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Hotel Matilda has done it again; not one but two of the best new bars in San Miguel de Allende. The Monkey Bar and now, the new Mui Ramen Bar, are both post-Covid versions of what a bar should look like in 2021 SMA: a stylish, modern classic that pours Casa Dragones and other high-end labels. You’ll love the daily cocktail menu at Mui Ramen Bar; many of the drinks are made with Sake. Don’t come here if you’re going to watch the clock; it’s a lazy day kind of place with an almost perfect vibe. It also has an outstanding, new Asian menu created by Hotel Matilda’s chef, Paul Bentley. Although the differences in its recent renovation are subtle, the exception is a signature, black and white Carp boldly brushed across the back wall. The painting grows on you so were thinking that someone really needs to give this mammoth catch a name. The rooftop patio is upstairs and hidden among the trees and flowering plants, making it totally possible to go into hiding for hours on end. It doesn’t feel like a hotel bar; an idyllic spot to waste away an afternoon. We know, we’ve done it three times already and were about to do it again today.
A home away from home, Mixologist/Manager Jon Vas is your host. We give the bar an added star as the service here is as near to perfect as it gets. It’s the kind of place you can go solo or with a crowd and there’s not many of those bars in SMA.
We ordered the Lazy Mango; the best new summer drink in SMA made with Sake, homemade mango calpi, sherry and chamomile syrup.
No cutting corners here – the quality of the cocktails and food is exceptional. Try any of the following dishes; we loved them all. Gyozos de cerdo/Wontons with pork, bittersweet sauce, spring onions and sesame seeds. Pan fried then steamed, the bittersweet sauce is the flavor standout in these dumplings. 5 pieces for $150 pesos.
A lighter but also filling appetizer: the Bao Pollo Frito/Steamed Bao bun with fried chicken, pickled carrot and cucumber, hoisin sauce and shiracha. We also got our fried chicken fix for the week. $90 pesos.
Shoyu Ramen: Pork and chicken broth with a perfect spice blend, ramen noodles, belly chashu, soy marinated egg, nori seaweed and garlic oil. A vegetarian option is also available along with three other types of Ramen. Surprisingly, because it often isn’t, the egg is perfectly cooked and served with a generous portion of pork. $200 pesos. Mui Ramen Bar Hotel Matilda Aldama #53, Centro 37700 Hours Tuesday - Sunday: 1:00 PM – 11:00/ Closed Monday. Chef: Paul Bentley Mixologist/Manager: Jon Vas

Trazo 1810

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Another gift from the gods at Riviera Maya - Chef Irving Canto, now the new Executive Chef in the kitchens at Trazo 1810. Chef Irving Canto’s resume speaks for itself – a graduate of the University Interamericana de Puerto Rico, he was a semifinalist for Mexico’s Cocinero of the Year in 2019. The Millesime award winner has also cooked with many great chefs in Mexico and Spain, including Roberto Ruiz, Carlos Gaytán, Jesús Escalera, Andoni Luis Aduriz, Kisco Garcia, Kiko Moya and others. Finishing strong with his exquisite presentations, this feast was fit for the ultimate food lover. There was a lot going on in every dish - textures played off other textures with an abundance of flavor profiles; all of them over the top. How much did we love this meal? We gave it an 11 – one extra point for his dazzling creativity. The menu:
Amousse: Almeja para de Mula, sofrito de chorizo con cerveza Allende, provolone ahumado, salsa macha/ Clam for de Mula, chorizo sauce with Allende beer, smoked provolone and macha sauce. The presentation reminded us of one we had at Central, Chef Virgilio Martínez Véliz’s restaurant, in Lima, Peru.
The fresh Asian flavor of Tiradito de atún, emulsion de ajonjolí, lemon grass/ Tuna tiradito, sesame emulsion, lemon grass.
Risotto de pera, vino rose, prosciutto y pecorino/ Pear risotto, rose wine, prosciutto and pecorino. This was one of the best Risotto’s we’ve eaten anywhere, including at a long list of restaurants that are famous for the dish.
Pesca, majado de hierbas, salsa de frijoles marinos / Fish, herb mash and sea bean sauce - an award winning dish and no surprise; it was one of our favorite plates of the night.
Short Rib braseado con cerveza Allende, puré de papa trufado con pancetta, zanahorias glaseadas/ Braised Short Rib with Allende beer, truffled potato mash with pancetta, glazed carrots. The Short Rib was so tender, it melted in your mouth, reminding you what Short Rib should actually taste like.
A Cheese cake de queso de rancho, salsa de vainilla con pimienta/ Ranch cheese cheese cake, vanilla sauce with pepper. This dish had the actual texture of cheese - the only one we’ve eaten in Mexico; more like a cheese course than a dessert.
“Se te antojo mi helado” - Crumble de chocolate, helado de pimienta schezuan, frutos del bosque/ Chocolate crumble, schezuan pepper ice cream, berries. The surprise spice was the Schezuan Ice Cream; we could have eaten it by the barrel. The Wines were all an exceptional choice; mainly consisting of whites we’ve never tried:
Vino Blanco Casa Magonni .Chardonnay /Vermetino (Mexicano) Chiaro ,Pinot Grigio Italino Lagrimas Sauvignon Blanc (mexicano) Viceversa Roble ,Tempranillo , Cabernet Sauvignon,Merlot (Español) Trazo 1810 is one of the most beautiful restaurants in SMA for al fresco dining. The 360 degree views are so amazing, you’ll want to sit on the rooftop and drink them in at sunset. We also love winter dining here; in front of a roaring fire, sheltered from the elements.
Trazo 1810 has always been one of our favorite restaurants in SMA and we’re delighted to say that it’s still on our list of the top five places to go in SMA, moving up a notch, thanks to an amazing chef who brings the magic of the Riveria Maya to this beautiful SMA kitchen. Savor the food - Chef Irving Canto’s cooking is so good that Trazo 1810 is on our call list: the restaurants we call to make sure the chef is in the night we want to go. After eating with two new chefs from Riveria Maya in the past two weeks, we’re now pulling for a third. One meal in and we’re already Chef Canto’s biggest fan. Trazo 1810 Hidalgo #8, Centro San Miguel de Allende Monday – Saturday: 8:00 AM – 12:30 PM 3:00 PM – 10:00 PM Sunday: 10:00 AM – 3:00 PM Phone: 415 121 3501 Executive Chef: Irving Canto

Lake Zirahuén

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Lake Zirahuén is one of Michoacán’s best kept secrets; only 39 miles from Morelia and 15 miles from Patzcuaro. The Purépecha called Lake Zirahuén the Mirror of the Gods; it’s one of the most crystalline lakes in Mexico. This fishing lake is bordered by fields of flowers but this time of year, the landscape was already showing its November face. The shoreline is peppered with boat docks and although no motorboats are allowed on the lake, occasionally someone will break the rules and you’ll see one.
Never judge a restaurant by its cover. Take your pick; these tin roofed structures are time worn but inside are menus of shoreline delights. I was instantly reassured when I saw a picture of da Vinci’s Last Supper nailed to the ceiling. It was overcast that day but we never paid attention to the gloomy weather. I lived within blocks of Lake Michigan most of my life so being around water again was that simple pleasure I had almost forgotten. Although the restaurants were showing their wear, the homes were painted in bright, Mexican colors.
There is pleasure in fishing – I remember, never in how many fish you catch although I can’t say size doesn’t matter. Finally, after putting down two enormous sailfish and a marlin in Acapulco and Cabo San Lucas in back-to-back seasons, I’ve got fish stories to tell my brothers so it was no surprise that the highlight of our trip was eating fish that were caught from the lake that morning – something we haven’t done in a very long time - and Magnum bars for dessert. It’s amazing how much patience you have when you’re looking for a Magnum bar in the middle of nowhere, although I never imagined eating fish and ice cream at the same meal.
Drink in the lake view from this small bar stocked with all the Mexican essentials - more than one brand of tequila. We were excited to taste Charales - a tiny, whole, crisp-fried fish, which are a specialty of the area; eating a new species was a cause for celebration. We also had several, small white fish; cutting slits in the fish was the key to cooking it quickly. The white fish were near textbook and if you’ve ever been to a shore lunch, you know that there’s nothing better than the flavor of fried fish cooked over fire and wood. Henry David Thoreau once said “Men go fishing all their lives without knowing it’s not the fish they are after.” Go for this magical, Michoacán moment, you’ll be surprised at what you find besides the fish.
El Gordo Restaurante Phone: 434 112 1272 Muelle General S/N Lake Zirahuen, Michoacán

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What’s our favorite summer menu? Tacos and Martinis! First Stop: A perfect Martini, made by Olivia Bar, at Casa No Name, a small, luxury hotel on Hernandez Macias #52; no longer SMA's best kept secret. Here, you’re in your own little world where the décor is chic in an understated way. You wouldn’t be in a hurry to head home once you land. Go early; you’ll pretty much have the bar to yourself. The recipe: Ketle One, shaken not stirred with plenty of ice, no vermouth and loads of olives. Second Stop: La Hija del Manantial for Chamorro Tacos with blue corn tortillas; one of Chef Aidee Prado’s specialties. The gourmet cantina and restaurant serves some of the same Mexican dishes as the original El Manantial at Barranca 78. La Hija del Manantial is conveniently located in town just a few steps from the Jardin. Our favorite spot is one of the two high tables in the window where the people watching, indoors and out, is premium. The original El Manantial celebrated its 100 year anniversary this past year (1920-2020). Olive Bar at Casa No Name Hernandez Macias #52, Centro, 37700 Phone: 415 152 1768 Hours: Tuesday – Thursday: 2:00 PM - 10:00 PM/Friday – Saturday: 1:00 PM - 10:00 PM/ Sunday: 1:00 PM - 6:00 PM La Hija del Manantial Correo #14, Centro 37700 Phone: 415 111 7431 Hours: 1:00 PM – 10:00 PM/Closed Monday

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SMA is finding out what Riviera Maya has known all along - Chef Daniel Camacho is one talented chef. The new chef at Casa Sierra Nevada in San Miguel de Allende is no stranger to the Belmond brand. He also runs the kitchen at Belmond Maroma Resort, which is temporarily closed for renovation. He’s in the process of redoing all the menus at Casa de Sierra Nevada, including the one at Andanza, which has more than a few surprises.
You can order many Mexican dishes with all the delightful extras but we ordered the Eggs Benedict with Short Rib; we’re a sucker for Short Rib, even in the morning we just discovered. When was the last time you had Short Rib, much less the perfect amount tucked under two poached eggs on melt-in-your-mouth Brioche topped with a delicate Hollandaise sauce? You can put this one in our top five breakfast meals in SMA at $220 pesos.
Order dessert, even at breakfast; it’s a must when it comes to Chef Ruben Yanez Hernandez’s pastries and cakes. In this case, but hardly an afterthought, was a beautifully decorated chocolate birthday cake for my friend Sally Reid. Of course, there’s also Churros on the side. Now, you get a double dose of sweet: Chef Annabel Ruiz Gonzalez, the Pastry Chef from Belmond Maroma Resort, is working with Chef Ruben Yanez Hernandez here in SMA while the resort is being renovated. Chef Daniel Camacho’s first job was in Spain, at the restaurant of Juan Carlos Galbis, the first chef to obtain a Michelin Star in the city of Valencia.Daniel went on to work six years at Banyan Tree Mayakoba and one year at Grand Hyatt Playa del Carmen before joining Belmond Maroma Resort in 2016. We got a sneak peek at their new dinner menu that comes out today and it’s impressive. We’ve always loved this restaurant; it sits in the middle of an indoor garden where the service is better than textbook. We think the food at Andanza just took a huge step up. Now all we have to do is figure out how to keep him in SMA. Andanza at Casa de Sierra Nevada, A Belmond Hotel Hospicio #35 San Miguel 37700 Chef: Daniel Camacho Pastry Chefs: Ruben Yanez Hernandez and Annabel Ruiz Gonzalez Daily: 7:30 AM – 11:00 PM Phone: 415 150 2018 All safety protocols followed/Tables have been spaced Masks required Health First certified by the city of SMA

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Wondering what San Miguel de Allende tastes like after a long pandemic? More delicious than ever since a slew of new restaurants opened during the lockdown. We published a list back in May and since then, Royoko, a new Japanese restaurant by La Unica owner, Tito Martinez, at Hernandez Macias #82 and San Francisco Steak House at San Francisco #11 are also open. Hold your breath because a lot more restaurants are scheduled to open their doors this year, putting San Miguel de Allende at the top of the list of places to eat in Mexico in 2021. Savor a cross section of exciting dishes that have been recently added to the flavor profile of what’s available in San Miguel de Allende. Here’s a list of some of our favorite new dishes to help get you started. Buen Provecho!
Corean Popcorn Chicken with Blue Cheese Ice Cream Fried Rice with Pekin Duck Kôuyīn Asian Eatery Apapacho Hotel Bajada del Chorro 11 esq. Recreo, Centro. Hours: Wednesday to Monday / 2 - 10 PM Chef: Marcela Bolano
Pear Risotto with Prosciutto and Pecorino “Se te antojo mi helado” with Schezuan Ice Cream Cheese cake de Queso de Rancho Trazo 1810 Hidalgo #8, Centro San Miguel de Allende Monday – Saturday: 8:00 AM – 12:30 PM 3:00 PM – 10:00 PM Sunday: 10:00 AM – 3:00 PM Phone: 415 121 3501 Executive Chef: Irving Cano
Stuffed Chilaquiles RAICES SMA Salida a Celaya, Sin Nombre, 37700 San Miguel de Allende, Gto/ Directly across the street from the Mobil station Daily: 9:00 AM – 5:00 PM Phone: 415 121 8532 Chef: Vanessa Romero Partner: Omar Campana, Sushi Gami
Chorizo Cecina Taco with Suckling Pig Sweetbreads Chicharron Taco Aquila Jesus #3, Centro Daily: 1:00 PM - 10:00 PM
Red Snapper Rustica Salida a Celeya #34 Daily 8:00 AM to 5:00 PM Phone: 415 121 1406 Owner: Eduardo Perez Calvo Manager: Ram Ramirez
Cream of Huitlacoche Soup Chef David Janke Cooking Classes School Calle Del Tesoro 23, San Antonio, 37750 Phone: 52 744 136 3963 The #1 Cooking School in SMA and the #3 Cooking School in Mexico is back to normal operations with in-person classes.
Eggs Benedict with Short Rib Andanza at Casa de Sierra Nevada, A Belmond Hotel Hospicio #35 San Miguel 37700 Chef: Daniel Camacho Pastry Chefs: Ruben Yanez Hernandez and Annabel Ruiz Gonzalez Daily: 7:30 AM – 11:00 PM Phone: 415 150 2018
Shoyu Ramen Lazy Mango Mui Ramen Bar Hotel Matilda Aldama #53, Centro 37700 Hours Tuesday - Sunday: 1:00 PM – 11:00/ Closed Monday. Chef: Paul Bentley Mixologist/Manager: Jon Va
Envueltos Guayaba Café Umaran Umaran #8 San Miguel de Allende 37700 Hours: 8:00 AM – 10:00 PM Phone: 55 4023 2625 Owner: Francisco Diaz
Pie de Lemon A.15- Animas Quince Nemesio Diez #2 San Miguel de Allende, GTO 37700 Phone: 415 121 7364
Vodka Martini Olive Bar at Casa No Name Hernandez Macias #52, Centro, 37700 Phone: 415 152 1768 Hours: Tuesday – Thursday: 2:00 PM - 10:00 PM/Friday – Saturday: 1:00 PM - 10:00 PM/ Sunday: 1:00 PM - 6:00 PM The recipe: Ketle One, shaken not stirred with plenty of ice, no vermouth and loads of olives in an oversized glass.

Andy's Tacos

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Andy’s Tacos Hidalgo and Insurgentes
Andy’s is a magnet for taco aficionados who jockey for one of the few seats at his taco cart each night for a plate of savory Tacos Al Pastor.
The pork is marinated in dried chilies and spices, then slow-cooked on a vertical rotisserie. Get the works: covered in his spicy, red chipotle salsa and thin slices of cooked pineapple. We need our weekly fix so you’ll find us here when he opens around 7:00 PM. It’s a great time to watch him caramelize the pork to the stage of almost-burnt perfection. When was the last time you had a meal this good for a few bucks? The ultimate of cheap eats in SMA, they’re a bargain at 14 pesos each - a plate of 3 for $42 pesos/ $2.10 USD.
On his day off, we talked Andy into sitting for SMA photographer, Gunther Maier, for his portfolio of SMA Chefs. Andy was the only street chef in the collection and a total show-off in front of the camera. Andy has also been featured in the Wall Street Journal.

Birdie's Burgers

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Just when I was certain that Birdies flew the coop and I’d be missing our favorite Burger and Fries forever, I discovered that you can actually eat Birdies in at The Restaurant when the crowds are not too crazy instead of taking it to go. We went there early, before the 2:00 PM rush.
The best news is:same burger/same menu/same Cañada de La Virgen beef/same gooey onions dripping down the side/same slice of super-crispy lettuce/same extra crispy fries/same price. It’s still one of our favorite burgers in SMA. The Restaurant Bar at the R Birdies Burgers and Tacos Chidos Calle Sollano 16, Centro, 37700 Phone: 415 154 7862 The Restaurant Hours: Daily: 12 Noon – 10 PM/Closed Monday Bar at The R Hours: Thursday – Saturday 6:00 PM – 11:00 PM Chef: Donnie Masterton

Bosco Gelato

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There’s nothing more refreshing than Orange and Mezcal gelato, especially when the cone is just as good as the gelato is. Both are made by hand at BOSCO Gelato.
Orange and Mezcal has always been the ultimate flavor pairing in my book. We’ve been obsessed with the combination since we first tasted a Mezcal Margarita back in 2014 that was served with a pile oranges.
BOSCO Gelato is a SMA business founded in 2019. We’ve also heard raves about the Spirulina ice cream; available for takeout from the BOSCO factory and the new store on Hernandez Macias, inside Plaza Macias. You’ll also love their version of chocolate chip.
Take a carton of BOSCO home because Couch + Netflix + BOSCO are the perfect summer combination, especially when the TV happens to be outside, right next to the BBQ. BOSCO Gelato Calle del Dr Ignacio Hernandez Macias 43 b San Miguel de Allende, Guanajuato 11:00 AM – 8:00 PM/Closed Tuesday -- BOSCO Gelato Calz. de la Estación 24, Estación F.F.C.C. 37759 San Miguel de Allende Phone: 442 109 8587 Monday – Friday 8:00 AM – 5:00 PM/Saturday 9:00 AM – 2:00 PM/Closed Sunday Factory: BOSCO Gelato Calz. de la Estación 49, Interior local #3

Cafe Umaran

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Café Umaran tops our list of the best new cafes in SMA. Located in the old sports bar at Mama Mia’s on Umaran, the space has been refurbished and is now one of the most stylish cafés in Centro. Café Umaran is part of a new complex under construction that will include three other restaurants: Carajillo, which has two other restaurants in Mexico City, Bar 33 and La Sirena Gorda.
Café Umaran comes to SMA by way of Metepec Toluca, where owner, Francisco Diaz, had a restaurant prior to Covid. Paco moved the entire operation to SMA and is doing what he does best again – making delicious pastries and breads. Many are priced between $10 - $37 pesos and since value is seldom paired with quality anymore, this is another reason to love Café Umaran - it’s affordable. Try the Envueltos Guayaba; the best new pastry in SMA.
Opening just two weeks ago, the café was packed in the middle of the afternoon and is working to expand the menu over the next few months to include new dishes. For now, the Torta de Cochinita is our latest obsession; a quick snack that’s priced at $50 pesos and served on their best, homemade bolillos. Including a variety of coffee drinks and teas, Café Umaran also serves Cerveza, Casa Madero and other high-end wines. The new menu will also include Mimosas – the single most important drink to jump start any morning. You can also grab a bag of bakery goods to go. Trust us, there’s nothing better than eating freshly baked croissants in your pajamas, especially when they’re priced at $23 pesos each. Café Umaran Umaran #8 San Miguel de Allende 37700 Hours: 8:00 AM – 10:00 PM Phone: 55 4023 2625 Owner: Francisco Diaz

PANIO

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We can’t get enough of Panio’s croissants and brioche; they’re the best this side of Paris. And just when we thought there was nothing better than this would-be-croissant, the Cruffin de Limon (they now make it sugared not plain), we discovered another favorite: a Kouign-Amann with homemade, vanilla ice cream. This Breton cake was described by the New York Times as the fattiest pastry in all of Europe. We’ve eaten it at least a hundred times since we discovered it; our favorite home dessert. Packed in tins for a ready-to-go meal, there are way too many dishes that look too good to eat.
The absolute best when it comes to home delivery, just-baked breads, right out of the oven, make it to your door in under an hour. We can think of a dozen reasons why Panio has made San Miguel de Allende a much sweeter place to live. Here are just a few of them. PANIO ATELIER Exit to Celaya #69, Centro, CP 37700 San Miguel de Allende, Gto Phone: 415 185 8750 PANIO Calle Correo #29 at the corner of Recreo, Centro San Miguel de Allende, Gto Phone: 415 154 7187 PANIO RELOX Calle Relox # 12, Centro San Miguel de Allende,Gto Phone: 415 152 1645

The Tuesday Market

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One business that’s survived all the ongoing changes at the Tuesday Market: Don Santos Tacos.
Don Santos earned its accolades with authentic Mexican food and you’ll get a bonus these days because it seems like the Tacos de Costillo are double stuffed with an overly generous amount of rib. The meat is cooked in a pile of intestines and chorizo and is so well flavored and tender that you can’t stop at just one. The peppery salsas have a kick that adds a whole other layer of flavor to the tacos. Don Santos Taco de Res is the best beef taco in San Miguel. Bring a $100 peso note and you’ll go home with a pocketful of change.
Although there are a lot of delicious, new tacos in SMA, this is one that’s always worth waiting in line for. It’s still reigns as one of the top tacos in town and another good reason to visit SMA’s most popular Tuesday market, which is slowly making a comeback. The market is also open on Sunday. Located in an unmarked, cobblestone alley in Centro, the other Don Santos is in San Antonio, at Clavel #8 off Refugio Sur. Opens at 6:00 PM – mas o menos.

Rustica - The #1 Breakfast Restaurant in San Miguel de Allende

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Here’s over a dozen reasons why we think Rustica is one of the best restaurants in the city; the #1 breakfast restaurant in SMA. We’ve learned one thing over the years - the next best thing to great food and service is one of Eduardo Perez Calvo’s hugs. You’ll find them all at Rustica! Rustica Salida a Celeya #34 Daily 8:00 AM to 5:00 PM Phone: 415 121 1406 Owner: Eduardo Perez Calvo Manager: Ram Ramirez

Chef David Jahnke Cooking Classes Lab

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Chef David Jahnke Cooking Classes Lab was created in March of 2018.
It’s pretty amazing that this super achiever, Chef David Jahnke, has accomplished so much in just 3 years when he was contemplating leaving his position as the head of the Gastronomy department at the University of University of Celaya to start his own business. Chef David Jahnke’s classes now rank 3rd out of over 700 cooking classes in Mexico and #1 in Guanajuato state.
His school never really changed during the Covid pandemic. The classes were held online instead of in person and a YouTube channel supplements Chef Jahnke’s learning program with additional free education for all of his students. With over 160 Virtual Classes under his belt, the chef has it down, using some pretty advanced technology and a Huawei cellphone with a Leica camera as it’s primary instrument.
Chef David Jahnke has developed over 500 recipes during the pandemic; more than enough to fill a cookbook and there are plenty of people in SMA who wish that he would. He teaches every type of ethnic cooking and conducts tours like the recent two day mushroom foraging classes with SMA mushroom authority, Arif Towns Alonso, at Rancho Calixto in Amealco, Mexico.
In person classes are filling up quickly although a change in the number of Covid cases may put classes back online again. Check with him for updates as he can easily shift from in-person to online classes. Either way, you’ll get one of the best culinary educations with Chef David Jahnke. There’s a reason why it’s one of the top cooking school in Mexico.
Best news: there will be a new, little sister in the kitchen with Itzayana soon and the Jahnke’s are excited to welcome her home. Chef David Jahnke Cooking Classes Lab Calle Del Tesoro 23, San Antonio, 37750 Phone: +52 744 136 3963 10:00 AM – 6:00 PM Daily except Sunday Email:david.jahnke@gmail.com

Pork Belly's Mac and Cheese

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We don’t consider Pork Belly’s Mac and Cheese a side dish; it’s one of the THE best dishes in SMA and we often eat it as a stand alone, especially since it’s made with Monterey and blue cheese and covered in this much bacon. And speaking of bacon, after eating every variety and thickness of bacon in SMA and Querétaro, we know Chef Erick Medina’s is another best; earning the top spot and selling at $300 pesos for 250 grams. Chef Medina brines a Pork belly in salt, brown sugar, Maple syrup, and cured salt for 7 days then dries and smokes it for 8 hours with Mesquite wood. A total labor of love, this dish tops our list of some of the best things to eat in SMA this year. Pork Belly Stirling Dickinson n. #10 Hours: 10 AM – 7:30 PM Closed Monday Delivery Chef: Erick Medina All safety protocols followed Health First certified by the city of SMA

Chef Marcela Bolano's Carrot Cake

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There’s only one dessert in San Miguel de Allende that takes the cake… Carrot cake, from the kitchens at Marsala, cocina con acentos. Marsala, cocina con acentos Calle del Dr Ignacio Hernandez Macias 48, Zona Centro, 37700 San Miguel de Allende, Gto. Hours: Monday – Thursday 1:00 PM – 9:00 PM Friday – Saturday 1:00 PM – 10:00 PM Sunday 11:00 AM – 3:00 PM Phone: 415 152 0080 Chef Marcela Bolano

Aquila

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When sharing a third round of all the usual favorites is still not enough, you know it’s time for a standing reservation. Some things are best repeated every week. Chef Arturo Sandoval is one of them. Aquila Jesus #3, Centro Daily: 1:00 PM - 10:00 PM Chef: Arturo Sandoval All safety protocols followed. Health First certified by the city of SMA.
The Menu: The salad: a mix of baby lettuce, Figs, sunflower seeds, feta cheese and a cognac reduction. $190 pesos. A pan of grilled Chorizo; perhaps the best Chorizo we’ve ever eaten. $150 pesos. Cecina stuffed with suckling pig; a most creative taco using Cecina as the shell. $290 pesos. Causa de Atun: Cause Limena wrapped in Tuna and Rock Shrimp. A typical entrée of Peruvian gastronomy, this version was made with yellow potato. Chef Sandoval is an expert in Peruvian-Japanese style cooking. $180 pesos Booth One: Like the Pump Room in Chicago, Aquila has a Booth One to the right of the entrance. Reserve it and you’ll not only feel like a VIP with a view of the whole place but it’s also the booth that’s located in the shade.

Arif Towns Alonso: The Mushroom King of SMA

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Five years ago this week, my friend, Preston Engebretson and I went foraging for mushrooms and hooked up with local expert, Arif Towns Alonso, who was selling mushrooms to most of the major chefs in SMA. It was the first mushroom tour that Arif did. He was scheduled to start up his tours after this dry run.
None of us knew what to expect so off we went to Santa Rosa de Lima - Preston with his book (American Nature Guide: Mushrooms and Other Fungi by Geoffrey Kibby) and his experience - he use to go hunting mushrooms with his father in Washington state - and me, with my camera, to document what we found under the guidance of Arif Towns Alonso, who showed us the ropes of not meeting an unfortunate end by sampling the wrong species. The one cardinal rule in mushroom hunting: If in doubt, throw it out. We got an abundance of mushrooms that trip and our two subsequent trips that followed. Arif Towns Alonso was officially in the mushroom tour business and mushroom lovers, curious foodies, fitness buffs and chefs were all eager to sign up for the all day hike. After all, the landscape around Santa Rosa de Lima was drop dead gorgeous (I wanted to stay in this little red house forever) and our trips yielded many varieties of mushrooms because the season was really good that year.
Our final trip resulted in a bounty of blue mushrooms; our ultimate prize, which we brought to the chefs in SMA to prepare. Here, chefs Magda Elisa Pablos and Ari Vasquez of El Vergel were thrilled with our find and we later took blues to Chef Marco Cruz and Pablo Nicacio, at Nomada cocina de interpretacion, where they prepared them in a delicious Mezcal sauce. Taking it one step further, I never looked at mushrooms the same way again. A variety of tours followed, to different locations each season, including trips with many of SMA’s best chefs. Five years later, we’re celebrating the fact that Arif has educated so many people about mushrooms. He also taught a class for Master Chef Mexico late last year.
Salud to the master who brings adventure and passion to everyone who is lucky enough to catch one of his tours including showing us the only bar in Santa Rosa de Lima where you can fill up an empty bottle with Mezcal for under $100 pesos; a must do after a long day of hunting for mushrooms.
Arif Towns Alonso says the season hasn’t ended yet. His last tour will be late September or early October this year. Connect with him on Facebook for further information on the grand tour that will close out the mushroom season.

The Magic of the All Night Fiesta: Late Night San Miguel de Allende

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Much like a chef,master mixologist,Uriel Jonathan Frausto Tabares of Bovine, is challenged to find the best local ingredients, the precise balance of flavors for every new drink recipe he creates including syrups and infusions he makes from scratch. He has a razor sharp sense of presentation - everything from temperature to garnish to glassware – in order to craft the perfect cocktail like his latest signature drink, La Costumbre, to promote the city of SMA.
The drink is made of Mezcal Lineal with natural pineapple juice, passion fruit syrup, sweet and sour, Licor 43 and an edible wafer with an image of Aldama Street; one of the most iconic streets of our city.
The cocktail culture in SMA is at a whole new level these days; one of the many reasons why Barra Mexico was held in SMA for the first time this past August. SMA has been lucky to attract a group of young mixologist with a passion and knowledge of ingredients and techniques like Mixologist, Fabiola Padilla, the owner of BEKEB Artisanal Mixology, who is internationally recognized for her restaurant collaborations in New York. She also represents a growing number of women who choose to make their profession working behind the bar.
SMA’s Mixologists have been busy crafting cocktail menus and one-of-a-kind drinks that locals and visitors love. Much to my delight, a 50 year long passion, the Brandy Alexander with Ice Cream, was recreated by Juan Manuel Mata at Marsala cocina con acentos just for the asking. Juan is now the head Mixologist at Kouyin, Chef Marcela Bolano’s new restaurant, located near Juarez Park. Whether it’s the attraction of a new bar, a rooftop with an incredible view, an eye-catching favorite with an appealing bar menu, a much-loved dive bar with a questionable history or a SMA institution like El Manatial, that’s been around for over 100 years, here's your ultimate guide to drinking late night in San Miguel de Allende. Just visiting? Make this your hit list. Just don’t blame us when you miss your morning wakeup call after being intoxicated by the magic of the all night fiesta. Salud! Drinks with a View…
Luna Rooftop Tapas Bar The Rosewood San Miguel de Allende Nemesio Diaz #11 Monday: 2:00 PM – 11:00 PM/ Tuesday – Sunday: 12:00 Noon – 10:00 PM If you only have one night in town, this is your experience. The magic: a 360 degree view of SMA; still the best in the city. Choose from a long list of cocktails that make for a memorable tasting, created by the collaborative mixology team at Rosewood: Angel Castaneda, Miguel Guevara and Erick Andrew. The bar menu was produced by Executive Chef, Vincent Wallez, and includes some pretty fabulous pizzas. Make a reservation in season by calling 415 152 9700.
Anonimo Rooftop Hotel Selina Cuna de Allende #11 Daily: 1:00 PM – 11:30 PM This bar has multiple gorgeous views of the city. No matter where you land, you’ll get a stunning look at SMA. Head Mixologist, Kevin Cesar Romero, is in the house, mixing your favorite fall cocktails. Chef Abel Hernandez, a newcomer to SMA from Mexico City, created three of Mexico City’s most popular restaurants so don’t expect this one to be any different. It’s a long climb to the top but well worth the vistas once you get there. Below the bar is an outdoor cinema where movies are shown every night at 7:30 PM; another great spot to take a drink. Call 415 137 7256.
Atrio Cuna de Allende #3 Daily 1:00 PM – 10:30 PM You get in your face views of the Parroquia amid some of the most elegant surroundings in town. We love this bar so much, we call it our second home. A cold glass of Wente Chardonnay will make things pretty perfect so check in with Abraham or Tono when you arrive. The bar menu was created by Chef Arturo Sandoval; one of the best chefs in SMA and has a wide variety of options for late night grazing. Reservations suggested; especially on the weekends. Call 415 688 1405.
Terraza La Dona San Francisco #32 Open: 1:00 PM – 10:00 PM Monday - Wednesday 1:00 PM – 11:30 PM Thursday – Saturday 1:00 PM – 9:00 PM Terraza La Dona is one of the top rooftops in SMA. This beautiful spot set the standard when it comes to mixing music and spirits. A regular schedule of shows includes local favorite, the fabulous Lady Zen. DJ’s spin your favorite tunes every Thursday – Sunday. Late night eating at its finest, don’t miss Chef Juan Manuel Galvan Lopez’s bar bites, including the original recipe of grilled cauliflower; an easy four way split and that’s just scratching the surface. Check with Fabian for a list of drink specialties and belly up to the bar for Happy Hour: 1x1 on Friday and Saturday from 7:00 PM – 8:00 PM. There’s another great view waiting so go early to get the best seat in the house. Call 415 688 3131.
La Unica Sollano #14 1:00 PM – 12:00 Midnight The magnificent view from the terrace is the other side of the Parroquia, where you’re surrounded by blooming gardens. Don’t miss the specialty desserts; all of them remarkable. If you love chocolate, order a Cordelion and take it with a double shot of Kahula for the maximum pleasure. Mixologist, Alfredo Garcia, has created a number of craft cocktails you’ll not want to miss. Who needs a beach when you can get a classic Pina Colada with a view like this? Ask for the cocktail of the day; remarkable spirits with a creative blend of ingredients to start off your happiest hour ever. Call 415 688 1393.
La Azotea Umaran #3 Daily: 12:00 Noon – 10:00 PM Manager: Teru Sunshine + Bougainvilleas are a PX for a Chardonnay with supreme floral notes. We take ours with a sunset view; one of the best pairings in town. A texturally adventurous bite, their signature Jicama Taco is SMA’s most famous for over 16 years. The shell is a thin slice of Jicama that’s topped with lightly breaded shrimp, chipotle mayo and a tamarind sauce. The fried leek finish puts this taco in a class by itself. La Azotea gets our vote for the most popular bar in the city. Watch the birds in flight at the back bar during sunset. Call 415 152 8265.
Zumo Quebrada #93 Thursday – Saturday 1:00 PM – 11:00 PM (Wednesdays starting September 15/Sunday Brunch starting September 15 : 10:00 AM – 3:00 PM A new level will open up October 1st – The Luxe Sky Bar. Check out this amazing view of SMA, presented by Chef/Owner, Stewart Haverlack. The stylish, new lounge will provide an almost 360 degree view of the entire city. It’s certain to be the best addition to the city’s long list of fabulous rooftops, hosting an in- house DJ every Thursday – Sunday. Mixologist Alexis Chavez will see you through the Happy Hour from 4:00 PM – 6:00 PM on Thursday and Friday. After September 15, Zumo will also be open Wednesdays. Call 415 152 0489.
Trazo 1810 Hidalgo #8 8:00 AM – 12:30 PM/Sunday 9:00 AM – 2:00 PM Brunch There are multiple levels of terraces with magnificent views of Centro, especially from the upper terrace where you can also catch a sundown glass of bubbly. Esteban Rivera (“El Abuelo”) is the Mixologist in-house and prepares eclectic cocktails using premium, Mexican spirits. Trazo 1810 gets our vote as one of the most beautiful bars in the city. Call 415 121 3501.
BEKEB Artisanal Mixology Mesones 14 Thursday and Sunday 3:00 PM – 11:00 PM Friday and Saturday 3:00 PM – 12:00 Midnight You’ll hear nothing but great things about Owner/Mixologist Fabiola Padilla, who’s internationally recognized for her restaurant collaborations in New York City. All of her cocktails are simple and natural; made from plants, roots and flowers that are mixed with Mexican, agave spirits: different Tequilas, Mezcals, and Bacanoras. To get a peek at the gorgeous views, you’ll want to put this one on your list. It’s the ultimate experience of SMA mixology at its absolute finest. Call 415 688 1355. Photos:BEKEB
Blind Jaguar Sollano and Dávalos 14, Centro. Enter from La Unica Friday and Saturday 1:00 PM – 10:00 PM/ Sunday 11:00 AM – 7:00 PM Owners: Martin and Joaquin The bar is located behind a hidden door inside another restaurant, La Unica. The owners are from Tulum and have put all the finishing touches on in true SMA style including a central pool filled with magnificent flowers. The crowd is young but we also found families and grandmothers gathered to take in the spectacular view of the Parroquia. Mixologist Rafael Velez Leal has a long list of cocktail options; all of them top notch. Try the house Paloma or a Xaman Sour – the perfect combination of sweet, sour, spicy and smoky.
Antonia Bistro San Francisco 57 Daily 2:00 PM – 11:00 PM except Saturday – Sunday: 10:00 AM – 11:00 PM Perched on top of the Hotel Boutique El Palomar, I have to admit, a cocktail here is pretty perfect; a feast for the eyes as well as the taste buds. You’ll want to grab the high, center table to catch the brilliant colors of a SMA sunset; it’s nothing short of incredible. Antonia Bistro SMA has the Apellation of Origin drinks made from agave spirits; Pox "Siglo Cero" from Chiapas, Sotol "Coyote" from Chihapas, Bacanora "Pascola" from Sonora and Raicilla "Hacienda el Divisadero" from Jalisco. Located up the hill, it’s just 5 minutes from SMA’s main square. Call 415 152 7295.
Kôuyīn Asian Eatery Apapacho Hotel Bajada del Chorro 11 esq. Recreo, Centro. Hours: Wednesday to Monday / 2 - 10 PM Chef: Marcela Bolano Our new favorite restaurant/bar in SMA, you get a bird’s eye view of the other side of Centro. The head mixologist, Juaraz Park, Juan Manuel Mata, is gaining quite a following. Reports have it that his creative Asian cocktails are some of the best in town. We also have it from an inside source that he makes a killer Martini. If there’s one Mixologist in town to keep an eye on, Juan Manuel is it. Call 415 154 9762.Photo:Kôuyīn Asian Eatery Don’t miss some of our other favorites…
The Bar at the R Sollano #16 Wednesday – Saturday 6:00 PM – 11:00 PM Savor every element of this bar because owner, Chef Donnie Masterton, put his magic touch on another late night favorite. It’s our #1 bar in the city for so many reasons, starting with the renowned DJ’s on the late night track including the chef himself, who is also a DJ. A small fireplace provides the perfect place for cold weather drinking. Beto Martintz, the head bartender, can help you choose from a growing selection of cocktails and spirits. We love the affordable and delicious Asian small plates and sushi; some of the best in town. WhatsApp: 415 113 5107.
Marsala, cocina con acentos Hernandez Macias 48 Zona Centro, 37700 San Miguel de Allende, Gto. Hours:Friday – Saturday 1:00 PM – 10:00 PM/ Sunday 11:00 AM – 3:00 PM/ Monday – Thursday 1:00 PM – 9:00 PM Going home early is never an option so come by for a house Mezcal, an unofficial Friday Sobramesa or a fun, nonstop conversation with the girls; some of the real reason why this is one of the best places in SMA for cocktails. And notice we made that plural! Call 415 152 0080.
San Mezcal Recreo #88 Bar: Wednesday – Saturday 5:00 PM –11:00 PM Cash only cocktails Kitchen: TBD September This place always delivers a good time. Reopening in September or early October, Master Mezcalier, Julio Hernandez heads up the bar and Jason Maloff, from the original Café Rama, joins the new team in the kitchen. The menu has changed but rumor has it from the source that the BLT and Pastor Fries will stay. This bar is a stop on the SMA Mezcal tour. With over 100 brands of Mezcals to pick from, where else do you really need to go tonight? Call 415 121 1422.
Hercules Beer Bar Districo Soma Estacion del Ferrocarril – Lupita #2 San Miguel de Allende 37759 Phone: 415 150 1541 Sunday – Wednesday: 11:00 AM – 6:00 PM Thursday – Saturday: 11:00 AM – 8:00 PM Hercules Beer owns a large Ceveceria and beer garden in the center of Queretaro and have opened up this tiny bar inside Districo Soma, a new shopping mall in SMA. Ask for Daniel, the star of the bar, who will walk you through a long list of their home brews. The beer bottle is slowly dying because Hercules packaging is as amazing as the cold brew inside and they make us want to line up for every new release. This is a great place to start; it’s one of the best afternoon bars in the city.
Mui Ramen Bar Aldama #53 Tuesday – Sunday 1:00 PM – 11:00 PM/Closed Monday Chef: Paul Bentley Mixologist/Manager: Jon Vas Our new favorite hideaway, you’ll love the cocktail menu at Mui Ramen Bar; many of the drinks are made with Sake. It has an outstanding Asian menu created by Hotel Matilda’s chef, Paul Bentley. The rooftop patio is upstairs and hidden among the trees making it totally possible to go into hiding for hours on end. We give the bar an added star as the service here is as near to perfect as it gets. Call 415 152 1015.
Olivia’s Bar Rooftop at Casa No Name Hernandez Macias #52 Tuesday – Thursday: 2:00 PM - 10:00 PM/Friday – Saturday: 1:00 PM - 10:00 PM/ Sunday: 1:00 PM - 6:00 PM How to pull off a solo bar trip? This is the place to try it. This cozy rooftop serves one of the best Martini’s in town. It’s a great place to take cover when you need a break from the nightlife but still want a night-time high. Here, you’re in your own little world; call it a safe haven from the tourist mayhem just a few blocks away. Sometimes we love peace and quiet and Olivia’s has got them both. Call 415 152 1768.
Bovine Canal #16 Tuesday 7:00 PM – 11:00 PM/ Wed – Sunday 1:00 PM – 11:00 PM Raise your glass to one of the hottest places in the city. Bovine is helmed by power duo, Bruce James and Chef Paul Bentley. With the best Mixologist behind the bar, Uriel Jonathan Frausto Tabares, who else do you need tonight? You can’t go wrong with this bar; it looks every inch of London, Miami or NY City. Smoked oysters are golden for late night snacking. Dress to impress. The newly remodeled patio is a great spot to take in the ultimate cocktail experience. Call 415 121 6787. Drink Photo: Bovine.
The Blue Bar at Belmond Casa de Sierra Nevada Hospicio #35 Daily: Noon – 10:30 PM Throughout SMA, there are countless bars that we could just curl up in and never leave. This is one of them. Gerardo Luna, will make you feel at home. He has a long list of prime cocktails and wines to choose from. The Blue and White stenciled walls are a signature mark for this perfect hide-away if you want to disappear for an hour or two. A great place to rendezvous with your number one. Ask about the intimate dinner for two downstairs; the most romantic spot in SMA. Call 415 152 7040. Photo: Casa de Sierra Nevada
The Monkey Bar Aldama #53 Daily: 1:00 PM – 10:00 PM We don’t just like this bar – we LOVE it! The Money Bar at Hotel Matilda is the perfect place to celebrate SMA in the new normal; it’s outside, poolside and teeny tiny – there are five bar stools. You can reach across the bar and practically touch the back wall, it’s that cozy. Some additional seating spills into Moxi, Matilda’s flagship restaurant. The smallest bar in SMA has some of the biggest offerings when it comes to spirits and service. We think good things come in small packages these days - the Monkey Bar at Hotel Matilda is it! Call 415 152 1015.
Casa Dragones Tasting Room Relox 18 in Doce 18 Concept House By Appointment Home is historic SMA to this small batch tequila producer who hand crafts superior sipping tequilas to absolute perfection one bottle at a time. Book your exclusive, tasting experience at the private, six-seat bar located in the historic Doce 18. Pick up a custom engraved bottle; a great gift for who else but you! https://casadragones.com.mx/en/tequila-tasting-experiences/
1826 Tequila Bar at Rosewood San Miguel de Allende Nemesio Diaz #11 Daily: Noon – 10:00 PM You’ll enjoy a delicious, Pacific Rim menu while pairing it with an artisanal cocktail, made to order. You can book a tasting for four or more if you’re interested in trying their long line of premium brands. One of the most beautiful bars in SMA is equally as cozy. If you're planning a romantic night, pull out all the stops and come here. Home sweet home, this is one bar you’ll want to stay at once you’ve settled in. Call 415 152 9700. Restaurant Photo:1826 Tequila Bar at Rosewood San Miguel de Allende
Baradero Cuban Cigar Bar Cuadrante #30 Daily 2:00 PM – 10:30 PM/Closed Monday and Tuesday Baradero is one of the best secrets in SMA; if you love Cuban music, this is your place. Slip on your dancing shoes and get lost in the music of Son Candela. More intoxicating than the music and the booze is your guaranteed anonymity. This is one of our favorite new bars for music. Call 415 688 3074.
La Mezcaleria Correo #47-A Daily: 9:00 AM – 11:00 PM/Closes Sunday 4:00 PM The original Mezcal bar in SMA, try one of their intoxicating Mezcal Margaritas; we love the Pepino and Cilantro or drink it straight up with a slice of orange. You can also order an Aguamiel or a Pulque if you’re into something more authentic to sip on the patio. The roasted crickets with lime and chilies are a must for late night snack. Now serving breakfast, this bar opens at 9:00 AM. Call 415 121 5354.
El Manantial Barranca #78 Daily: 1:00 PM – 11:30 PM One of the oldest and most popular spots in San Miguel was founded in 1920 as a men’s cantina. You can also get Chamorro here, along with delicious seafood ceviche and tacos. It’s nearly always packed; a testament to the great Mexican food and drinks. Try a Ginger Margarita; another SMA classic. El Manantial celebrated its 100 year anniversary this past year (1920-2020) but the real reason we like it is that it’s one of the few bars in town that's got it all, including mainly locals. Call 415 110 0007.
La Hija del Manantial Correo #14 Daily: 9:00 AM – 10:00 PM/Tuesday 1:00 PM – 10:00 PM El Manantial’s sister bar, La Hija del Manantial, has the best ambiance in the city. Chamorro Tacos with blue corn tortillas is one of Chef Aidee Prado’s specialties. The gourmet cantina is conveniently located in town, just a few steps from the Jardin. Our favorite spot is one of the two high tables in the window where the people watching, both indoors and out, is the best in SMA. Live Jazz on Tuesday at 7:30 PM. No Cover. Call 415 111 7431.
Mama Mia Ignacio Hernandez Macias #91 Daily 8:00 AM – 10:00 PM Adal Garcia Moreno, the head bartender at Mama Mia's, once told us that Mama Mia’s makes the best Margarita in town and we only needed a sip of this gigantic drink to be convinced. One of these drinks is an experience; two of them, a party. They’re really 2 for 1, just all in the same glass. If you’re hungry, try the Arrachera Burger. Live music keeps the party going late night. It’s one of the busiest bars in the city. Everyone has great bar stories and this one place you’ll make them. Call 415 152 2063.
Bacco Ristorante Bar Herandez Macias #59 1:00 PM – 10:30 PM/Sunday 1:00 PM – 6:00 PM/ Closed Monday If this is Sunday, it must be Home Sweet Home Bacco. The owner, Ricardo Sautto, is usually in the house to greet you. Carlos is one of the best bartenders in town. This old world setting, which opened in 1953, serves up great food and drink with portions that are enormous. The enchanting patio is lit up at night like Christmas so if you’re looking for a spot with a lot of locals, this is your place. Hotel Sautto is cool because it's not trying to be anything else. Call 415 154 5613. Great Bars in Centro…
Roagi Doce 18 Concept House Relox 18 Monday-Tuesday-Wednesday- Sunday 12:00 PM – 8:00 PM Thursday – Friday-Saturday 12:00 PM – 10:00 PM While you’re wandering around beautiful Doce 18 Concept House, stop for a cocktail at Roagi, a new bar in Doce 18, that hosts a list of guest bartenders every month and mixes one of the best cocktails called, what else, BREAKFAST: Bulleit Bourbon, coffee fatwash, oolong, amarena and Ganache 85%. This is one place where you’ll never get bored with the menu; it changes up often and currently offers three seasonal cocktails for fall: The Auyama, the Origen Lejano and the Autumn Chronicles. Call 415 152 1434. Photo by Roagi.
Centanni Canal 34 Hours: 1:00 PM – 12:30 PM Sunday closes 10:00 PM 415 154 8044 Centanni boasts a long list of live music performances including local singer, Johnny Favorite, in the house on Wednesdays for some late night fun. Live bands play Friday and Saturday nights. Thursday is Ladies Night with salsa music, free drinks and no cover. On Tuesdays, 2x1 pizzas are a delicious deal. Much to the delight of half the city, Wilson is in the house. You think you need something and well, it turns out you don’t – you already have it. Without a doubt, Wilson is best magician in the city. Call 415 154 8044.
Berlin Umaran #19 Daily: 5:00 PM – 11:00 PM/Closed Sunday We’re crazy about Berlin’s fish tacos; made with catfish, lightly breaded and served with a side of chipotle mayo. You have to sit at the bar and order these; they’re not on the menu. Be there when they open just to get a seat; the bar is always crowded. A new rooftop is a work in progress and will open soon. A healthy pour and great food make this bar one of the best spots in the city. Now open for lunch. Go for the longest Happy Hour we know: 1:00 PM – 7:00 PM. Call 415 154 9432.
Bella Italia Guadalupe Portal 12, Centro Sunday – Thursday: Noon – 10:00 PM Friday – Saturday: Noon – 11:00 PM Owner: Paolo Vizzotto From owner, Paolo Vizzotto, if Ernest Hemingway were to pick a perfect place to waste away the afternoon, Bella Italia would be it. Call 415 154 6758.
Quince Cuna de Allende #15 Sunday – Monday: 10:00 AM – 9:00 PM/Tuesday closed/Wednesday – Thursday: 1:00 PM – 10:45 PM/Friday – Saturday: 1:00 PM – Midnight With a rolling drink cart, you don’t have to sit at the bar to catch the Parroquia view; it’s right across the street. Chef Gonzalo Martinez has designed the perfect nibbling menu that includes sushi and dumplings. There are 6 variations of Bloody Mary’s and much to the delight of every tequila lover, a flight of Casa Dragones. We go in late afternoon, when you can still have a conversation and enjoy the sunset vistas. Order a house Margarita - a mix of Don Julio blanco, cucumber, lemon, pineapple, green chili and serrano chile; one of the best in SMA.
Centro Bar SMA Portal Allende #2 Daily: 9:00 AM – 12:00 Midnight Many of SMA’s Mariachi groups play at this bar in the evening. Get out your list of tunes and prepare to settle in; oft times until closing. It’s one of the best spots in town to people watch. Try a Mojito Aldama with Absolut Pears and red fruit. Want to go another round? Come back in the morning for a strong pot of coffee while SMA wakes up; it’s guaranteed to be the morning after highlight you’ll not soon forget. Call 415 152 8493.
Hanks Hidalgo 12 12:00 AM – 12:00 Midnight/Saturday-Sunday to 1:00 AM A legendary New Orleans style happy hour for serious drinkers, take your pick from a parade of drinks – there’s really no wrong choice during happy hour. How to approach a post-drink pickup? Ask the bartender if you’re rusty; there’s a bit of mischief if that’s what you’re really after. Most of us are into Happy Hour; it goes from 5:00 – 8:00 PM. Monday drink 2x1 Mojitos. There’s a special Taco Tuesday with Margaritas. Come on Wednesday for 2X1 Martinis and Hurricane Thursday rounds out the week. Always crowded, go early if you want to get a seat. Call 415 152 2645.
La Plancha Jesus and Quadrante Wednesday – Sunday 2:00 PM – 10:00 PM A great dive bar doesn’t care about what you want so don’t even try to order a Lemon Drop or a martini. Inexpensive food and drink and Mariachi music are the main draws here and it’s also got a jukebox. Get your party on because who needs more if you’re painting the town tonight?
La Coronela Cantina Bar San Francisco #2 Opens: 2:00 PM Surfacing from the Golden Years of Mexican cinema, this is a regular stop for many of the Mariachi groups that play in the Jardin. Larger than it looks from the outside, we recently caught up with friends who were tipping a well deserved shot of Mezcal in the early afternoon. It’s a great way to escape the zany vibe of SMA in the wee hours of morning if you decide it’s still too early to go home …and it is you know? Late night any night is where it’s at in SMA, especially with the Jardin nearby. Call 415 152 5032. Another Nightcap, Por Favor…
La Cucaracha Zacateros 20, Centro Opens: 10:30ish PM Closes: 3:00 – 4:00 AM La Cucaracha opened in 1947; once called one of the 10 best bars in the world by Esquire magazine. Located on Zacateros, it’s a mix of locals with foreigners and national tourists on the weekends. You wouldn’t find any artisanal beers here and it’s by no means SMA glamorous, but you can’t leave town without going once; that’s if you’re lucky enough to get in. With its tough drinking reputation, it’s had its share of all stars, writers and artists over the years, but for the most part, it’s a rite of passage that will probably leave you sleeping it off the next morning. Don’t plan La Cucaracha if you have a 3:00 AM shuttle to the airport but you’re timing for closing the bar down may be pretty close to perfect.
Cantina El Gato Negro Mesones #12 Open: 11:00 AM Enjoy a taste of the quintessential drink, Tequila, at one of the oldest (1922) cantinas in SMA. Graffiti murals include Marilyn Monroe, The Beatles and The Doors. It’s dark and narrow inside but climb the stairs to the small, rooftop terrace and you’ll see the light of day. Chat with the bartender for a quick lesson on the history. El Gato Negro vies with La Cucaracha for the title of the most famous cantina in SMA. You be the judge; we’ve tried them both and refuse to break the tie.
Bar San Miguel Insurgentes #67 2:00 PM – 2:00 AM An all night crawl isn’t really one until you’ve done Bar San Miguel. Since 1957, this is the kind of place where anything can happen. Maybe that's why you love it in the first place; especially after midnight when practically everything else is closed. The positive: Andy’s Taco cart is right up the street and Tacos Al Pastor is the ultimate treat when you’ve been on an all night binge and you’re starting to see stars at 2:00 AM. Photo: Claudia Bo Here’s What’s New:
TIGA Tiki Bar Pila Seca #2 Daily 2:00 PM – 10:00 PM Clandestino Rooftop Recreo #34 Daily 2:00 PM – 10:00 PM Mike Espinosa has earned his place as one of the top Mixologists in SMA so either of these new bars are a sure bet for a great round of drinks. An expert on the art of cocktail, Mike built his talents by managing some of San Miguel’s best bars; most recently The Monkey Bar in Hotel Matilda.Photo: TIGA Tiki Bar
Eustolia Correo #34 Daily 1:00 PM – 1:00 AM except Sunday 10:00 AM – 8:00 PM Take a peek at this new spot, created by first time restaurant owners, Grecia and Kyara Trejo and managed by Mexico City transplant, Griselda Contreras. Gerardo Cortes, the head Mixologist, has a brand new list of cocktails waiting for you, including the Ceremonia Maya made with Pox. One of our favorite singers, Johnny Favorite, plays on Thursday nights.Photo:Eustolia
Santo Cuviso Formerly Don Taco Tequila Hernandez Macias #83 Dailly 2:00 PM – 10:00 PM. Owner Alain Mares and Santo Cuviso made a coop agreement "bar takeover" and named the bar Santo Cuviso Cocktail bar. On the other side of this agreement is Gunther Maier, a well known photographer, who photographed the Chef series for Claroscuro: The Art of Gastronomy project last year. For those of you who didn’t get to view his amazing collection,some of them will be hanging in the bar; a hallowed spot among the extensive collection of spirits including Santa Cuviso Bacanora, produced by Gunther Maier’s company. Sotols will also be at the bar, produced by Casa Santeros. With a prime location on Hernandez Macias and one of the few, all Vegan menus in town, this bar is sure gain a large following of both locals and tourists alike.
The morning after… Photos:Santa Maciza We can’t think of a better morning after food than Carnitas so wander up the hill – the walk will do you good - to a delightful new restaurant, Santa Maciza, at the corner of Barranca and Montes de Oca, that’s owned by Tito Martinez of La Unica and dishes out some of the best hangover medicine around. There’s nothing better than a large plate of carnita tacos with salsa verde to get you up for another night on the town. That’s right, the list is long, and you’ve got exactly 44 more to go.
The Best Cocktail in SMA? The Vesper Martini by Mixologist, Gabrile Avila, who is now in Valle de Guadalupe. Tito’s handmade craft Vodka Bombay Gin Dolin Blanc French Vermouth Basil Smash Iced Shaken not stirred 3 Olives Straight up Beautiful glass It's Friday. ♥ Life is good!

RAICES SMA

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Close your eyes and you’ll swear RAICES SMA was dropped into the middle of SMA straight from Oaxaca; it’s got all the markings. The food is authentically Mexican, prepared by a chef who has over 25 years of experience cooking in Mexico.
We’ve known Chef Vanessa Romero since she came to SMA eight years ago and was on the food festival fast track when we met her. She was born in Mexico City and was educated at the Higher College of Gastronomy and the International School of Tourism. For 18 years she cooked for ministers and judges of the courts in Mexico City. Many of us knew her when she owned Boado del Cielo in Mercado Sano; cooking international, healthy foods. We think Chef Vanessa Romero has finally found her niche, like she did when she was growing up and spending most of her time in her grandmother’s kitchen. The cooking comes naturally - the recipes are in her head and she could cook them all with her eyes closed.
Try her stuffed Chilaquiles: fresh corn dough with pressed pork rinds, morita sauce, local cheese, sour cream, pickled onions and black chili ash. This is an original recipe; you wouldn’t find them cooked like this any place else in SMA.
Ice cream for breakfast? Por supuesto! This Marzipan artisan ice cream with seasonal fruit was the perfect finish to one of the best breakfast meals we’ve had in SMA this year.
RAICES SMA Salida a Celaya, Sin Nombre, 37700 San Miguel de Allende, Gto/ Directly across the street from the Mobil station Daily: 9:00 AM – 5:00 PM Phone: 415 121 8532 Chef: Vanessa Romero Partner: Omar Campana, Sushi Gami All safety protocols followed. Masks required/removed for photographs and consumption Health First certified by the city of SMA
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