at Cocono's will grab your attention including the service.

Where to find Mexican street:


Taco de Chamorro@Don Chamorro
73 y 74, La cruz

Smother the best pork leg taco in Queretaro with onions, cilantro and pico de gallo and you’re in for a serious feast. Go for the visuals; broad-shouldered men stirring a giant copper vat of pig parts with little paddles. Pair with a Mexican Coca-Cola that will bring on a welcomed sugar rush. If you take it to go, you’ll fight the urge to break into the package on your way home; an indulgence you’ll probably not want to share.


Torta de Carnits@Las Tortugas
Anda 5 De Mayo 27


This torta de carnita, topped with a secret tomato sauce, has been served for more than 59 years and is Mexican comfort food taken to the next level. Also flavoring this mouthwatering sandwich? Plain old yellow mustard. I’m addicted to the combination. It’s similar to a Sloppy Joe, only with pork and a lot messier. This is a symphony of flavors sandwich lovers will hear over and over in their heads. Bring a bib and a pocketful of small change.

A market adventure:

Walking around Mercado de la Cruz is a feast for the eyes… and nose. Many of the chefs and locals in town shop here for just-picked ingredients, meats and fresh dairy.


It’s a photographer’s paradise…for a change; everyone here wants you to take their picture.

Classic bar:

Bar Alquimia
5 de Mayo 71, Centro


Just one block from Plaza de Armas, this attractive, little cantina-style bar caught my eye and it was love at first sight. Get there early or you are likely to spend the night standing. Great place to meet locals. Open from 18:00 to 2:30 hrs; Closed on Sundays and Mondays.

Guanajuato

Post:

http://www.cupcakesandcrablegs.com/2014/08/guanajuato-great-food-city-you-dont-go.html

Best food I ate:


Chamorro Las Mercedes@ Las Mercedes

This family recipe of tender and juicy pork shank was cooked in its own juices and served in a broth with tomatoes and black beans. This is a.k.a. beyond delicious.
Calle de Arribe 6.


Arrachera@Casa Valadez 

This restaurant was always jam-packed, mainly with Mexicans, which is a testament to the consistency and quality of their food. I ate there four times and all of them were great food experiences.


I've been known to judge a restaurant by its Arrachera and this one was cooked to perfection. Slight char on the outside with a beautiful, pink center…just the way it's supposed to be. At Jardin Union 3.

Best Restaurant:

Las Mercedes 

This wasn’t even a contest. At Calle de Arribe 6, Las Mercedes is a beautiful restaurant up the hill in the San Javier residential district just 10 minutes from downtown. Authentic, small and known for personal service, all of the family’s recipes are classics. Make a reservation. Best time to go is when they open.

Where to find Mexican street:


Guacamaya Sandwich at Hidalgo Market


Ok, I'll admit this sandwich was a lot easier to look at than it was to eat. This signature street food sandwich is made of pork skin, fresh avocado, and a super-spicy pico de gallo that is added to a special sauce made with chiles de arbol. It’s the most unhealthy sandwich on the planet... but it’s so good.


A market adventure:  

Hidalgo Market looks like a turn of the last century train station. It’s full of wonderful aromas that will tempt you to stay all day.

The left door leads into the Gavira Market where there are traditional eateries with all sorts of Mexican foods to eat.Plaza de Gavira, on the opposite entrance, functions as an open air market.

I prefer the food stands inside Hidalgo Market. They are dependable and a much better buy.


Classic Bar:

La Clave Azul Restaurante Taberna is a little, well-hidden, attraction located on Segunda De Cantaritos 31 up a tiny, hidden alleyway from Plaza San Fernando that you would never find on your own.

This old, two story cantina that is more like a museum with its unusual artifacts including old chandeliers, cameras, posters and photos.

You can grab a craft beer or get a taste of Mezcal, both of them made in Guanajuato.

It’s all in the family and that’s the way they like it.


San Miguel de Allende

Best Experience:


Mole Lessons; You Don't Need 21 Ingredients to Make a Mole

After taking mole lessons with the abuela who can make it with her eyes closed (I was kidding but she did close them), I can honestly say it was time consuming but a lot easier than I had expected. Beautifully complex with top notes of smoke and undertones of chilies, the depth of flavor had such an authenticity that even I was amazed at how few ingredients could go into a mole and still deliver that wonderful, rich taste.

Working with chilies is a class or two or three in itself. The experience helped me get through a recent 6 hour session when making Andy’s Tacos al Pastor.

Best things to eat in San Miguel:


Burnt Caramel Ice Cream Sundae@ The Restaurant

Give into temptation. At Donnie Masterson's restaurant, known for its anything but predictable offerings, this exquisite dessert takes sweet indulgence to the next level. The custom made Ambrosia ice cream is swimming in caramel then laced with marshmallow and a sprinkling of cacahuates. Throw out the calorie book on this one. This confectionery masterpiece is almost too beautiful to eat. 


Huevos Rancheros@Lavanda

How does this popular restaurant make perfect poached eggs look like little balls of Oaxaca cheese? Chef Karla's drop-dead gorgeous presentation comes from her training as a graphic artist. She's armed with a portfolio of her mother's classic recipes including this picture-perfect version of the dish. The taste will astonish even the most die-hard Eggs Benedict lover who has never given a second look at this Mexican standard.

Best Rooftop Restaurants:


Jicama Taco@La Azotea

The signature dish of this popular rooftop bar in Centro is a slice of Jicama filled with lightly breaded shrimp and topped with fried leeks, mayo with chipotle and a tamarind sauce. These tacos are so light you can easily polish off two or three. Go after 7PM to catch the beautiful Parroquia views. Best staff in town. It's everything you want a restaurant/bar to be and then some. Umaran 6.


Luna Rooftop Tapas Bar - Rosewood Hotel

Because this is one of the most luxurious hotels in the city, people often dismiss this restaurant/bar as being too pricey. Think again.

Delicious Cochinita Pibil Tacos and Martinis for $7 on Tuesday night. No matter what you spend, totally worth the 360-degree view of San Miguel’s most beloved landmark, the Parroquia. At Nemesio Diez 11.
                                                                                                                           
Where to find Mexican street:


Flautas de Pollo@El Tucan

At SMA's favorite cheap eat, these rolled tacos are overstuffed with chicken and topped with so many healthy vegetables you'll forget they were ever fried in a pan of oil to begin with. Bring a hearty appetite and leave your Spanish dictionary at home. Alex cooked for many years in Chicago and speaks textbook English. The bonus? You'll leave with a full stomach and a pocketful of change. 


Mixiotes@El Pato

The next best thing to your mother's pot roast, Mixiotes is a traditional, pit-barbecued meat dish made of lamb that is cut with the bone and seasoned with pasilla, guajillo and spices like cumin, thyme, marjoram, bay leaves, cloves and garlic. It's then wrapped in small bundles and cooked in the ground overnight. At this thatched-roof palapa at the end of Canal Street, Pilar and Jose Luis will convince you there is no better dish anywhere in Mexico. If it weren't for the location, this spot would have a line around the block every day. Take a doggy bag because it's even better the next day.


Tacos al Pastor@Andy's Tacos

Every evening at 7PM, there’s a long line at Andy's Taco in Centro. The mere aroma attracts aficionados who jockey for one of the few seats and a small plate of savory Tacos Al Pastor. The pork is marinated in dried chiles, spices and pineapple and is slow-cooked on a vertical rotisserie then covered with a spicy, red chipotle salsa. Andy's is a favorite of partygoers looking for an after-hours feast and still intoxicated by the magic of the fiesta. Hidalgo and Insurgentes.

The market adventure:

Post: Eating your way through the Tianguis de los Martes (Tuesday Market)

http://www.cupcakesandcrablegs.com/2014/03/eating-your-way-through-san-miguels.html

Two of my favorite stands at this market are:


Carnitas@Bautista Brothers

Carnitas should come with a warning label. What makes these porky bits so addictive is that they are simmered in lard until fork tender. Bautista Brothers have pop-up stands all over San Miguel including several at Tianguis de Martes. In a torta or a tortilla, this dish is certain to make your list of all-time favorites. Fights will erupt over a communal plate so get your own.


Barbacoa@Robinson Family Barbacoa Stand


This is Barbacoa at its very best; lamb wrapped in maguey leaves and cooked in the ground overnight. It's on the breakfast menu and this stand is an early morning favorite at San Miguel's Tianguis de Martes. Grab a half cup of caldo and an extra helping of Barbacoa, then load up with chopped cilantro, onions and a squeeze of lime. You wouldn't crave another thing all day. 

Puebla

One of the many reasons that people go to Puebla, in the eastern region of Mexico, is to eat. The quality of food, from the market stalls to the finest tables in the city, is unparalleled. Stay for a month and I guarantee you’ll still have too many places to explore. I’m back there later this summer for another look.

Post:

http://www.cupcakesandcrablegs.com/2013/09/eating-my-way-through-puebla.html

Best thing I ate:


Cemita@Cemitas Las Polentas in Mercado del Carmen. In fact, this is one of my favorite dishes in all of Mexico. I’ve had it at many other places in Puebla but none of them compared to Cemitas Las Polentas.

You’ve got to see the operation just to appreciate how much labor and love goes into this sandwich.

It’s gigantic but somehow I managed to eat the whole thing.

Best Restaurant:


Restaurant Purificadora
Callejon de la 10 Norte 80

I know, there are a lot of great places to go in Puebla like Meson Sacristia de la Compania which has a higher rating than Restaurant Purificadora and we thought it was good but I happened to have an almost perfect meal at Restaurant Purificador which showcases Puebla’s food traditions as interpreted by noted chef, Enrique Olvera from Mexico City’s famous Pujol restaurant.

Where to find Mexican street:


Molotes are made by street vendors in the alley across from the Jardín del Carmen and are a quick and easy breakfast.


Taco Aribe, invented by Puebla's Lebanese immigrants, are rich tacos served on a thick flour tortilla much like a pita. The meat is marinated in a blend of garlic, spices, serrano and other chilies. It is then rotisserie-cooked until the aromatics almost melt into the meat. It’s carved off a vertical rotisserie and topped with a salsa of puréed chipotle peppers, an everyday Poblano ingredient. Purists claim that real Tacos Arabe is made by layering pork loin and onions on a spit and then slowly roasting everything over very hot coals. 

Some of the best Tacos Arabe can be found at the markets or on just about every back street in Puebla. 

A market adventure:


Mercado San Pedro at Cholula

Located about 15 minutes from Puebla on on Avenida Hidalgo, which is the main street in Cholula's Centro Historico, is one of my favorite markets in Mexico for genuine food experiences. I saw everything at this market including a guy who hauled a pig across his back the entire length of the market. Fascinating and lovably local.

Guadalajara


Western Mexico includes the beautiful city of Guadalajara, Mexico’s second largest city.
Guadalajara is known for one of the most recognizable Mexican things in Mexico...TEQUILA. 

Needless to say, Tequila is the first thing I discovered in Mexico back when I was 17…and it was definitely not Don Julio.

Post:



Best thing I ate:

Shrimp Al Pastor@ Cocina 88

Rich, smoky and really outstanding, Cocina 88 is in an old, turn of the century mansion at Vallerta 1342, Colonia Americana in Guadalajara.

Best Restaurant:

La Tequila is rated #1 of 582 restaurants on Trip Advisor and has an extensive selection of both tequilas and cuisine. The service is excellent.

Since there were no gusanos in the kitchen that day (usually tossed in garlic, onions and a little tequila), we ordered a plate of grasshopper tacos. Surprisingly, they were delicious. They are fed apples and roasted in lime chili and salt. The end product is a nutty, crispy, salty and spicy delicacy. It might change your mind about eating bugs.

We also loved the sopes with bone marrow, pork and chicharrón.

La Tequila is located on Avenida Mexico 2830 in Colonia Ladron de Guevar.


Where to find Mexican street:

You don’t have to look too hard. It’s on just about every street corner and in the neighboring towns of both Tonola and Tlaquepaque. Make sure you go to both. Tlaquepaque is a beautiful town known for its charm and shopping. Tonala is recognized for its famous Thursday/Sunday market.

A market adventure:

In the city: Mercado Libertad, one of the largest covered markets in Mexico at Javier Mina Y Calzada Independencia. Food stalls are all on the second floor.

 In the surrounding area: Tonola.

This is the first market I went to in Mexico. It hasn’t changed much in the past 40 years except it’s gotten a lot bigger… and they sell music. There are still some of the same vendors here as there were 40 years ago. Savor the Mexico Moments at this market as there will be too many to count them.


Oaxaca

Southwestern Mexico includes my favorite food city, Oaxaca.

I fell undeniably in love with Oaxaca’s rich, complicated dishes that are layered with flavors and deep rooted in traditions…like black mole.

From chocolate, grasshoppers, mezcal, grilled meats and more classes of chili peppers and moles than you can hope to remember, Oaxaca is a food culture all its own.

Posts:



Best thing I ate: 


It took just one plate of dark, rich, and wonderfully sweet and spicy black mole to convince me this was it.

Best Restaurant:

Catedral Restaurante and Bar, 105 Garcia Virgil

Black mole with organic turkey confit accompanied by refried beans, rice and plantain sliced.

Biznaga, 512 Garcia Virgil

Beef filet with smoked chili, plums and Mezcal sauce and mashed potatoes.

Where to find Mexican street:


The grilled meat section in Oaxaca’s 20 de Noviembre market is dark and smoky but the food is delicious. It's a meat lover’s paradise. That would be me.


I Use To Be Afraid Of Bugs; Now I Eat Them!

Gusanos (maguey worms), Jumiles (stink bugs), Chicatanas (giant winged ants), Escamoles (ant larvae) oftentimes referred to as insect caviar, Ahuatle (water-fly eggs), Cuchamás (green caterpillars), Chapulines (grasshoppers), Alacránes (scorpions), Libélulas (dragonflies), and Escarabajos (beetles). 

I haven't tried an insect I didn't like.

A market adventure:

The culinary climate in Oaxaca is the most exciting in Mexico and attracts both chefs and foodies alike. The markets are a good start for understanding just why that is.

20 de Noviembre Market

Did I tell you that the 20th of November is my birthday so no wonder I had such a connection to this market. It's the culinary heart of Oaxaca.

It's mainly food and produce which includes my favorite section: Carnes Asadas. It's located indoors on the east side of the market. Meat stalls line both sides of a very wide aisle. You can barely see through the smoke except when sunlight streams in through the ceiling. It's mystical.

BBQ chefs are competing to sell you meats and sausages while their assistants, with small woven fans, struggle to keep the flames under control while they cook.

Once you've selected your meat and vegetables, you are led to a table where you are offered accompaniments like fresh-made tortillas, salsas and guacamole.


Road Trips...

San Pablo Etla on Wednesday, Ocotlan on Friday and Sunday in Tlacolula; you haven't seen real life in Mexico until you've gone out to one of the small towns where indigenous people from villages all over the central valleys of Oaxaca come for market day.


It’s the best culinary experience you’ll have in Mexico. Grab a collectivo for the experience.
↧

Taking on the King of the Street: Tacos al Pastor

May 21, 2015, 3:43 pm
$
0
0
Andy opens his taco cart every night when the sun sets, more or less. That's when all the magic starts and the food lovers of San Miguel come out of their nest to get a fast food fix. I know. I am one of them.

Andy knows me by name. I’m one of his best customers. He also knows my secret. I'm passionately addicted to his food and that comes with both benefits and consequences. It’s up to you to determine what they are.

Call me one of Andy’s Taco junkies; he's got plenty of them. Just show up some night to witness the ritual. You’ll have to get in line though. Yep, the end of the line starts way back there. You might as well drop the aggravation and savor the experience. This encounter will change the way you think about street food.

As a food writer, I’m always excited to find a meal for $30 pesos…especially one this good. You’re officially an aficionada when you come here more than once a week.


Unlike the other pastor vendors in town, Andy caramelizes his meat to an almost-crunchy texture. That process makes it picture-perfect when he shaves it off the vertical spit, fries it, splashes it with a somewhat fiery salsa, kisses it with thin slices of pineapple and hands it over with a grin. If you blink twice from the sweet-smelling smoke in your eyes, you'll swear that Elvis is alive and well and living in San Miguel. That's part of the reason you come here.

Andy has a night vibe. Call it a religious experience that happens as it moves toward the midnight hour and now partygoers show up looking for an after-hours feast while still intoxicated by the magic of the fiesta.

I’ve looked for his equal at nearly every place in town including Tacos Mesones and Chilly Willy’s.


Tacos Mesones doesn’t fire their meat long enough to get that mandatory char and when Chilly Willy’s pointed to a bowl of canned pineapple after I asked where the fruit was, I threw up my hands and declared the competition over. It was never really a close contest to begin with.

Local chef Michael Coon recently sent me the recipe for Andy's Tacos al Pastor that was published in the Wall Street Journal last year along with a wonderful article written by Nani Power. In 2014, Nani moved to San Miguel for the summer with her teenage son. He was craving Big Macs, chips and junk food until he discovered Andy’s Tacos al Pastor. They became her son’s new favorite fast food and it brokered a rapprochement between them. http://www.wsj.com/articles/diplomacy-in-a-tortilla-tacos-al-pastor-1412353763 

Tacos al Pastor has always been one of my favorite foods and triggers a memory in me of what it was like to bring a teenage son to Mexico for the summer. For that reason alone, it will always be a comfort food. It was also one of my favorite feeds every Sunday morning at Rubi’s in Chicago’s Maxwell Street Market.

I took on the challenge of the recipe but when I got around to actually making it, I was in for a big surprise. It was a lot of work.

I know you are looking at the recipe right now saying it’s far too time-consuming and complex to even think about making. You’re right. It is. Who would go to all this trouble when you can walk down the street and get one for 10 pesos but the thought of finally knocking off my favorite street food recipe was just too tempting. I was in.

Believe me when I say there are no shortcuts to this flavor. For all of the hours I boiled, cooked, blended and BBQed, I swore I would only make it once. 

I even tried another Tacos al Pastor recipe from Food and Wine Magazine and Paul Kahan of Big Star restaurant in Chicago. It had plenty of short cuts. This recipe used more spices, orange juice, coca cola and also guajillo chilies. You microwave the chilies and cook it a shorter time, finally grilling it over a moderate instead of medium-high heat.

This is when I discovered that when it comes to flavor, there are no shortcuts. The recipe was good but it wasn’t Andy’s.


When I finally sat down to the fruit of my labor and took one bite of the WSJ recipe, it erased every bad memory and word I used in the process to make it.

This was the best Tacos al Pastor I had eaten since my trip to Andy's last night.

The recipe for six was instantly demolished by me in one sitting and I didn't feel the least bit guilty. In fact, all I could think about was who I was going to make it for tomorrow night. 

Buen Apetito! 


Andy's Tacos Al Pastor Recipe
Active Time: 30 minutes Total Time: 6 hours 
Serves: 6

For the pork al pastor: 

2 cups water
5 dried ancho chilies
1 teaspoon cumin seeds, toasted
3 whole cloves, toasted
1 dried chipotle pepper
3 cloves garlic
2 teaspoons sea salt
1 tablespoon achiote or annatto paste (available at Latin American markets)
1 teaspoon sugar
¼ cup white vinegar
1 medium tomato
3 ounces pineapple juice
2 tablespoons soy sauce
1 teaspoon oregano
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 pounds boneless pork butt, sliced ¼-inch thick
½ pound salt pork, rind removed and sliced ¼-inch thick
¾ cup chicken broth
1 teaspoon vegetable oil
1/2 chopped white onion

Make pork marinade: 
Bring 2 cups water and ancho chilies to a simmer in a covered sauce pan over medium heat. Simmer until soft, 15 minutes. Remove from heat and let cool. Once cool, drain chilies, reserving cooking liquid. 

Remove stems and seeds from chilies and place in blender along with cooking liquid, RESERVING ½ CUP OF THE LIQUID. 

Add cumin, cloves, chipotle, garlic, half the roughly chopped onions, sea salt, achiote, sugar, vinegar, tomato, pineapple juice, soy sauce and oregano to blender and purée until consistency is similar to that of light cake batter.

If too thick, add reserved cooking liquid, 1 tablespoon at a time. I used the entire amount.
Place marinade in a saucepan over medium heat, bring to a simmer and cook for 15 minutes. 

Remove from heat and let cool to room temperature.

Lightly season both sides of pork-butt with salt and pepper.

Cut into 1-inch squares. 

Cut salt-pork slices into 1-inch squares. 

Place pork-butt and salt-pork pieces in a large bowl. 

Add cooled marinade to pork, tossing to coat evenly. 

Cover bowl and chill in refrigerator at least 4 hours and up to overnight. I marinated it overnight.

For the chipotle salsa: 

6 dried chipotle chilies
2 cups water
2 large tomatoes
½ large white onion, quartered
3 garlic cloves, peeled
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
½ teaspoon sugar
1 teaspoon salt

Heat a large frying pan over high heat. Once hot, add chilies to pan and cook until lightly toasted, 2 minutes per side. Add 2 cups water, bring to a simmer and cook until chilies are soft, about 15 minutes. Drain chilies and set aside. 

Reserve cooking liquid. 

Wipe pan clean and set over high heat. Once hot, add tomatoes, onions and garlic, and cook, turning frequently, until lightly charred all over, 10-15 minutes. 

Place softened chilies, charred vegetables and remaining ingredients along with half the reserved cooking liquid in a blender and purée until combined but still slightly chunky. 

Taste and season as needed. I used an additional 1/2 tsp sugar and sprinkled it over top after making to take off a little of the heat.

Set salsa aside and clean the blender. 

To Cook:  

½ pineapple, peeled and core removed, cut into pieces
½ large white onion, cut into 1-inch wedges, for skewers

Thread onion and pineapple on skewers. Brush with oil.

Remove chilled, marinated pork from refrigerator. 

Thread pork pieces onto 4 long metal skewers. 

Let skewers come to room temperature, 30 minutes. 

Heat a grill to medium-high. Close cover and get the grill really hot. 

Place skewers on grill rotating every 5 minutes, until cooked through, 15 minutes total. 

Remove skewers from grill and let meat rest 10 minutes.

Chop and Fry Pork:

Once pork has rested, remove from skewers and chop into ¼-inch chunks. Heat oil in a large frying pan over high heat, add pork and cook, stirring frequently, until CRISP, 10 minutes.

Warm Tortillas:

Wrap tortillas in paper towels and heat in the microwave for 40 seconds.

Remove tortillas and transfer to a cloth-lined basket and cover.

For the sauce:

In a sauce pan over medium heat, bring reserved marinade and chicken broth to a simmer and cook for 15 minutes.

For the tacos:

12 small corn tortillas
Chopped cilantro, for serving
½ large white onion, finely chopped, for serving
Lime wedges, for serving

To serve:

Place two tablespoons crisped pork in each tortilla.

Drizzle with about ½ teaspoon broth-marinade mixture.

Top with grilled, chopped pineapple. 

Serve with chipotle salsa, cilantro, finely chopped white onions and limes. 

Serve grilled onion quarters on the side. 
↧

5 Delightful Places to Eat in Mexico City

September 2, 2015, 3:05 pm
$
0
0
Café Budapest
Common People
Emilio Castelar 149, Mexico City
Café

I love this tiny café on the 2nd floor of Common People, a concept store in Mexico City. Café Budapest has hidden views of beautiful Lincoln Park from the tables on its balcony. A wonderful collection of imported teas selected by tea sommelier, Leticia Saénz, the first tea sommelier in Mexico. Magnificent pastries and old world décor. Once you’ve been here, you’ll be hooked. This tiny café will transport you back to another time and place. 

Magnolia Bakery
Virgilio 40, Miguel Hidalgo, Polanco, Mexico City
Bakery

So much high-quality bakery you’ll have a hard time choosing just one. Not to worry; I ate two and brought two home. Tastes exactly like Magnolia Bakery in Chicago. Known for their Banana Pudding, my forever addiction, Lemon cupcakes and Key Lime pie are also terrific… or for that matter, so is everything else.

Porchetta Pork House
Campos Elíseos 247, Miguel Hidalgo, Polanco, Mexico City
Pork Sandwiches

My new favorite sandwich spot in DF, I stumbled across this tiny spot in Polanco that serves the best porchetta sandwiches.

Porchetta, a specialty of central Italy, is Mexican pork loin of the highest quality wrapped in bacon and seasoned with fennel, sage and rosemary. Go when they open because there is always a long line.

La Jersey Deli
Mercado San Juan, Mexico City
Deli Sandwich

When was the last time you had a fantastic lunch for under $5 USD?

A complimentary glass of wine, the Amigos over-stuffed sandwich with Serrano ham, Salami, Cocido, Lomo Canadiense, Manchego National, Cabra and Parmesano topped with Salsa Artisanal Botanera and a free Postre made with Mascarpone, strawberries, honey and chocolate was just 75 pesos.

El Califa
Altata 22, Col. Condesa, Mexico City
Taquería

Any taco connoisseur realizes that the difference between a good and a great taco is in the salsa and El Califa  makes some of the best.

As far as I’m concerned, Andy’s Tacos in SMA still reigns as the king of Tacos al Pastor but I fell in love with the Chicharon de Queso and the enormous taste of the thin sliced Rib Eye Taco. 

Buen Apetito!
↧
Search

A Week of Indulgences

September 8, 2015, 3:40 pm
$
0
0
After a crazy work week, I’m all about indulging in things that make me feel good.

For me, it’s not about a massage, smoking a good cigar or staying in my PJ’s all day.

My pleasures are all about food and drink. Here are some of them.

Buen Apetito!

Monday: Casa Madero
2V Chardonnay Chenin Blanc
Carretera 102 Paila-Parras, Km 18.5, Hacienda San Lorenzo, Parras, Mexico
Available: Cava Sautto, Hernandez Macias No. 59, San Miguel de Allende

It’s no wonder we hate Mondays. Just when we’re starting to enjoy our weekend, it’s time to go back to work. The Monday Blues are so common that they have become a cultural phenomenon. No better reason to start your night than with a liquid indulgence; a glass of Casa Madero 2V Chardonnay Chenin Blanc.

Wine professionals tell me that 2v has a pronounced nose of peach and crushed pineapple with persistent flavors of citrus, white pepper and spice. What I know? I love the taste.

The Parras Valley is a small wine region in the Sierra Madre Oriental Mountains of central northern Mexico. Although 90% of Mexico’s wines come from Baja, this area has great historical significance because Casa Madero, the oldest winery in Mexico, is located there. Founded in 1597, Casa Madero produces some of the best wines in Mexico.

I first discovered this wine at a little Italian restaurant in Mexico City called La Vineria Restaurante Y Vino Bar, Avenida Fernando Montes de Oca 52, Cuauhtemoc, Condesa. After a lengthy conversation with the owner about Mexican wines, he was so confident that I would enjoy Casa Madero 2V Chardonnay Chenin Blanc, he delivered a bottle to our table. We consumed not one but two bottles that night and I’ve been captivated by the taste ever since.

Ilove the entire line of Casa Madero wines including some of the reds, which I seldom drank until I had them at the Cava Sautto Wine Festival two years ago.

I’m up for a visit to Casa Madero. Rumor has it that a top SMA chef will lead a group to the Parras Valley and the winery sometime next year. Stay tuned.


Tuesday: Bautista Brothers Carnitas
Breakfast Carnita Torta
Available: Tuesday Market, San Miguel de Allende

I am a carnivore. I love beef, chicken and lamb but pork weighs in first when it comes to eating meat in Mexico.

I’ve eaten so much pork in fact, I’m at the point where I can tell great carnitas from good ones.
What makes Bautista Brothers Carnitas, a stand in the middle tent at Tuesday market, a weekly Tuesday indulgence? The pork is simmered in lard and cooked low and slow until fork-tender. Everything is eaten, so pick your favorite part, from the tip of the nose to the curl of the tail.

Call this one obsession you don’t want to renounce any time soon. 

Wednesday: Casa Dragones
Tequila, Mexico
Small batch, luxury Tequila producer
Available: La Azotea, Umaran 6

My nickname, the Tequila Queen, came during a stint I did as a consultant to develop new tequila markets in the US with my good friend César Mascorro Pérez who still travels the world promoting both Tequila and Mezcal.

The name stuck. It’s no secret, I LOVE tequila…good tequila.

Casa Dragones is a handcrafted, small batch, luxury tequila and was rated by Wine Enthusiast at 96/100 – the magazine's highest tequila rating.

My first experience with Casa Dragones was at the Grand Cru at Chicago Gourmet 2012 sponsored by Bon Appetit. I was surprised to find tequila among the many fine wines at this show so naturally, it was my first taste.

It’s one Wednesday indulgence that is definitely worth its’ price tag.

Thursday: Aperi
Steak and vegetables with burnt toast foam, Chocolate in textures
Dos Casas Boutique Hotel and Spa
Quebrada 101


Pick one restaurant in SMA that delivers the most flavorful food and Aperi would be my choice, not just because chef/owner, Matteo Salas, is a really nice guy but because he’s one chef that’s worthy of all the hype.

The first time I had this meal, I wrote: “When did I ever like a main course more than the dessert? Yesterday, at Aperi, Chef Matteo Salas stunned me by a simple ingredient, a carrot, that completely altered my view of vegetables and how chefs cook them. It’s a day later and I can still taste the flavor.”

I went back for round II and topped off this appetizing dish with the Chocolate in textures dessert.

If you’re going to do a single indulgence this week, this is the feast.

Friday: The Restaurant
Braised Rabbit Tostadas
Solano #16, San Miguel de Allende

There are many indulgences on The Restaurant’s menu and the Rabbit Tostadas are it for me. Why? Because rabbit is one thing I never prepare at home.

The rabbits are natural, free range rabbits raised locally in San Miguel.

Topping the braised rabbit is cumin scented black beans, cilantro, radish and lime crème fraiche. Honestly, I was surprised when sampling this dish because it really delivers on the taste.

Love double indulgences? Finish with the burnt caramel ice cream sundae with marshmallow sauce and salted peanuts.

Saturday: Simbiosis
Mushroom Vendor
Available: Saturday Organic Market, San Miguel de Allende

As a mycophagist, you could grow them at home but once you see the selection of mushrooms from this vendor at the Saturday Organic Market, you’ll want to buy a basket and head home to cook.

From Oyster’s to Morels, mushrooms are the Saturday indulgence that will add a well-defined flavor to your cooking.

So, what time is dinner Saturday night?

Sunday: The Perfect Steak
My House!

I always thought that the BBQ grill was the one essential tool for cooking a great steak. Ask me after cooking one of the BEST STEAKS EVER and I will tell you that I can be convinced to give up my Weber for a cast iron pan…at least when it comes to steaks and chops.

The recipe is from Prime Steakhouse in Las Vegas and was featured on the cover of Saveur’s April 2012 issue.

This method is so simple and a Le Creuset grill pan was the charm in the mix once again.

Don't have a glass of wine until you've finished the cooking. The high heat demands your undivided attention.
1 2” thick porterhouse steak
Sea salt and fresh ground pepper
2 tbsp. Canola oil
4 tbsp. unsalted butter
6 sprigs thyme
1 lemon

Season steak with salt and pepper and let sit 30 minutes.
Heat oven to 500 degrees.
Heat a cast iron skillet on high. Add canola oil and when the pan almost smokes, add the steak and cook 5 minutes.
Flip the steak and place in the oven for 7-10 minutes longer.
Pour off the pan drippings and return to the stovetop. Melt butter. Add thyme and lemon and brown for about 4 minutes.
Serve butter and lemon over the steak.

Note: Watch your cooking time carefully. I determined the perfect cooking time for my oven is 5 minutes on the stovetop and 7 minutes in the oven. Get the timing down to a science.
↧
↧

Seven Places to Get a Great Cup of Coffee

September 25, 2015, 8:39 am
$
0
0

When I was in Guatemala earlier this year, I came to appreciate good coffee. In fact, it got to the point where I preferred a good cup of coffee to a glass of wine.

I once heard a Mexican coffee described as having lemon, chocolate and soft spice notes. Like wine, coffee is also rated. One thing for sure; you need a coffee education to understand and appreciate all the varieties of coffee in the Mexico.

I had my first cup of coffee at Gran Cafe de la Parroquia in Veracruz where you tap your spoon on the side of the glass to get the waiters attention. He will pour steaming, hot coffee into your cup from precarious heights. This is a treat for the eyes as well as the palate.

My current favorite is a dessert, an Affogato - vanilla ice cream with a shot of hot coffee poured over it.

I know now that if you want a quality cup, you can’t count your pesos or your calories.

Here are seven places in San Miguel where exceptional coffee is a certainty.

You wouldn’t need a map to get to any of these spots. Just follow your nose.

Buen Apetito!


Café Oso Azul
Zacateros 17

Get a jump-start on your morning with a superior cup of brew and your favorite breakfast skillet.
Bo, one of the owners, has a coffee plantation in Veracruz and they roast their own beans right here in the restaurant.
They have put on coffee classes in the past to better understand the complexity found in a great cup of coffee. Check with them about future offerings.

Cafe La Ventana
Sollano 11

Coffee with a view?

Organic Chiapas coffee is as good as it gets at this little coffee window on Sollano. One of my favorites, it rivals the best Guatemala coffees in both high-grown power and complexity.

Get a cup first thing in the morning and make your way to the Jardin to watch San Miguel come alive. The views are as incredible as the coffee. 

Zenteno Specialty Coffee
Hernandez Macias 138

This corner café is always busy and customers love the colorful surroundings and the full-of-flavor coffee from Veracruz. This is the only place where I found real cafe con leche.

It’s tiny and so cozy you’re bound to make friends with your neighbor before you get a chance to grab your second cup.

What’s for breakfast? Claudia’s pies, what else.


El Cafe de La Mancha
Recreo 21A

Owners Paloma and Christian are passionate about superb coffee. Their beans are sourced from all over Mexico and they create their own blends as well. 

There's a whole range of coffee methods to choose from: Espresso, Cappuccino, Latte, French Press, Japanese Vacuum - they have it all including a Chemex (a Yama Cold Brew Drip Tower), a Melitta Dripper (for German coffee), the Ibrik (Turkish Coffee) and the Aeropress, which has developed a cult following.

What we really like? The beans change every week so you’ll never get bored with the taste.

Lavanda Café
Hernandez Macias 87


Do people come here for the coffee or the breakfast?

Lavanda was created by Chef Karla Becerra Martinez and her partner Victor, who is the head barista and will be representing Lavanda in a major coffee competition this coming February.

Lavanda buys two coffees from Oaxaca and surprisingly, one from Guerrero. The state coffee association asked Guerrero farmers to adopt a natural process for their coffees in order to distinguish them from other Mexican coffees. The result is a full bodied coffee with a surprising finish. Those who like it claim it’s some of the best coffee in Mexico.


Outside of getting a magnificent cup of morning joe, you’ll also get the best breakfast in town.

Buen Dia Cafe 
Callejon del Pueblito #3

They call this coffee worth getting out of bed for. Buen Dia Café is well-known for all of their signature brews and has become legendary as the coffee culture in San Miguel continues to grow.

The trip to this restaurant is worth it just to walk down enchanting Callejon del Pueblito. It’s one of the most engaging streets in San Miguel.

You’ll love this little hideaway so much, you’re certain to find your way back the next morning with a large posse of coffee-loving friends.


Starbucks
Calle Canal 3, esquina Hidalgo

This is no ordinary Starbucks. In keeping with the colonial architecture of San Miguel, Starbucks located at the edge of the Jardin and also has an outdoor patio and courtyard.

Starbucks is filled with a diverse group of people, many who come here every morning to work. Outside of jockeying to grab the more comfortable seats by the window, the regulars all know each other and often trade leads and local chit-chat.


Try something different: the Flat White. Starbucks calls it a bold coffee flavor with a sweeter finish. With an even mix of milk and smooth velvet foam, it feels like you’re drinking an espresso, only it’s yummier.

↧

Gabriel Ordonez: Making Magic on Mesones

October 11, 2015, 2:10 pm
$
0
0

Chef Gabriel Ordonez has come full circle opening El Cincuenta Y Ocho, San Miguel’s popular new bistro and concert bar at Mesones #58.

The building that El Cincuenta Y Ocho is in also happens to be the same house that Gabriel’s childhood friend Seth was born in; a Déjà vu that he’s certain will bring him good luck.

El Cincuenta Y Ocho is not an upscale restaurant as you would expect but rather an unpretentious, multi-level bistro furnished in red velvet and eye-catching Mexicancatrinas. There are a half a dozen in the entryway and the entire collection is magnificently displayed throughout the restaurant.

It’s rare to find a bar with imaginative food but Ordonez is creating small plates that are worthy of a cult following. The fascinating thing is he’s doing it in a very small kitchen.
The in-house joke at Mesones #58 is that the kitchen is smaller than the bathroom.
Being in close quarters is easy though because Sous-Chef, Jose Reyes, a former chef at Cumpanio Restaurante, also worked with Gabriel at The Restaurant.


I first met Gabriel at the SMA Food Festival back in June with Sandor Rodriguez, one of the chefs at The Restaurant. At the time, I didn’t know that Gabriel was another one of the many first-rate chefs to come out of Donny Masterton’s kitchen. Gabriel said that Donnie was his first boss and he considers him a mentor. Gabriel also cooked at Café Rama.

Gabriel’s passion for cooking comes from his grandmother, who opened his eyes to the world of food when he was very young. A remarkable cook, he would help her in the kitchen every week when she made Sunday meals for the family. His first food memory was his grandmother making the Spanish dish Fabada and also a delicious Beef Wellington fillet. In fact, her food takes on an almost mystical reverence whenever I bring it up.

A gifted chef with a talent for integrating flavors, Gabriel trained in the acclaimedPeruvian kitchens at both Malabar and Central Restaurante. Both restaurants earned spots on Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants this past year. Malabar captured the number twenty position, while Central Restaurante took the top spot for the second year in a row.

Over the past decade, the chefs of Peru have worked together to dominate the global culinary scene, taking 3 of the top 5 spots on Latin America’s 50 Bestin 2015. Collectively, the culinary elite celebrate 9 restaurants on the list this year.

With Pedro Miguel Schiaffino at Malabar, which is known for Amazon fusion cuisine, it was all about ingredients and simplicity. Schiaffino is a renowned researcher and trendsetter for his use of ingredients from the Amazon never used before in haute cuisine.

Gabriel also thrived under Virgilio Martinez, who takes everything to the limit with his Avant-garde Peruvian cuisine. His restaurant, Central, offers a 17-course tasting menu set by elevation and was inspired by his many expeditions through the Andes. His 50 seat restaurant is maintained by a staff of 61.

When I remarked on how beautiful his small plates are, he replied that he likes small plates because it allows the customer to enjoy so many different dishes and flavors. “Many dishes can get boring after just a few bites”, he remarked.

Here is the 11-course tasting menu we sampled:

Beef Carpaccio with antigua mustard crust, parmigiano reggiano, arugula with a champagne-dijon vinaigrette, served with home-made potato chips.

Seared dumpling stuffed with shrimp and ginger, with a sesame soy jalapeno vinaigrette, black sesame seeds and fresh cilantro.

Peruvian style ceviche, with halibut, kiwi, sweet corn, glazed sweet potato, served with  a fried wonton.

Slightly cured salmon with fennel yogurt, black sesame seeds, and avocado.

3 Burgers: lamb with swiss cheese and oven dried cherry tomatoes; beef and cheddar with beer bacon; beef with coriander seed blue cheese and caramelized onions.

Slow roasted portobello mushroom with oven dried tomatoes, garlic confit, goat cheese and basil.

Chicharron crusted shrimp, with mango-chipotle sauce and avocado with leche de tigre.

Five-chile braised rabbit sope with fresh cheese, cumin beans, pickled radish and red onion.

Tandoori grouper with asian green beans and soy bean sprouts.

Grilled rib eye with chile ancho butter, chimuchirri buttered mashed potatoes, grilled asparagus and zucchini.

Chocolate ravioli with mascarpone honey cream, strawberries and vanilla ice cream.

While all of the dishes were really good, we LOVED the lamb burger, the dumpling, the grilled rib eye and of course the chocolate ravioli the best.

What does Gabriel like to eat? He says he craves Tacos and all the greasy stuff. He also loves Foie Gras, Sushi, Chocolate, and Meat, not necessarily in that order. In fact, he eats just about everything except beets.

In San Miguel, his favorite places to eat are Andy’s Tacos, The Restaurant, Sushi Gami, Tacos en Mesones, Mi Vida, Nextia, and Mariscos Frescos.

When asked what type of cuisine he likes to cook, he said “I respect all types of cuisine. I’m inspired by recipes I know won’t fail and adjust them to my own taste.” He said he favors Schezwan, Peruvian, Japanese and Greek food.

He stays on top of food trends on the internet, devours cookbooks cover-to-cover, and eats.

He uses the freshest ingredients he can get and buys all of them from local producers. He expects to change his menu about every two months.

Gabriel has a taste for wine, red in particular, and is educating his staff in hopes that they will acquire a passion for wine as well. That’s a work in progress so for now, whenever a customer has a question on wine, he comes out to the table.

As a note, Mesones 58 did not have Chardonnay in their cellar the night that we were there. We’re certain that will change. In fact, when we offered a few suggestions for improving two of his small plates, Gabriel was more than eager for our feedback. That’s one of the things that will make him successful; he’s open to new ideas.

One thing I learned a long time ago is that the most important things in the kitchen is approaching everything with confidence. When I asked him what the hardest dish to cook is, his comeback was “with the right preparation, everything should be easy.”

When he’s not cooking for his girlfriend Catherine or at Mesones 58 (Wednesday – Saturday from 5 PM), he hires out as a private chef. You can email him at chefgabrielo@gmail.com or contact him by phone at 415-115-1304.

In the mean time, we’re headed back to search his kitchen.

We know where his spoon is. We’re looking for his magic wand.

Buen Apetito!

↧

The Best Kept Secrets in San Miguel de Allende

October 25, 2015, 6:03 pm
$
0
0

Recently, I was surprised to discover that a friend, who has lived in San Miguel for over 17 years, didn’t know about Cava Sautto. Imagine the look on her face when I took her upstairs to check out the wine cellar.

Don’t ask me why, but Cava Sautto is still one of the best kept secrets in San Miguel.

I asked around about all of the places that I ultimately put on this list. More often than not, people knew little if anything about these treasures. If you’re a regular reader of this blog, you’re already in the know about some of them.

Secrets are always hidden in the most unlikely places; here are some of San Miguel’s bests that are just too delicious not to share.

Buen Apetito!

Cava Sautto
Hernandez Macias 59

This wine store, hidden behind the registration desk in Hotel Sautto, has a remarkable cellar that is stocked with well-known labels, including Casa Madero and other fine wines from Mexico, South America and Europe.

Want a bottle of Pingus 2006? Dominio de Pingus is a Spanish winery located in Quintanilla de Onésimo in Valladolid province with vineyards in the La Horra area of the Ribera del Duero region. The wine produced, Pingus, is considered acult wine, and sold at extremely high prices while remaining somewhat inaccessible. Hand over 20,300 pesos ($1231.83 to be exact) and it’s all yours at Cava Sautto. It’s the most expensive wine that Cavo Sautto sells.

You could spend hours hanging out in the cellar studying labels but you’ll have more fun taking them home and tasting them.

I love champagne and at Cava Sautto, you get three bottles of the Cava bubbly for the price of two. Cava is probably the most Champagne-like sparkling wine outside of France and I was introduced to it two years ago at Cava Sautto. It’s 189 pesos a bottle.

Another secret? Cava Sautto has a wine fest every February. Along with many of their top wines, high-end liquors like Hennessy, Dewar's, Bacardi, Johnny Walker, Herradura, Chevas Regal, Bruxo, Grey Goose and other leading brands are featured at the show.

For 300 pesos, you can sample all of the wines or liquors at the event. At the end of the night, take your ticket stub into Cava Sautto and get a $200 peso credit for any bottle in the store. 

It’s one of San Miguel’s best parties. Mark your calendar for the next Cava Sautto Wine Festival on February 6, 2016.

Valeria is the General Manager of Cava Sautto and another Sautto family member that works at the hotel, along with the charismatic Ricardo Sautto at Bacco, another SMA secret that serves great Italian food. 

Ruben is always happy to help you and will go upstairs to grab a bottle of wine for you if you don’t want to make the climb. It’s worth it though. You never know what you’re going to find.

Cava Sautto is open 7 days a week: Monday - Friday from 10 AM-8 PM, Saturday from 9 AM – 10 PM and Sunday at 11 AM – 4 PM.

Don Santos Tacos
Clavel 8 off Refugio Sur

One of the most amazing things to me is that I have a Mexican friend who grew up in SMA and an American friend that lives within blocks of this restaurant in San Antonio and neither one of them knew anything about it and these are people who LOVE TO EAT.

As with a number of the streets in San Antonio, Clavel is not marked. Turn left on Refugio Sur and go down a few blocks until you get to a colorful fruit store on the corner that says San Antonio at the top. Take a left down the narrow, cobblestone street and Don Santos is in the middle of the block on the left.

Don Santos earns its accolades with authentic Mexican food at this location and a satellite atthe Tianguis on Tuesday.

It could be called the Tale of Two Tacos; Don Santos famous Taco de Costilla and the other taco; Taco de Res. So this is another little secret: The Taco de Res is THE BEST BEEF TACO IN SAN MIGUEL.

The thin strips of beef are cooked in a pile of intestines and chorizo. It’s so well flavored and tender you can’t stop eating them. Honestly, I could eat the beef right off the grill it’s that good. I planned to have just two and ended up eating five. That’s a record for me.

Heap on a mound of onions, cilantro and some of their remarkable salsas. The red salsa is particularly popular, made with tomatillos and cascabel chiles. Try all of the salsas; it will give you an excuse to eat more tacos. It will also get you thinking about the salsas and wondering if they don’t actually make the tacos exceptional as well.

We went at 6:00 PM and they were just starting  to prepare the food. We left and came back at 6:30 PM and there was a long line out front. Obviously, the locals have the inside track on when this place opens.

There are several tables inside the restaurant where you can eat. Families often take up the communal tables, with couples and singles tucked in wherever they can find a seat.
Weekend nights are crazy so you might just want to order them to go. We were the only gringos in the place. Cost: 9 pesos each.

Pozole
Food tent at Iglesia de Nuestra Senora de la Salud
Calle Insurgentes

When the weather cools off, I want a bowl of soup.

This, the first food tent in front of the church, is filled with locals getting their morning Pozole fix and mingling with friends, family and even this solo gringa who made conversation with just about everyone the Sunday morning I was there.

Hominy is featured in a comforting pozole; a broth that’s populated by chunks of pork and add-on garnishes such as onion, radish, lime and oregano. It’s frequently served as a celebratory dish at special events including quinceañeras, weddings, birthdays and New Year's celebrations or in this case, as a ritual after mass.

Cost: 40 pesos.

Tamales La Chappis
Insurgentes by Templo del Oratorio de San Felipe Neri in front of the fountain

I hate tamales. That was until today.

Street Chefs Maria de la Luz Tovar Hernandez and Educardo Alonzo Zarate Cruz have been making some of the best Tamales in SMA, taking the stand over from Maria’s sister five years ago.

Tamales are cornmeal dough stuffed with a variety of fillings that's then wrapped in cornhusks and steamed.

What makes this tamale so good besides the fact that I liked it is the masa and filling of pork and green chilies were perfectly balanced, flavorful and moist, and they didn’t need any extra salsa or toppings. You see, that was part of the problem. I always had tamales that were dry. These tamales are offered several different ways and they usually always sell out.

The other blissful half of this breakfast in the square is watching San Miguel come alive in the morning. An 8 pesos experience that’s pretty darn hard to beat.

Camaronicto
Hidalgo and Calzada de Luz

I call this place the most retro seafood bar in San Miguel. It’s a hole-in-the-wall but it’s packed, especially on Sunday.The kitchen is nothing more than a taco cart that’s parked in the front of the room with fun food on the menu like this ball glass of beer that’s surrounded with mini shrimp. Like a typical kid, it’s tempting not to dunk them.

A popular spot with Mexican locals, this restaurant also sells a legendary shrimp cocktail of shelled, cooked shrimp in a spicy cocktail sauce. It’s served in a tall glass and topped with a mountain of fresh vegetables.

One of these days, I’ll save up my appetite and go in for two, thereby fulfilling another fantasy that only seafood can bring to an off-the-coast city like San Miguel.

Taqueria Gonzalez
133F Calzada de la Estacion

One of San Miguel’s best-kept secrets, this restaurant, located down from the bus station, has some of the best Tacos al Pastor in San Miguel. Let’s just say it runs a close second to the king; Andy’s Tacos in Centro.

The marinated pork is slow cooked on a vertical rotisserie and not picked off until it is close to perfect; perfect as in caramelized and slightly crunchy. Top it with the colorful orange chimichurri sauce made with vinegar, oil, garlic and Chili de Arbol and you get the fiery aftertaste that pastor lovers hunger after.

Its Mexican street cooking as it should be: fast, cheap and fabulous.

Open from 6 PM - 3 AM. Cost: 10 pesos.  Count your blessings and your change.

Venta de Chicharrón 
Calle San Antonio Abad # 20 A

This unknown shop with no name has seen long lines of locals anxiously awaiting their favorite addiction, fried pork skin, for over 20 years.

Simmered in vats of fat that will barley fit inside the tiny kitchen at the back, you can buy a portion that’s almost bigger than you are for small change. Healthy? No but who cares? Everyone in the line is smiling.

Chicharrón is a stronghold in Mexican cuisine so dig in. I like the variety with the meaty bits still attached (Chicharrón gordito) and there’s always a pile in the case out front corner to tempt your taste buds.

So why is this Chicharrón stand more popular than all the others? It’s always so fresh.

I can sum up this indulgence in three brief words: drool-worthy, affordable and habit-forming. 

You do the math. Nothing this good should be this cheap.

Dona Bola
Calzada de la Luz and Calle Amado Nervo 1A

Doña Bola is one of the most authentic Mexican restaurants in San Miguel. It’s on my A list of places to take people who want to see the real Mexico.

Starting out as a street stand, part of the appeal is that it’s only open on Sunday. They stay open until they run out, which is almost always by noon.

So what’s the secret of this soup kitchen? It’s home cooking where the recipe, ingredients and flavors have stayed the same over the years.

It’s packed with Mexican families and with locals outside the front door who have large Tupperware containers ready to carry it home. Dona Bola does a sizeable carry out business.

Doña Bola buys 50 kilos of tripe a week. They also use pork trotters, a.k.a. pigs feet, which now appear on menus all over New York, L.A. Chicago and San Francisco.

They start the cooking process 3 days in advance. The condiments that top this hangover cure are dried red chili peppers, jalapeños, onion, limes and cilantro. As usual, I always overloaded the bowl.

It's a time-honored restaurant that will not be found in any of your guidebooks.

Proof that word-of-mouth marketing works? By the time we left, the line was halfway down the block but don’t let that discourage your pursuit of happiness. They move pretty fast when grandma starts yelling rápido!

Fiesta Flags
Is there a fiesta in progress? Just look up and if you see the endless lines of colorful papel picado, the party’s on. There will likely be at least a half a dozen people running down the street to join in.

Whenever I see papel picado, it instantly makes me happy.

Papel picadois Mexican folk art with common themes of birds, flowers and skeletons. The colors selected are linked to specific holidays; orange for Dia de Los Muertos and this red, white and green commemorating September 16th, Mexican Independence Day.

So what’s the big secret about something we see practically every day?
PAPEL PICADO IS THE LEAST EXPENSIVE GIFT WITH THE BIGGEST RETURN ON INVESTMENT.

Everyone loves these flags and recently I’ve been giving them out to everyone. Imagine being gone for months and coming home in the middle of the night to find fiesta flags strung throughout your house. That generated an endless round of smiles. Just a little something for her office, I recently gave a set to someone who was more excited about the fiesta flags than the 5 star restaurant she was scheduled to eat in that night in Mexico City.

You can buy them atPapelería El Iris, San Francisco 16, but prior to Dia de Los Muertos, they are sold in the tents at the top of Insurgentes by Iglesia de Nuestra Senora de la Salud. Cost: 15 pesos.

Go to the first tent on the top of the steps on your left where Angelita has them in every size and color. 


Across the way, at the top of the steps to your right, Karla, who is also selling sugar sweets, owns Papeleria Yareli at Ave 1 de Mayo #63, Fraccionamiento Palmita de Landeta, and has a variety of decorative fiesta flags with very unusual patterns.

Buy me a set to hang in my kitchen and I’m already cooking for you.

Buenos Aires Bistro 
Mesones #62

Did you know that Buenos Aires Bistro teaches tango lessons every Wednesday night? This is news to a lot of people, including me.

Ezequiel Agreda is the instructor and at these group tango lessons he can make anybody dance the tango and look good while doing it. No small task. Just ask Chef Mariano Alvarez, who is speaking from personal experience.

* 7pm Beginner's Group Class; for people that have never danced tango and want to start; 

* 8pm Intermediate Group Class; for people that have already been introduced to tango before and want to build on what they have,

*9pm and onwards; open dance floor to practice what was taught that night.

Each class is just $20 pesos; Buenos Aires Bistro subsidizes the rest of the cost of the lesson which is for Ezequiel's time and experience; it is a way of giving back to the tango community and promoting the tango culture.

Eating at Buenos Aires Bistro after burning off all those calories during your tango lesson? Try something light and new on the menu; a yummy Birria salad with caramelized apples and a balsamic vinegar reduction.

Food for thought? Yes, I’m still thinking about the short ribs a week after I ate them.
More on Buenos Aires Bistro and Chef Mariano Alvarezin a November post.

Gelatería Dulce Fusión 
Calle Relox #6


Which is better, liquor or ice cream?

You don’t have to make that decision with this gelateria opening on Relox near the jardin. They also have another shop in Tequisquiapan in Querétaro state.

Alcohol and ice cream are made for each other with flavors like Cabernet, Merlot, Malbec, Whiskey, and Tequila.

No waiting until happy hour to get your fix with these tipsy scoops; they’re open at 10 AM if you want to get a really early start.


Don’t worry. It’s 5:00 somewhere. This one’s on me at 28 pesos a scoop. Salud!


Posada de la Aldea
Ancha de San Antonio 15

Most of us know that you can go to the pool at Posada de la Aldea, so what’s the big secret? You’re likely get a private concert while you’re exercising.

On the top floor of the hotel, overlooking the pool, there is a grand piano where many of San Miguel’s best pianists’ practice.

Cost of the swim: 60 pesos. Cost of the concert: FREE!

 Now, if only I could get that group of mariachis from the Jardin to come over.

Tequila and Mezcal Tastings

Need something entertaining to do when guests come into town?

You can book a tequila or mezcal class with a minimum of three people for 600 pesos each at the Rosewood Hotel’s 1826 Tequila Bar. Alex, the resident Tequilier (tequila sommelier) helps guests to learn more about the 120 tequilas and 20 Mezcals they offer. We love this bar for its range of selections and its’ stylish surroundings.

You can also arrange for a Mezcal tasting at La Mezcaleria, 47-A Correo. Monica and Alexander, a young couple from Mexico City, have created a attractive space of their own design and a menu of different Mezcals. We sampled four brands: Espadin,Tobalá, Tepestate and Cuixe. If you have a large group, call them in advance at 415-121-5354.

Mercado Central SMA
Codo 36, corner Ancha de San Antonio y Calle Nueva

25 vendors will be selling their produce, flowers and other goods at this new market scheduled to open November 1st.

Alejandro Ochoa, who has been selling his vegetables on the front steps of the old Espinos market for over 15 years, was just awarded the first stall.

So, who says nice guys don’t finish first?

El Tucan
Hernandez Macias #56

I’ve been eating flautas at the best little dive in SMA since I arrived so what’s the secret? Alex always made his flautas with corn tortillas. I recently ordered them with flour.

Flautas with flour tortillas = comfort food equivalent to a Chicken Pot Pie.

The bonus? They are literally covered in a mound of fresh vegetables which is on par with a large side salad.

Got to love this homemade 2 X 1 at 35 pesos. Regular orders are 5. I can only eat 3.

Day of the Dead

As both the restaurants and the cemeteries await their annual Day of the Dead embellishments, here is a little known fact:

A day before the holiday, families are often cleaning the graves and preparing for their celebration. It’s the best time to go if you want to get interesting photographs and talk to the locals about the holiday traditions.

I met some inspiring people last year and plan to meet up with them again this year.
As I continue to connect, they are letting me in for a more intimate portrait of what the holiday is all about.

I’ve been building a Day of the Dead altar for over 30 years and consider it the most sacred of holidays with the most extraordinary traditions.

My favorite holiday in Mexico, I watch “The Book of Life”; a movie celebrating Day of the Dead. It was one of the picks at the Guanajuato Film Festival’s this year where I saw it in Spanish. I didn’t understand all of it but it didn’t matter. The message was transparent and visually illustrated through the splendid animation. You can purchase a copy at Juan’s Café, Relox 37, for 100 pesos.

Casa de Cocinas Day Trips

So what’s the secret on Michael Coon? We all know he’s a world renowned food and travel expert; the former Travel Director and Co-Creator of the Culinary Institute of America World's of Flavor tours.He also does outstanding culinary tasting at Casa de Cocinas every month and conducts tours to many of Mexico’s culinary centers like Mexico City and Oaxaca.

Well, now he’s leading day trips and overnight tours. I for one am partial to these mini vacations. You can get on Casa de Cocinas mailing list by emailing Michael at insideroute@aol.com

I recently went on the day trip to Ex-Hacienda Jaral De Berrio; a celebration of Mezcal and Mixiotes amid the exquisite architecture and ruins of the hacienda. He works exclusively with the staff there to provide an authentic and historical experience. The tours are small, personal and reasonable.

So what’s another one of Michael’s best kept secrets these days? He will lead a trip to Casa Madero in 2016.  

I’ve already signed up. Have you?

ZUMO

I am captivated by the contemporary take on Tacos al Pastor created by Gabriel Ferrant, Chef de Cuisine at San Miguel’s newest restaurant, ZUMO, Orizaba 87.His version uses grilled red snapper from Ensenada with achiote and a simple corn taco base.  
In addition to having some of the finest food in San Miguel, you’ll also get one of the best views.
For reservations, call Cindy at 01 415 152 0489.
More in a post on ZUMO in November with their talented triple trio: Chef Ferrant, Stewart Haverlack and Vanessa Villegas.

Jicama Tacos
La Azotea
Umaran 6

I can’t tell you the number of people I’ve talked to over the past 6 months who have never been to La Azotea.

The architect behind the most popular taco in SMA, the Jicama Taco, is Chef Jose Maria who has ruled the kitchens there for over 20 years.

So how many Jicama Tacos does he serve in a year? 15,000 and counting. We’ll see if another popular appetizer, the pollo popper, hits that number any time soon.

Another secret? They have the best wine pour in town. 60 pesos a glass for my favorite, the house wine. Really.

Birdie's Burgers

With a December opening on the horizon, Birdie’s Burgers can’t come soon enough.

Birdie’s Burgers was spawned from the popularity of burger night at The Restaurant, Calle Sollano #16. This one is the In and Out which was so good I had to go back the following week for another one. 

The name comes from The Restaurant’s logo; Chef Donnie Masterton’s daughter drew the bird when she was just six years old and it’s been part of the Masterton brand ever since.

With many burger joints creating oversized patties, I tend to gravitate back to the classic, which is what Birdie’s is going to be. 

                                                                                                        Photo: Birdie's Burgers

Think Apple Pan, In and Out and Shake Shack with a 3-4 oz. thin patty. I’m celebrating the thin patty because you get the perfect balance of meat, toppings and bun in every bite.

Want a Double double with grilled onions? There will be plenty of selections. The depth will be pulled from what is piled on top of these simple patties. Just like The Restaurant, super-fresh ingredients are the foundation of Birdie’s signature taste.

So what’s a Birdie’s Burger going to taste like? I think it's going to be the kind of burger that makes you keep saying to yourself: just one more bite. Suddenly, it’s disappeared and you have no clue where it went.

On the bird watch. Stay tuned.
↧

The Circle of Life: Dia de los Muertos 2015

November 8, 2015, 8:17 am
$
0
0
I grew up observing All Saints Day on November 1 and All Souls Day on November 2. Some years later, after several trips to Mexico, I decided to celebrate Dia de los Muertos instead. The holiday was more reflective and celebratory.

For 32 years, I’ve put up an altar. It has always made me happy and peaceful but this year was different. No longer an outsider, I was pulled in the high spirited celebration and it was exhilarating. At times, I felt like I was in the animated fantasy-adventure The Book of Life, which I saw and loved at the Guanajuato Film Festival this past fall.

The Dia de los Muertos celebration in San Miguel de Allende was never recognized to be among the best in Mexico. Experts say you have to go to Patzcuaro or Oaxaca in order to get the real high points of the celebration. I can’t imagine a holiday more meaningful than the one I just experienced last week.

Perhaps it was because I immersed myself in all the traditions preparing for it. Throughout this process, every day brought great joy and new discoveries. I was moved by the simplicity of it all. It was though I woke up and finally got it. 

In September, it was one fiesta and parade after another so I was spiritually prepared for a new round of celebration.

Prior to the holiday, I made several trips to the cemetery of Our Lady of Guadalupe at Camino Antiguo al Panteon and the San Juan de Dios Cemetery at San Antonio Abad and Muertos. 

San Juan de Dios Cemetery had not been decked out like this for years. It was beautiful. What hit me was that everything about the preparation was carried out with such immense joy and anticipation.

There was a sense of festivity throughout the weekend and when it was over, there was not the usual let-down. I packed away my altar with the same love as when I put it up. The serenity that took hold of me the week before Dia de los Muertos was there that day. In fact, I’m still feeling it a week later.

I spent so much time at the sugar shacks on the top of Avenida Insurgentes in awe of the alfeñique figures that all of the women there knew me by name.

I stayed out well past midnight and got up early the next day with the same enthusiasm I had the day before. There was no sleep for the living that weekend … or the dead.

I ate Andy’s Tacos at 11:30 PM instead of 7:00 PM. and got a different take on street food as its approaching midnight.

Watching the children interact with their parents, you were continuously traveling back and forth on the fine line of roaring with laughter and crying.

I loved the music, where mariachis and local singers like Yoremem Jocobi performed songs that were favorites of those who came back for a visit… just for the night.

Families danced on graves. I closed my eyes long enough to make sure I wasn’t dreaming and then I danced with them.


Much to the family’s delight, I helped carry water and wired pots of fresh flowers too big to stand up on their own. I hugged hard and long at the end of the day and never let go until the cemetery closed. No pun intended but for me, it was almost an out-of-body experience.


As a photographer, it was magical. 

I photographed the catrina parade and created images that have real meaning for me personally. Long after it is over, the holiday will still be with me.

As with just about everything in Mexico, food is a major part of Dia de los Muertos.

When you leave food at the altar, your dearly departed come back to enjoy the aromas. The holiday heightened my sense of smell and I was aware of every scent around me from the oversized bouquets of marigolds to the open bottles of tequila and mezcal. I never paid attention to that one little detail before; that the Dia de los Muertos world smelled this good.

I spent a lot of time thinking about the food that I would want on my altar besides Michael Coon's Okonomiyaki pancake and SMA tacos. I even wrote a letter to my son about it.

Dear Tommy:

When my soul returns for the night of Dia de los Muertos, you better have something really good on my altar.

Large quantities of bacon would be nice. Key Lime Pie, chocolate and chardonnay, fried chicken, ice cream, tacos al pastor, ribs, a 3’ steak, gumbo and cornbread, bread pudding. You know… the usual.

Remember, I can eat anything now, not that I didn’t before, so feel free to pass on a few of your own pleasures. I taught you to appreciate good food and besides, Mama always loves a surprise.

Tequila and Mezcal would be good…they’re probably what killed me in the first place.

If you’re going to do it right and make this culinary love in go on all night, here are a few more I found lately that you can add to my stash:


Homemade Ice Cream with Yerba Mate from Chef Mariano Alvarez at Buenos Aires Bistro


The Chilaquiles tower from Chef Gaby Green at Aguamiel


Artisan Cocktails from Mixologist Miguel Bastida at ZUMO


Mole de Olla; Short Rib from Executive Chef Marko Antoine Cruz at B'UI - cocina de campo


Chocoflan from La Casa del Diezmo


BBQ Pork Panini from Dana at the Market


Huevos Mexicanas WITH Salchicha Siciliano from Café Oso Azul


Deep Fried Strawberries from Chef Laura Buccehri atLa Cucina di Afrodita


Pina Ice Cream from Gelatería Dulce Fusión 
 

Bags of sugared Churros from outside Mercado Ignacio Ramirez


French Fries and Cosmos from Hanks New Orleans Cafe and Oyster Bar (yes, you read it right…my favorite happy hour combo)

As a tradition of my own, during the month of November, I cook meals that my dearly departed loved to eat.


I happily overdose on Chinese because it was my mother’s favorite. 


I grill a steak or two or three because my dad was an expert on the BBQ. 


My brother loved tequila so that gives me an excuse to overindulge for 30 days. It’s also my birthday month; a reason to continue the celebration until Christmas.

During Dia de los Muertos, I spent a lot of time in restaurants eating and drinking with friends. Feasting together brought an additional significance to every day of the celebration.

La Vida es Buena!


Buen Apetito!
↧
↧

ZUMO: Great Food Comes With A Million Dollar View

November 14, 2015, 2:59 pm
$
0
0
When Stewart Haverlack makes up his mind to do something, he can’t just do it like everyone else. It’s got to be done first-class. So is his latest project ZUMO, the high-end restaurant in San Miguel de Allende at Orizaba 87.

I’ve went to ZUMO the first time for the soft opening in April and the last time on Tuesday for the premier of Tapas Tuesday. ZUMO still has its visual and gastronomic chops but a lot of things have changed since my first visit…

The rooftop: A once sweeping space, the rooftop has been redesigned by Stewart’s partner Vanessa Villegas to showcase not only a breathtaking view of SMA but also a beautiful dining and separate bar area, luxury seating with a fire pit, a flower and herb garden and an open kitchen so you can watch the Chef Action Experience. You’ll get a birds-eye view of what’s going on in the kitchen when you book the chefs table, now one of the hottest tickets in San Miguel. 

Tapas Tuesday: Tapas and artisan cocktails are served every Tuesday night from 7:00 – 10:00 PM. The menu changes weekly and the fun comes from watching Mixologist Miguel Bastida produce his astonishing liquid potions. You name the ingredients and he’ll create a cocktail worthy of a call for seconds.

Sunday Brunch: A Sunday Brunch will begin in December. I can’t wait to see Chef Ferrant’s modern take on old standards like Eggs Benedict and Huevos Rancheros.

5 course menu: With a 7 course tasting menu offered for $850 pesos, ZUMO has added a 5 course menu for $650 pesos. This would cost three to four times more in New York or Chicago and at least double in Mexico City.

Finely constructed dishes that look too attractive to eat, but smell too good not to, will bring you back to ZUMO whenever you’re craving great food. Here’s what we found on the menu the day we went:

Wild Mushroom Ceviche 

Smoked Marlín garnachas with pico de gallo and avocado sauce with lemon

Mexican mixed Corn Ezquite with epazote mayo, queso chicharron dusted with chili powder

Conde soup with Mexican sausage, baby squid, black beans, crispy jalapeño tortilla strips and fresh Oaxaca cheese aioli

Chicken Barbacoa with chili poblano, parmesan risotto and fried bean quenelles


Carlota margarita mousse cake with pomegranate seeds


Coconut candy with lemon foam

Chef Ferrant pulled out all the stops that day with the Red snapper marinated in achiote “pastor style” with roasted pineapple and a Serrano chili sauce. It’s his contemporary take on Tacos al Pastor, my favorite Mexican dish.

Although I requested a specific Mexican style tasting, Chef Ferrant peppers his menu with international dishes including his personal favorites from both Asia and Italy. He says that he’s been a little homesick lately so you’re also likely to get cuisine from his home country of France as well.


His resume is impressive…

Born in Paris, he has lived and studied cuisine in the cities of New Orleans, Morocco, Buenos Aires, Madagascar, Columbia and Montreal where he worked at Le Pied de Cochon.

He cooked at the Hotel Condesa in Mexico City, moved to Huatulco where he headed up the kitchens in a number of major hotels; Azul Profundo at the Camino Real, Don Quijote at the Barcelo Premium Hotel and was Executive Chef at the Quinta Real. He then headed to Oaxaca to join forces with Hotel La Casona del Sotano and open De Todos Los Santos, consistently ranking as one of the best hotel restaurants in Oaxaca.
Of course, I was not surprised to find out that he also worked as a sous-chef at The Restaurant. Many of San Miguel’s best chefs have been trained by The Restaurant’s owner, Chef Donnie Masterton.

Chef Ferrant has been experimenting lately with molecular cooking so the next time you go, you are likely to get a liquid croquette on your plate. He loves how they explode and the pure essence of the ingredients invade your palate. How about disappearing transparent Raviolis? Yes, at ZUMO, expect the unexpected.
One thing about ZUMO that stands out is the world-class service. You just don’t find this attention to detail everywhere in SMA like you do at ZUMO.
The team, starting with owner StewartHaverlack, includes Architect, Interior Designer and partner Vanessa Villegas; Chef de Cuisine and partner Gabriel Ferrant; General Manager Cindy Buhle, who was educated and trained in Switzerland, Taiwan, and Miami; line chefs Jose Manuel Yepez and Raymundo Gutierrerz; master Mixologist Miguel Bastida; server Jonathan Fabian Pareja and the woman-of-all-trades, Ana Maria Aguilar. Together they are the force that attends to every whim and comfort you may have while you are there. It’s truly all in the details with this team and my first thought was hooray for luxury. May it never, ever die.
Stewart Haverlack is the reigning maestro of approachability, which explains a lot as to why he heads the ZUMO team.
He was the Senior Vice President of Paula Leduc Fine Catering in San Francisco, heading up a staff of 600 employees including 60 chefs. They catered to A-List clients in entertainment and business and executed over 400 events annually including 75 high-end weddings.
He moved to scenic Puerto Vallerta in 2004, and opened Boca Bento, a 180 seat, fine dining restaurant which specialized in Asian Latin flavors and was rated as one of PV’s top restaurants. In 2010, he moved to a 240 seat restaurant on the beach called El Dorado and successfully continued the restaurants’ 50 year history, winning awards and customers from all over the globe. He also started a catering business, Plush Catering and Events, which he ultimately sold to his Chef, who continues to run it today.
After ten years in Puerto Vallerta, fighting the hot and humid summers, he was ready for a move and San Miguel de Allende was a welcomed change.
In a very short time, ZUMO has established itself as a fine dining superstar in SMA. The best hotels in town send their guests to ZUMO. ZUMO currently has a mix of 40 % international travelers and Mexico City visitors and 60% locals.

In addition to a very active Social Media campaign run by General Manager Cindy Buhler, ZUMO uses local influencers like Klaudia Oliver to create the buzz needed to promote a restaurant of this quality. But what has been essential in ZUMO’s drive to #1 on Trip Advisor is word-of-mouth advertising. Just ask Brenda Sexton and Gregory Nye, who recently did a SMA Wine Club event at ZUMO with over 75 participants. Customers fall in love with the total ZUMO experience.

Stewart credits the restaurants design to partner Vanessa Villegas, who received her Master’s degree in Interior Design in Milan, Italy, at which time she was also the architect for a winery in Tuscany. Vanessa likes a clean style, doing a blend of classic with a twist of modern. She has always loved grey because it’s a great contrast for any accent color and also gives a nice elegant and relaxing feel throughout the restaurant.

Vanessa has a amazing eye and what has served as a centerpiece for this well-designed eatery is the mixed collection of art.

ZUMO initially talked with Wendy Moyer about the idea of inviting local artists to display at ZUMO. Many well-known artists show their work at ZUMO, including Anado McLauchlin. Interested clients are put in touch with the artist when they are ready to buy. ZUMO does not charge a commission on any of the pieces; it’s their way of giving back to the artistic community in SMA.


Stewart and Vanessa make all the decisions together for the restaurant, blending her design experience with his restaurant expertise. The results have been impressive. ZUMO is well-dressed down to the Reidel glassware, the Villroy and Boch china and the gorgeous Italian flatware.


Scores of people will tell you that you haven’t really seen San Miguel until you’ve looked at it from the rooftop at ZUMO. I call it the restaurant with the million dollar view.


When I was at ZUMO in the afternoon, both the clouds and downtown SMA were the reflection in my wine glass. I imagined what they would taste like and savored every last drop in the analysis. When I was there at 7:00 PM for Tapas Tuesday and looked out on all the lights of San Miguel, it took my breath away.

Another one of the elements we love about ZUMO is Mixologist Miguel Bastida. Starting as a bar helper in Cuernavaca when he was just 14, he has risen through the ranks; did a stint at Rosewood, Patio 3 and Hotel El Palomar before landing at ZUMO.


The imagination behind the infamous “Flaming Zumo”, a combination of Mezcal, apple liquor, fresh pear and orange and chili ancho, the drink is an upscale version of the perfect margarita. Miguel also made a Yin Yang, a combination of two drinks:Watermelon and Vodka and Lime, Mint and Tequila. I was mesmerized.


What’s on Miguel’s cocktail menu changes daily and he adapts his drinks to the taste of the amuse bouche; the time at which the cocktails are first served to the guests as an introduction to the dinner.

Miguel likes NANXO Mezcal (which is also the choice of Chef Ferrant) and Tequila Herradura Reposado when creating agave specialties. The wiz kid of ingredients, he likes to macerate his own bitters and make infusions using fresh herbs and fruits in season. He also uses chilies and their oils to give the drinks a distinctive taste. We think his cocktails are unmatched.


Stewart Haverlack is a trained sommelier and with the help of expert wine purveyor Arael Gómez Tello of Arggot Del Vino, who has access to over 600 diverse wines, they have positioned 40 labels on ZUMO’s wine list including wines from Mexico, Argentina and Chile and old world wines from France and Spain. Wines generally range in price from $500 - $5,225 pesos a bottle and handcrafted cocktails from 160 – 200 pesos but you can get a drink or wine-by-the-glass that is competitively priced with other fine dining establishments in San Miguel. I was offered a beautiful Carmen Chardonnay from Chile, which was exquisite.
Ensenada is the main source for ZUMO’s produce but they also buy locally from purveyors like Leo, who is in front of Luna de Queso during the week. On the day I was there, a sizable delivery of baby vegetables, lettuces and herbs arrived. No one was more excited to see them than Chef Ferrant, who was already visualizing what he was going to create from the small, multi-colored baby carrots that were in the mix. He ultimately decided on a short rib with demi-glace and sautéed carrots in piloncillo. I, for one, was sorry I missed that meal.
ZUMO’s rooftop comfortably seats 22 people for dinner but they have additional space on the floors below to seat up to 60. They also have an intimate, private room for 10 and can accommodate 150 people on the terrace for cocktails. I have my eye on the celebrated chef’s table which seats 5.
 ZUMO is open for dinner Tuesday through Saturday, with seating’s at 7:00 PM and 9:00 PM. 
ZUMO has a catering menu and do on and off premise weddings, openings, rehearsals and other celebrations. Who better to cater your party than the guy who pulled off 400 A-List events?
A year from now, ZUMO hopes to add a wine cellar and a complete herb garden. They also expect to open a three room Bed and Breakfast shortly with a gourmet breakfast and dinner as part of the entire luxury experience.
There are only a handful of restaurants in SMA that have it all: great food, creative drinks, world-class service and a million dollar view to match.

ZUMO is at the top of that list.

Buen Apetito!

ZUMO is located at Orizaba #87 in San Miguel de Allende, Gto, Mexico. Phone 415 152 0489  zumosma.com
Open for dinner Tuesday – Saturday, with seating at 7:00 PM and 9:00 PM.
↧

Get Your Merry On: Local Holiday Gifts for Food Lovers

November 28, 2015, 2:20 pm
$
0
0
You don’t have to take a trip to Mexico City to purchase Christmas gifts for your favorite food lovers. There are places here in San Miguel that have one-of-a-kind gifts you wouldn’t find any place else.

From dining out and cooking lessons to a Chef’s Table experience at a food festival, here’s a list of gifts that will make your special food lovers sparkle and shine.
Lesson #1 when holiday shopping: You can’t keep these gifts for yourself no matter how much you love them.

Savor the hunt and Buen Apetito!

Buying memorable experiences…

Dinner Out

What’s the ideal gift for food lovers? Dinner out at their favorite restaurant. Try these celebrated spots for a truly joyous, holiday experience:


 In downtown SMA:
The Restaurant at Sollano #16
http://therestaurantsanmiguel.com/
Sunday, Tuesday, Wednesday from 12 to 10pm and Thursday, Friday, Saturday from 12 to 11pm

Share a variety of the appetizers – all of them exceptional; Shaved Brussels Sprout and Kale Salad; Hamburger night Thursday; Pineapple Margarita and the Coffee and Ancho Chili Braised Pork Cheeks. Don’t forget the desserts.
Chef Donnie Masterton consistently delivers on everything he creates. Look for his new restaurants, Birdies Burgers and Tacolicious, to open after the first of the year.

In the Country:
B’ui Cocina de CampoatKm 2 Camino a San Miguel el Viejo, C.P. 37700, San Miguel de Allende, Gto. Phone: 415 688 0021.
https://www.facebook.com/buicocinadecampo
I call it “The B’ui Experience” because I was captivated, not just by the setting - in stunningly beautiful Otomi - but by everything; from the superior food and wine, to the extraordinary service and the state of its’ simple, country elegance. From start to finish, you can easily do three hours here.
We had the most incredible experience AGAIN at B’ui this past Sunday. Order the tasting menu for the best culinary experience and value. For wine the Espacio en Blanco Chardonnay from Valle de Guadalupe or the Casa Madero 2v, 50% Chardonnay, 50% Chenin Blanc from Parras Coahuila, Mexico are splendid choices.
We think Chef Marko Antoine Cruz is one of the best chefs in SMA. You will too.
In San Antonio:
Zumoat Orizaba 87
http://zumosma.com/
There are only a handful of restaurants in SMA that have it all: great food, creative drinks, world-class service and a million dollar view to match. ZUMO is at the top of that list.

Part of the pleasure of this experience is the incredible staff. You will be completely wowed by the service.
Open for dinner Tuesday – Saturday, with seating at 7:00 PM and 9:00 PM. Soon to be open for Sunday brunch.Order the tasting menu any night or go on Tuesday night just for Tapas and Artisan Cocktails.

This striking dish is Chef Gabriel Ferrant’s Conde soup with Mexican sausage, baby squid, black beans, crispy jalapeño tortilla strips and fresh Oaxaca cheese aioli.
Something new…

La CanicaCalle Pila Seca #2

Chef Bricio Dominguez’s latest street food restaurant with partner, Chef Paco Roncero, a well-known Michelin star chef from Spain, is enchanting. They landed in a beautiful, old home on Pila Seca and put together a fun menu that changes weekly.

Delightful back patio with lights strung above to remind you that twinkle is what you do when you’re dining with your best foodie friends at SMA newest restaurant.

The merriment starts here…

La Azotea at Umaran #6, is the place for a party, large or small. An attractive rooftop with killer views, La Azotea is one of our favorite spots because of the tremendous staff and its signature dish -- a taco shell made from jicama that is filled with lightly-breaded shrimp and topped with fried leeks, chipotle mayo and a tamarind sauce.
For people-watching, the list of personalities who frequent this high-style eatery goes on and on.

An edible Christmas…

La Lonja Carniceria at Mesones 33 and Colegio 21

Love Hansen’s Prime Rib but want to cook it at home? You can order any meat from La Lonja to make that special meal for the person you love.
Open 7:00 AM to 6 PM, they also have home delivery. Steaks: T-bones, rib-eyes, fillets, New York; ground-beef, sausages, lamb-and-pork cuts; and poultry: chicken, ostrich and turkey.
From Your Kitchen:

You’re such an incredible cook, no reason not to make something mouth-watering and box or bottle it up for your special Foodie.
Buying experiences with built-in delayed gratification:

Cooking Classes:
Chef Michael Coon at Casa de Cocinas
Chef Michael Coon teaches cooking classes, does food tours, Mexican day trips and has magnificent tasting dinners in his kitchen every month. Michael has traveled just about everywhere and his knowledge of world food is significant.
The theme of this particular dinner was tequila and his menu boasted some pretty superb tequila combinations.
Get on Michael’s email list. Write him atinsideroute@aol.com.
Chef Laura Buccheri at La Cucina di Afrodita
Phone: 415-124-2435
https://www.facebook.com/LaCucinadiAfrodita

Laura has the wonderful ability to create dishes such as this homemade cocoa tagliolini with walnuts, gorgonzola sauce and mesquite smoked bacon. It was an unusual combination of ingredients but the flavors worked so well together.
Call Laura for private or group cooking lessons. She specializes in desserts and I can personally recommend every one of them. I’ve tried them all.
She also conducts culinary tours of Italy. You can email Laura at
laurabuccheri@hotmail.it

                                                                  Photo: El Petit Four website
Chef Paco Cárdenas at El Petit Four
Mesones 99-1
http://elpetitfour.com/

This was the first cooking class I took in San Miguel and still one of my favorites. In addition to learning how to make many classic Mexican dishes, Paco takes you to the market and around San Miguel to meet the food vendors he buys from. I still use the same vendors today. The minimum to open a class is 4 people; maximum 6.
The Chef’s Table Experience: SMA Food Festival
The chefs table at the SMA Food Festival was the hottest food ticket in San Miguel last year. $100 USD for a multi-course meal and you pick the chef.
Create a clever I Owe You to tell your favorite food lover you are treating them to this experience.
Look for a confirmation of the dates on http://www.smafoodfestival.com/ . They sold out early last year so be sure to book right away. This is #1 on my own wish list.
Hot Air Balloon Ride: Globo San Miguel
http://www.globosanmiguel.com/
Want to get an aerial view of beautiful SMA? Make it a champagne flight followed by breakfast at the Rosewood. This is my idea of lofty living. Gift certificates are available.

Contact Guadalupe Garza for additional information. reserva@globosanmiguel.com

Sabores San Miguel atParque Benito Juarez


Tell the kids to start saving their pesos and treat you to the best family food experience in San Miguel, Sabores San Miguel. They will be hard pressed to spend $15.00 USD which will get you 10 tastings.
The festival will be held again this year in mid-June, the same weekend as the Fiesta de los Locos. Look for more information on http://www.saboressanmiguel.com/
Sketching Classes: Susan Dorf
Do you daydream about keeping a sketching journal with all of your favorite food and restaurants? Take a class from Susan Dorf who publishes her sketches in Atencion San Miguel each week. Susan swears she can teach anyone to draw, even me.

Email susan@susandorf.com for information and to register. www.susandorf.com
Don’t forget to package the gift with lots of colored pencils, pens and a beautiful sketchbook from one of the many markets around San Miguel.
A trip to the Food Capital of Mexico: Oaxaca
For years, I've been told that the food in Oaxaca was the best in Mexico but I had to see for myself. It took just one plate of dark, rich, and wonderfully sweet and spicy mole negro at Catedral Restaurante and Bar in Oaxaca to convince me.

Food lovers will also enjoy the markets in Ocotlanon Friday and Tlacolula on Sunday. Indigenous people from the villages all over the central valleys of Oaxaca come for market day. You will be seduced by the smells, the sights and the sounds.
This trip is inexpensive:
A flight on Interjet, my favorite airline in Mexico, is usually under $100 each way from Mexico City. Interjet Website

Grab a room at Casa Colonial for as low as $45 USD. This bed and breakfast is in an ideal location and a short walk to downtown. You’ll love the communal breakfast in the morning with others from across the globe. http://www.casa-colonial.com/. Want to splurge? You can also book a room at Casa Oaxaca, the #2 hotel in Oaxaca and home to Casa Oaxaca Restaurante.

You can also take a Wednesday cooking class at Seasons of my Heart Cooking School with Susan Trilling for just $85.00 USD which includes a trip to the Etla market. www.seasonsofmyheart.com
Gifts with instant gratification…
Charitable Giving
Giving to a charity is one of the BEST ways to celebrate the holidays. My favorites are:

Nourish Mexican school children through programs at Feed the Hungryhttp://feedthehungrysma.org/
Celebrate the fact that you are giving a family their own kitchen to cook in at Casita Linda. http://casitalinda.org/en/

While you’re at it, a great gift to give yourself is to volunteer at Feed the Hungry or Casita Linda. Nothing outshines the gift of your time.
A REAL Christmas Tree

There is something heavenly about waking up in the middle of the night to twinkling lights and the smell of fresh pine. Size the tree perfectly to the person you are giving it to. At Costco. $900 pesos.

Reindeers
15 Pesos will get you an adorable little reindeer and a hug from Guanayadra and her mother Erica.

In the Jardin every afternoon until Christmas. Skip that cup of coffee and you can buy two.
High spirited gifts…
Wine Festival: Cava Sautto Wine Fest at Hotel Sautto,Calle del Dr Ignacio Hernandez Macias 59
http://www.cavasautto.com/

Reserve wines are in abundance at this show as well as high end liquors like Hennessy, Dewar's, Bacardi, Johnny Walker, Herradura, Chevas Regal, Bruxo, Grey Goose and other leading labels. For 300 pesos, you sample any of the wines or liquors featured at the event. At the end of the night, take your ticket stub into Cava Sautto, Hotel Sautto’s wine shop and you get a $200 peso credit against any bottle in the store. 

Mark your calendar for the next Cava Sautto Wine Festival on February 6, 2016.
Give your Foodie a bottle of Casa Madero wine from Cava Sautto when you gift them.

Cerveceria Dos Aves 
www.cerveceriadosaves.com

This brew, made in San Miguel, won major awards this past year in the 2015 Mexico Professional Beer Competition, with gold medals in bothPale Ale and Stout Imperial.
Dos Aves makes a Christmas brew every year, so look for it in stores around San Miguel.http://www.cerveceriadosaves.com/san-miguel-de-allende.html

Make a Christmas Party Kit: Put bottles of Dos Aves in a wooden case and package it with handmade coasters, and vials of glitter and confetti.

Gourmet Food, Wines and Liquors…
Carnevino at Ancha De San Antonio 24 has a wonderful, extensive selection of wines, liquors and high-end meats from Sonora. You’ll need at least an hour to explore all of their offerings.

Carnevino also carries the exquisite Carmen Chardonnay that I had at ZUMO the other night

Visit La Europa at Canal 13 and create a Bellini kit with your favorite Champagne or Cava and seasonal fruits.
Ask Felipe about other distinctive tequilas and mezcals on their shelf including San Miguel’s own TequilaCasa Dragones.
Your favorite food lover can’t have too many…
Festive Gifts: Abrazos at Zacateros 24
http://sanmigueldesigns.com/

There should be a sign on the door: Smiles Happen Here! This place is an experience.
Nothing shouts MEXICO more than Abrazos. When you walk in, you’ll be tempted to throw a fiesta, or handfuls of confetti, buy something rosa, build an altar, count your primos, down a bottle of tequila, set off fireworks, ring the church bells, sing with the Mariachis, plant a chili garden or play the Loteria with your favorite group of Lucha Libres.

Abrazos carries a full line of kitchen gifts including festive aprons and chef coats. You’ll fall in love with the Mexican designs like Jardin de Frida, Elotes Amarillos, Chiles Fiesta Azul, Dia de Los Muertos, even festive Pinatas.

It’s my happy place when I want to be reminded of why I am in Mexico. Owner Patrice Wynne will likely be there to inspire your choices.
Gift up to persuade your food lover to come back for another visit because three weeks was simply not long enough. They’ll love you for reminding them that the party’s here in Mexico and happens every day.

Floor Cloths


Beautiful and artistic floor cloths by Joy Wesson. www.joywesson.com

Kitchen Gadgets: Blime at 50 B Esp. Nunez

Blime is a one-stop cooking and gadget store. From garlic crushers and whisks to a good set of pots and pans,it’s so nice to finally have a kitchen supply store in SMA. If you can’t find it here, ask them to order it.
Blime is opening another store on Ancha San Antonio soon. Ask for Marisol.
Spices and Chilies: A Granel at Puente De Umaran 27
When I want fresh, this little store, up from the Mercado Ignacio Ramírez, has everything: seeds, chilies, sweets, spices , grains  and many other raw ingredients. 
 
Load up a basket and give it to that food lover along with a recipe or two. 
 
Something Extravagant: Sollano 16 at Sollano 16
http://www.sollano16.com/

Beautiful, elegant gifts for your favorite food lover including Chamba, the handmade black pottery from Colombia and milky white Astier de Villate from Paris.

Stunning coffee table books from all over the world. My go-to shop when I am looking for something extravagant. You’ll be surprised at the prices...in a good way.
Ceramics and Pottery: Arte y Artesanias Paloma at Ancha de San Antonio #28

Lovely and unusual ceramics and tableware from all over Mexico. This shop is tiny but has plenty of items for all the food lovers on your list.
Fair prices along with first-class service. It’s another one of San Miguel’s best kept secrets.
The Galleries at Fabrica Aurora

Explore the Galleries at Fabrica Aurora and find great food gifts like these antique bowls from Le Spezie.
Also check out Cantadora Cantera (415 154-8302) and Algarabia (415 154-7505) for attractive gifts you wouldn’t find at any other store.
Bilingual Food Shopping Guide: Biblioteca Pública de San Miguel de Allende at Insurgentes #25
How do you say Pie Crust ready-made in Spanish? This little book converts all the culinary terms to make for instant Spanish. From meat cuts, vegetables and fruits, to the most exotic spices, you’ll want to take this book with you when you shop. 150 pesos.

Tacopedia

I loved this book from the first time I saw it and realized what a resource it is. Tacopedia explores everything about Mexico’s favorite food, the taco, including all of the different traditions and regions in Mexico. You’ll also get 100 authentic Taco recipes adapted from the Mexican best-seller; from fillings and tortillas to salsas and sauces.
My favorite part of this book is the wonderful graphics, photographs and illustrations. I say they make the book. What do you think?

I purchased my copy from Michael Coon at Casa de Cocinas. Email him at this address for availability.  insideroute@aol.com.
Handpainted Tableware: Ceramicalopez at Recreo 10-A
Ceramicalopez sells eye-catching, handpainted tableware.

I love this little oval dish with a matching coffee cup to use at breakfast, my favorite time to plan the day. Fill the cup with peppermint sticks and hand write a special holiday note.

Cazuelas: Josefina at Losa Barro Local #3, Mercado Ignacio Ramírez
A cazuela is as important as a cast-iron pan is to a Southern cook. 

These clay pots are great for cooking soups, beans or stews. It holds a steady heat allowing foods to cook both slowly and evenly.
It’s no wonder that Cazuelas are collected by Mexican families and handed down through the generations. Some people are so attached to them they even give them a name. I call mine FLACO trusting that the calories will burn out of whatever it is I'm cooking.

This stand, inside Mercado Ignacio Ramírez, sells cazuelas for the best price.

Claudia’s Pies
Too lazy to cook? Give your foodie a day off and order Claudia’s pies. Call 415-151-0146 or email her at campanita1985@live.com.
My favorite: this Lemon Meringue. She also sells at La Pulga; next one December 13th.

Chocolates: Joferej
This is one of my favorite places to hang out, enjoy a cup of high-end hot chocolate from Tabasco and buy a box of top quality chocolates to gift your fellow chocoholics. Open from 10 AM -8 PM daily expect Sundays 11 AM -8PM.

How do you get a chocolate jolt? In addition to hot chocolate, they also serve Chocolate Espeso (thick chocolate) with bitter at 70% and semi-bitter at 60% for 45 pesos.
Ask for Alejandra. Online orders at https://www.johfrej.com/
Pottery: Santa Rosa de Lima
mayolicasantarosa.com

Make it a day trip and go to Santa Rosa de Lima, Camino Real s/n, Santa Rosa de Lima, Gto, México. Phone. +52 01 (473) 102 50 17 
One of the most beautiful Mexican pottery stores in the area, you can find anything and everything for your food lovers’ kitchen.
While you’re on your way out of town, stop at the town bar, Alto’s Cantina, for a bottle of delicious orange flavored Mezcal. You’ll wonder how anything this good can cost just 80 pesos.
Something Sweet: Artesana Boutique
Open for a month, this new little shop, tucked away inside the Rosewood Hotel, sells Salvador’s baked goods including the most decadent chocolate that looks like a taco topped with fruits and nuts.
Designed by Tables and More out of Guadalajara, the shop is drop-dead gorgeous and has outdoor seating.
You’ll likely find the coffee crowd here as they also serve Starbucks for the same price as the Starbucks in town.

Can’t Find What You Want? Time to Hit the Department Stores

Liverpool - San Miguel 
Liverpool recently started carrying both Williams Sonoma and Pottery Barn, my go-to Christmas stores back in the states.

Plaza La Luciérnaga, Libramiento José Manuel Zavala Zavala 165 4A, La Luciérnaga, 37745 San Miguel de Allende or shop online at:
http://www.liverpool.com.mx/tienda/cocina-y-hogar/

El Palacio de Hierro - Antea Lifestyle Center Queretaro atPaseo de la República, Juriquilla, Querétaro, Querétarohttp://www.elpalaciodehierro.com/
Great gifts for chefs including one of my favorite lines: Emile Henry.
The TAJINE POULET will set you back $2,690.00 pesos but think about the dinner you’ll getthe first time they use it.
I’m already savoring every bite just thinking about it.
↧
Search

The Best Street Food in San Miguel de Allende

December 6, 2015, 9:26 am
$
0
0

It’s good news for street food lovers everywhere; Hong Kong’s street food vendors are listed in the Michelin Guide for the very first time. A new category was created because street food offers a greater culinary value. Just ask anyone who has eaten on the street and comes home with a pocketful of change from a 100 peso note.   

Mexico has one of the most extensive street food cultures in the world and some of Mexico’s best cuisine is found in the streets. Street food is a unique experience and a voyage into the center of a city’s culture.

Many people who want to try out street food in San Miguel have asked me how I know what’s good and safe to eat. I look for places that are crowded. In other words, eat where the locals eat. As a rule, I do not eat anything that I don’t see being prepared.

San Miguel’s street food scene is growing with new carts popping up everywhere.
Let’s face it, when you see chefs like Donnie Masterton eating at Andy’s Tacos or Matteo Salas wanting to stage at Don Santos Tacos, you know they’ve got to be good.

Need a few reasons to get up early or chow down late after an all-night fiesta with a bottle of tequila?

Here they are…and here’s to making it home by sunrise.

Salud and Buen Apetito!

Bautista Brothers Carnitas
Guadiana #2

If you saw carnitas being cooked in large vats of fat, I’m sure you wouldn’t make a steady diet of this street treat…or would you? The flavor is unmatched so you will be tempted.

Bautista Brothers is an institution in San Miguel. I recently was reunited with the original at Guadiana #2.

Guadiana #2 is the heart of the Bautista Brothers operation. The carnitas are cooked here, along with a house down the alley and up the stairs where you can also buy bones to make soup. You’ll never find it on your own. A local named Johnny, who knows everyone in the neighborhood but doesn’t live here, took me upstairs to meet Mota.

The tortas made here are so much better than the ones I eat at Tianguis de Martes. They come straight out of the fryer and into your sandwich. The bread is also made by a commercial baker and is like no other torta I’ve had in San Miguel.

Bautista Brothers has pop up stands all over SMA that serve late night and two stands at Tianguis de Martes that are serving when I get there at 9:00 AM.

The Bautista Brothers, Pedro, Mota and Flotino, took over the business from their father when he retired after 47 years. Mota’s son Antonio is aspiring to be a chef and is in culinary school in Queretaro. His youngest son, Augustine, who just turned 14, helps him out as well. Mota operates the stand where I eat at Tuesday market every week. Older brother Pedro runs the original restaurant at Guadiana #2. Flotino’s son Danny has the stand near San Antonio church…and the list goes on but one thing is for sure: everyone is related.

In a torta or on a fresh tortilla, carnitas is at the top of my list of the best street food in SMA. Now, let’s see if you can resist going back for seconds.

Pair the Torta with a Mexican Coca Cola for a 30 peso lunch.

Andy’s Tacos
Insurgentes and Hidalgo

If you’re the kind of diner who’s interested in the pedigree of your chef, try this one. Andy was written up in the Wall Street Journal last year and that’s more than other street chefs – or even chefs for that matter – can brag about.

Andy’s is the king of the street in San Miguel and both locals and tourists get a sense of that when the late night lines are five deep.

The mere aroma of Andy’s attracts aficionados who jockey for a plate of flavorful Tacos Al Pastor. This pork is marinated in dried chilies, spices and pineapple and is slow-cooked on a vertical rotisserie then covered with a spicy, red chipotle salsa.

Andy's is a favorite of partygoers looking for an after-hours feast and still intoxicated by the magic of the fiesta. 10 pesos each.

Don Santos Tacos
Clavel 8 off Refugio Sur

Don Santos earns its accolades with authentic Mexican food at this location and a satellite at the Tianguis on Tuesday.

It could be called the Tale of Two Tacos; Don Santos famous Taco de Costilla and the other taco; Taco de Res. So this is the secret: The Taco de Res is the best beef taco in San Miguel.

The thin strips of beef are cooked in a pile of intestines and chorizo. It’s so well flavored and tender you can’t stop eating them. Honestly, I could eat the beef right off the grill it’s that good. Heap on a mound of onions, cilantro and some of their remarkable salsas.

The peppery salsas have an indisputable kick that adds a whole other layer of flavor to the dishes.The red salsa is particularly popular, made with tomatillos and cascabel chilies. 9 pesos each. Opens at 6:30 PM nightly.

Note: As with a number of the streets in San Antonio, Clavel is not marked so this place is hard to find. Turn left on Refugio Sur and go down a few blocks until you get to a colorful fruit store on the corner that says San Antonio at the top. Take a left down the narrow, cobblestone street and Don Santos is in the middle of the block on the left.

Fonda Dona Reyes
Mercado Ignacio Ramirez

Dona Reyes is your beloved grandmother reincarnated. She’s owned this stand for over 46 years and she’ll fuss over you until you cry uncle and can’t eat another bite. Such is the case with the Caldo de Pollo con Arroz with a whole chicken leg and a bouquet of fresh cooked vegetables. Smother with chilies and condiments to ramp up the heat. You’ll get a jolt you’ve never experienced at breakfast before. 

Better than a sweater on a cold December morning, you get extra hugs for eating everything in the bowl. It’s mandatory; it’s your grandmother.

Who said you can’t get an adopted family and a warm meal for 50 pesos.

El Pato
Calzada de la Estacion 112

Mixiotes is the next best thing to your mother's pot roast; a traditional, pit-barbecued meat dish made of lamb that is cut with the bone and seasoned with pasilla, guajillo and spices like cumin, thyme, marjoram, bay leaves, cloves and garlic. It's then wrapped in small bundles and cooked in the ground overnight.

At this thatched-roof palapa at the end of Canal Street, Pilar and Jose Luis will convince you there is no better comfort food anywhere in Mexico and they are right. Mixiotes got my vote for the best dish in 2014 and it will get it again this year.

If it weren't for the location, this spot would have a line around the block every day. Take a doggy bag because it's even better the next day. 50 pesos.

Sierra Hamburgesas
Salida a Celeya 100 next to Pinturas Doal

Unlike most of the burgers sold on the street, these are 100% beef and taste pretty delicious, especially since I don’t get them cooked on the BBQ every day.
 
The picture was taken under the lights so it's safe to say it looks better in the daylight but Sierra does not open until 6:30 PM.

You’ll swear the french fries came out of the fryer at McDonalds. I want them extra-crispy and they gladly toss them back in the hot grease to pop the color up to golden brown. Like any culinary soft spot, I savor them one by one.

Get there when they open or you will likely have to eat standing up. Your choice of multiple toppings on the burger and a side of fries for 50 pesos.

Taqueria Gonzalez
133F Calzada de la Estacion

One of San Miguel’s best-kept secrets, this restaurant, located down from the bus station, has some of the best Tacos al Pastor in San Miguel. Let’s just say it runs a close second to the king; Andy’s Tacos in Centro.

 The marinated pork is slow cooked on a vertical rotisserie and not picked off until it is close to perfect; perfect as in caramelized and slightly crunchy. Top it with the colorful orange chimichurri sauce made with vinegar, oil, garlic and Chili de Arbol and you get the aftertaste that pastor lovers hunger after.

Its Mexican street cooking as it should be: fast, cheap and fabulous. Open from 6 PM - 3 AM. Cost: 10 pesos each. Count your blessings and your change.

Tacos Lupita Tacos
Section 3, Aisle 2, Tianguis de Martes

In many cultures, eating eyeballs is a food taboo but not so in Mexico. If you’ve already done all the traditional tacos, try an unlikely combination of cheeks, brains and eyes, piled on a tortilla and smothered in cilantro and onion.

Eating this portion of the brains and eyes does not guarantee that you’ll be smarter or see any better.

Savor every bite. If you swallow it too quickly, you'll miss the nuances.

Tacos Mesones
Corner San Francisco and the Jardin

Location, location, location. It’s no wonder they do an enormous business in the Jardin every night. You’ll get another version of pastor and you don’t even have to ask for the pineapple and fried onions.

I like pastor well cooked so ask them to blacken it on the vertical roaster for a bit longer than the usual. Add just a splash of salsa unless you want the heat.

Tacos Mesones own another cart that operates nightly on the top of Mesones. 27 pesos will get you a plate of three.

Tamales La Chappis
Insurgentes by Templo del Oratorio de San Felipe Neri in front of the fountain

I hate tamales. That was until I discovered street cooks Maria de la Luz Tovar Hernandez and Educardo Alonzo Zarate Cruz making fiery tamales laced with spicy, green chilies.

The tamales are offered several different ways and always sell out early so get there when the sun comes up.

The blissful half of this breakfast is watching San Miguel come alive in the morning as you savor every spicy bite.

Sunrise isn’t suppose to taste this good. An 8 pesos experience that’s pretty darn hard to beat.
↧

Chef Gaby Green: Nothing Tastes Better Than Experience

December 13, 2015, 6:38 am
$
0
0
Playing with the big boys isn’t easy but Gaby Green doesn’t think about it. She’s got a kitchen to run.

Chef Gaby Green is on top of her game at Aguamiel, her fifth restaurant and some say her best venture yet.
Gaby previously had three Fondas (traditional home food cafes) and then the very popular food truck with partner Jennifer Posner. That’s when I first met them. In between, Gaby has taught cooking classes.
People love her food because she uses the best quality local ingredients to prepare recipes she’s learned from her grandmother and mother, but does them with her own contemporary twist.
The name Augamiel is poetic, mixing honey and water, and is actually the first extraction from the agave before you make mezcal.
So what lands Gaby in the same group with SMA’s top chefs? She’s always looking to learn something new and creates dishes that you don’t find anywhere other than at Aguamiel. When I go there, I know I’m going to get something different.

Photo: Jennifer Posner
 
I started this post two months ago. It got slightly off track for a month. You see, Gaby and Jennifer left the restaurant in the capable hands of Gaby’s mom, Marcela and Jorge Flores (former general manager at The Restaurant) who managed the front-of-the-house, while they spent the month of November in Myanmar and Thailand taking cooking classes, chef-to- chef, and fine tuning the Asian recipes Gaby already had in her library.

Personally, I think that Gaby’s Asian creations are some of her best. Gaby has that innate feel for what flavors pair well together. She understands how to blend and balance flavors which is especially noticeable in Asian food.

When I visited Aguamiel for appetizers, Gaby prepared bites of:

Grilled Pepper with rice, raisins, nuts, olives and topped with pesto sauce.

Thai Pumpkin and Coconut Soup.

Dumplings stuffed with Wild Mushrooms, topped with Pine nuts and goat cheese mousse.

Grilled Pepper stuffed with Shrimp & Sautéed Vegetables, topped with Chipotle cream sauce.

All of the tastes were different and each had surprising flavors.

She also prepared a Mexican Mole Soup with Wild Mushrooms and Pork - seasoned with Chile Guajillo and Ancho. This dish was a work of art and ties with Mixiotes as my favorite dish in SMA. The soup was perfectly spiced and I was simply blown away by the flavors. It’s her Grandmother’s recipe. The pork she uses is a cut from the spine which is full of flavor on the bone. The mushrooms are all sourced locally and they use oyster mushrooms called setas and chantrells.

Gaby shops at different places like local farms such as Rancho Trinidad, also Casa Collectiva and the Saturday Farmer’s Market. She buys cheeses from Cristina Gerez at El Capricho and Remo and uses Rancho Viejo chickens. Other meats come from various local butchers and purveyors and are bought fresh every week. She knows that good ingredients are the key to Aguamiel’s success, like this spicy shrimp soup called Tom Yam Goong, that I recently had one Sunday morning.
Gaby was born and raised in Mexico City by Mexican and European grandparents. Both of her grandmothers were great cooks, from different cultures but with an excellent sense of food. In fact, everyone in her family cooks and they love to gather for large comidas to enjoy many different types of cuisines.  

She’s speaks fondly of her grandmother “I lived my first five years in my grandparents home. When I arrived from school, I would run to the kitchen just to be with my grandmother, with whom I loved to spend hours.  She had a stool for me in the kitchen and gave me a set of utensils. While we cooked, she would also play the piano and sing, waiting for meal to be ready. She taught me about ingredients and how to cook with love for others. She inspired me with her passion for food and life.”
Gaby had a successful career in film before she started cooking. Twenty years ago, she moved to San Miguel. Still in film, she brought the first art film festival to San Miguel. Cooking was always her other passion and she ultimately decided to change her path for something more personal that she could share with people.

Gaby’s Famous Flan is probably the most sought after dish on the Aguamiel menu. I know. I’m a huge fan and I really never liked flan.

Her most challenging project was whenGaby was hired to cater an event for 250 people and she was serving lamb. The client said they would provide the meat from their rancho but Gaby didn’t expect that she would receive the animal whole. She really had to sharpen up on her butchering skills that day.

Auguste Escoffier and Paul Bocuse, two European men who revolutionized the concept of food in different times have influenced her Modern Mexican cooking style along with Carmen “Titita” Ramirez, a Mayora (for those who don’t know, this name is given in Mexico to woman who achieve the perfection in cooking after years of experience in a private home, in the kitchen of hotels or the kitchens of politicians). She opened a restaurant in 1972, and is probably is the oldest promoter of Mexican cooking in the last 40 years.

Gaby also takes heart from Chef Rene Redzepi’s kitchen philosophies and finds Mateo Salas’ (Aperi, San Miguel de Allende) creativity and innovations very exciting.
 
Of course, her first hero was her grandmother, Francisca “Pachis”.

I find Gaby’s own kitchen philosophy inspiring; “I cook as if it is only for me.”
Jennifer was born and raised in Louisiana and has been coming to San Miguel for 35 years, full-time here for 8 years. She previously worked in corporate marketing and product management and mastered skills that are useful to the marketing of Aguamiel.
Jennifer says “The use of social media is a great way to keep us in front of our audience.  With so many good food options in San Miguel, it is important to help people remember you are out there. Jennifer built the Aguamiel website and posts weekly on their Facebook page.
A photographer, she also likes taking photos of the dishes and uses the photos to convince people to come in. We both recognize that the wow factor always comes down to food photographs.
Jennifer’s mother taught her to be a good host, so she greets everyone and wants to make them feel at home. She loves telling the guests about our menus and is happy to suggest a nice wine to compliment their meal.
Earlier this year, she attended a WSET certification program at the Napa Wine Academy and learned about wines from around the world. She tasted over 130 wines in just over a week. 
At Aguamiel, they have selected mostly old world wines from Spain, France and Italy and also serve wines from Valle de Guadalupe in Mexico. They just introduced a new wine list so you can sample most of their wines by the glass. They want to stay unique so they work closely with their wine distributors to find wines not offered in other restaurants in San Miguel. I enjoyed this rose the last time I was there.
Aguamiel’s client mix is 75% locals and 25% visitors. They have customers who come in multiple times a week.  They have been hovering in the Top 15 Restaurants on Trip Advisor for the past several months. Gaby has a very loyal following.

On Tuesday, their day off, they make no commitments. You might find them at the hot springs or having a dinner out. It’s their day to relax and get ready for the demands of another week.
Brunch and Happy Hour…
One of my favorite dishes from their brunch menu is the Chilaquiles Tower. What makes it notable, instead of a same soggy version of chilaquiles that we’re all use to, is that they use their handmade tortillas that are fried up fresh on Sundays so the dish is really crispy. Aguamiel makes their own salsa picante and build each layer with black beans and chorizo. They will create a vegan or vegetarian version of the dish if someone asks for it. It looks like it will become a stable because so many people have asked them to keep it on the menu.
For Happy Hour every month, they offer a different special from 3-5pm.  Sometimes it’s a drink and botanas and other months it is an early-bird dinner special. No matter the offering, it’s always a great buy. The day we were there, it was 2X1 Mango Margaritas and 3 different empanadas; one stuffed with corn, one with meat and one with cheese.
Aguamiel’s bartender Bernie made me the best tamarind margarita. It tasted like a margarita and that’s what I liked about it because most tamarind margaritas in SMA do not.According to Aguamiel, their secret starts with good tequila. It makes a big difference in the flavor (and the hangover). They use fresh ingredients in all of their margaritas.
We recently spent a late Happy Hour at Aguamiel for the 3rd Anniversary of Cerveceria Dos Aves and the release of Diablos, a Belgian Golden Strong Ale paired with some of Gaby's best Asian Botanas. It was all delicious and priced at $150 pesos.
Behind Gaby in the kitchen is David Ortega, who has been there since they opened and has a lot of restaurant experience and Juanita Chavez, who has been cooking with Gaby for the past 10 years. Gaby recently promoted dishwasher Luz Padron and is now training her to be the newest cook in the kitchen. I, for one, am really fond of restaurants that promote from within. It generates a major, key ingredient: loyalty.

When they’re not at Aguamiel, you can find them on the stools at Ciro’s Gorditas after a swim at Taboada. They like to support local restaurants, so you’ll probably see them out and about around town.

Gaby also likes to cook at home and always finds the time to make a great breakfast. She has the gift of preparing an amazing meal with whatever she happens to find in the refrigerator.  
 
Aguamiel’s 1st Anniversary is February 14th. Stop in Gaby’s kitchen to say hello.

If her smile doesn’t get you, her food will.

Buen Apetito!
↧
↧

Happy Holidays!

December 16, 2015, 6:19 am
↧

A Visual Feast: Bu'i - cocina de campo

December 16, 2015, 8:43 am
$
0
0
Did Chef Marko Antoine Cruz Sanchez deliver one of the best meals ever last Sunday?
 
A picture is worth a thousand words. Click on the photos to see the visual feast.
 
Buen Apetito!
 
Deconstruction Nopal Taco with Tortilla Powder, Hojasanta, Queso Fresco, Chicharron, Salsa Verde Gelee and Grasshopper
Tasting note: I’m not fond of gelee but this Salsa Verde Gelee was so peppery and is at the top of my list of the best things I’ve ever eaten.

 

Seared Tuna with Ajillo and Pineapple Pure



Yucca Tortita with Cuitlacoche Sauce, Black Bean Pure and Salsa Tatemada 


Black Bean Soup With Avocado Leaf, Goat Cheese Tempura and Truffle Oil
Tasting Notes: The cheese was deep fried; the soup was finished with Truffle Oil. Need I say more?

Liquid Quesadilla with Chile Poblano (Rajas), Corn and Cream

Heirloom Tomato Salad and a homemade Ketchup with Tarragon, Buddha Lime, Mint and Radish

Grill Portobello with Chestnut Pesto


Esmedregal with Peas Pure, Asparagus and Burre Blanc Sauce
Tasting Note:The Burre Blanc sauce IS THE BEST OF ALL SAUCES.

Picaña with Demi Glace, Potato Pure and Marjoram
Tasting Note: Now I know why demi glace is among the five mother sauces of classic French Cuisine.


Pavlova with Passion Fruit, Kumquat and Eureka Lemon
Tasting Note: This pavlova had a crisp outer shell and a soft, liquid-marshmallow-like center.

                                  L-R: Angel Avila Padilla, Chef Marko Antoine Cruz Sanchez, Owner Daniel Estebaranz and Gabriel Avila

 B’ui Cocina de Campo is located on the equestrian grounds at Otomi’s residential area outside of San Miguel de Allende. Km 2 Camino a San Miguel el Viejo, C.P. 37 700, San Miguel de Allende, Gto. Phone: 415 688 0021 The restaurant is open to the public. http://www.otomi.mx/bui.
↧

Two of The Best Events of 2015

December 19, 2015, 2:37 pm
$
0
0
We know how fleeting attention spans are in the month of December so we’ve decided to do shorts on two food events that made their mark on the social scene in San Miguel this month: The opening party for Bricio Dominguez and Paco Roncero’s La Canica and The California Wine Tasting organized by the Mexican office of The California Wine Institute. Both were 5 star events.

Once in awhile, I love to be spoiled. I like getting dressed up and being dropped into the lap of luxury;the magnificence of great wines, mezcals and fine chocolates. I find the grandeur of it all irresistible, especially in a celebratory month like December. Consequently, these events take the honors for two of the best events of 2015.
Life is a simple mix of eating and exploring. Drinking good wine is just the added bonus.
Happy Holidays and Buen Apetito!

La Canica Opening, Saturday, December 5
                                                                                    Photos: iPhone 5
 
The incredible opening party at Bricio Dominquez’s beautiful new restaurant, La Canica, Pila Seca #2, with partner Chef Paco Roncero is over. It’s back to business as usual at SMA newest restaurant but the feel-good factor remains. It was one of the best parties of the year.

We had a chance to meet VIP’s from all over Mexico including SMA’s new municipal Mayor Ricardo Villarreal and Fernando Olivera, Minister of Tourism for Guanajuato.

We felt right at home with Chef Bricio’s immediate and extended family which included partner and Chef Paco Roncero, SMA’s newest and only Michelin 2-star chefwho is also executive chef and director of the NH Collection Casino de Madrid and its restaurant La Terraza del Casino; of gastro-bars Estado Puro in Madrid, Ibiza and Shanghai; of restaurant Barbarossa by Paco Roncero, also in Shanghai; of Versión Original by Paco Roncero in Bogota; of the gastronomic multi-space Sinergias in Platea Madrid and of Sublimotion, the world’s most ground-breaking (and most expensive) restaurant in the Hard Rock Hotel in Ibiza.

So what does the old mansion look like after 7 months of work? It’s gorgeous and home to small rooms elegantly dressed in antiques with Mexican accents. The designs mix as well as the food.

Part of the charm of this restaurant is that everything has a very whimsical feel in the middle of its understated elegance. Chef Bricio Dominguez likes it that way. In fact, he grinned as he showed me the metal lunch buckets that the burgers are served in. Mine was a Hello Kitty.

They plan to change up the menu often. I sampled the Ceviche,Tempura Aspargus, Tortilla Soup with chicken and avocado and the Chicken Thighs with teriyaki and grilled watermelon. Portions are generous and can be classified as Spanish comfort food.
 
Burgers and Jazz will be a new feature starting in January. Look for a notice on Facebook when they start up.

Bricio also has an interest in Nextia and 13 Cielos where it’s all family business for SMA’s most celebrated chef foursome; Chef Bricio Domínguezalong with sons Chef Alonso Domínguez and Chef Luis Pablo Dominguez and nephew Chef Pablo Domínguez. They all cooked together at a chefs table at the SMA Food Festival earlier this year.

La Canica is a great addition to a growing base of fine dining restaurants in San Miguel.

I especially love the feeling that I just took a flight and landed in the heart of Spain.

California Wine Tasting, Tuesday, December 1, Hotel Nena

The restaurant community in SMA is another interconnected group and we were lucky to get an invitation to the California wine tasting organized by the Mexican office of The California Wine Institute which focused on educating SMA restaurants on California wines, some previously not available in Mexico.
I always laugh when I think about what a pure and simple life I would have led if it weren’t for wine. When Jorge Alarcon L, a young entrepreneur who doesn’t look old enough to drink, made the statement that he can get me any wine I want, I knew I had hit gold. I’ve been dreaming about some of them since I moved to Mexico. Certainly Kendall Jackson was on the list…and there it was.
There were many different types of people at the tasting and that was one of the things that made it so interesting.
The brands represented are listed below and yes, we managed to sample almost every one of them:
Constellation/Bodegas La Negrita: Twin Oaks, Woodbridge, Robert Momdavi Private Selection; La Castellana: Chateau St Jean, Souverain, Stags’ Leap, Sutter Home, Kendall Jackson; Arggot del Vino: Hess Collection, Hess Select, Cartlidge and Browne, Gnarly Head; Cepas Antiguas: Red Diamond, Motto, 689; Gallo Winery/La Madrilena: Apothic Red, Carnivor, Ghost Pines, Mac Murray, Louis M Martini Napa Valley, Louis M Martini Sonoma County; Vinoteca: Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars, Beringer; Vinos Wagner: Liberty School, Conundrum,Emmolo, Caymus; Viparmex: Schug, Leaping Horse
Following a tasting in the hotel courtyard with all of the wine vendors, we were led to the back of the hotel where a beautiful white tent was set up that looked straight out of Napa. Here we experienced seven additional wines with tasting notes from the vintner:

Barefoot Pink Bubbly:aromas of Mandarin orange and sweet jasmine mixed with subtle flavors of cherry, raspberry, and pomegranate.

Emmolo Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2009: Vanilla, honeysuckle and buttered toast notes that enhance the peach, pineapple, green appple, honeydew melon and mineral flavors of this Sauvignon Blanc.


Schug Sonoma Coast Chardonnay 2013:Low-oaked fruit; neat in lime, lemon, and green apple. Delicious and well-rounded, the wine delights a wide range of palates.  


Red Diamond California Pinot Noir 2012: Flavors of black cherries and red berries. A trace of spearmint compliments the flavors and ends with a crisp and long-lasting finish.

Souverain North Coast Merlot 2012: Dramatic aromas of boysenberry, vanilla, roasted coffee, and baking spices encounter elegant layers of plum and black cherry flavors. Smooth, rounded tannins; juicy and rich. The wine has an extended, flavorful finish and is full bodied.

Gnarly Head Lodi Zinfandel 2012: Blackberries on the nose with an intense, rich berry flavor that's just on the line of jam. Slight bit of toast and just a hint of spice. Rich, concentrated flavors. Long, enduring finish. 

Robert Mondavi Private Selection Central Coast Meritage 2011: Profound garnet black color with the aromas of dried berries and chocolate yogurt with a adaptable, dry and fruity medium body and nicely balanced cedar and nut highlight at the finish. A dead ringer for a top quality, red Bordeaux.

Another special treat was the advanced tasting of Dolcenero. Dolcenero, a chocolatier out of Mexico City,will be selling its remarkable candy in the old Casa Cohen when it opens up. Some say it will open in January and others say in the spring. Stay tuned.
Remember, if you can’t find a wine at Carnevino, Ancha de San Antonio #2, Jorge can get it for you. Impossible you say?
Don’t tell Jorge that because “IMPOSSIBLE” is not in the Alarcon L dictionary.
↧
Viewing all 317 articles
Browse latest View live
Search